Light bars
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 164
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From: yuba city, ca
Light bars
Hello all. Been a while since I’ve been on here. Got a question about a light bar install. I’m looking to install an led light bar on my front bumper and two smaller lights in the rear for backing. Also a set of LMC led headlights and tail lights. Do i need to upgrade my battery and charge system to handle the extra load? Or is it a simple install? Not sure if the size of my alternator off hand but truck is a 1996 f250 HD with a 460. Ext cab. Thanks.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 338
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LED lights draw very little power compared to incandescent bulbs, your factory electrical system should be fine. I recommend wiring them to separate switches (rather than high beam/reverse lights) so you don't risk blinding someone while backing up at Walmart.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 164
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From: yuba city, ca
Of course. That’s what I was thinking. Separate switches. Any recommendations for a front light bar?
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
I prefer the KISS method. Change out factory incandescent back up builds for LED bulbs and I add aux LED light to the OEM harness. That way you never forget to turn them off and are on every time when you back up.
As for the front light bar. Is it going to be a flood or spot? I would alway use a relay and have the headlight circuit trigger it and 12volt battery to feed it.
Flood pattern you want on the low beams, sport beam you want on the high beams.
While you are up front get a relay harness for the headlights. This drastically cuts down on the draw thru the already overworked headlight switch and gets you full battery voltage to the headlight bulbs
As for the front light bar. Is it going to be a flood or spot? I would alway use a relay and have the headlight circuit trigger it and 12volt battery to feed it.
Flood pattern you want on the low beams, sport beam you want on the high beams.
While you are up front get a relay harness for the headlights. This drastically cuts down on the draw thru the already overworked headlight switch and gets you full battery voltage to the headlight bulbs
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: yuba city, ca
I prefer the KISS method. Change out factory incandescent back up builds for LED bulbs and I add aux LED light to the OEM harness. That way you never forget to turn them off and are on every time when you back up.
As for the front light bar. Is it going to be a flood or spot? I would alway use a relay and have the headlight circuit trigger it and 12volt battery to feed it.
Flood pattern you want on the low beams, sport beam you want on the high beams.
While you are up front get a relay harness for the headlights. This drastically cuts down on the draw thru the already overworked headlight switch and gets you full battery voltage to the headlight bulbs
As for the front light bar. Is it going to be a flood or spot? I would alway use a relay and have the headlight circuit trigger it and 12volt battery to feed it.
Flood pattern you want on the low beams, sport beam you want on the high beams.
While you are up front get a relay harness for the headlights. This drastically cuts down on the draw thru the already overworked headlight switch and gets you full battery voltage to the headlight bulbs
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
Are you implying that he run the light bar with his low beams? I would keep the light bars separate from the factory lights, for the sake of oncoming traffic.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
it depends on the light bar. Some are a flood pattern with are totally acceptable to run with the low beams(just like fog lights)
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
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From: Gilbert, PA
No, it is specific to your headlight bulbs
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2015
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Personally, I would appreciate it if people would save their fog lights for when it's (gasp) foggy. They are often aimed haphazardly, and a lot of the aftermarket fog lights are brighter than the OEM low beams.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
It all comes out to the end user. When used correctly, there is nothing wrong when fog lights or driving lights are used
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 329
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From: Dallas, TX
No upgrades are necessary. I'm not cool enough to run light bars, but my fog lights, mini LEDs, and KCs are run just fine with no upgrades to the electrical system. They are powered from the battery to a main breaker that feeds a power distribution block that feeds into a separate relay box. Each relay feeds each light pair. Switches in the cab trigger the relays that power the lights. And since they're LEDs, there's practically no power drain. The KCs are 100w halogens, so those put the most draw on the system. Eventually they'll get upgraded to LED as well...
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