1989 F150 5.8L Alternator Amperage Question
#1
1989 F150 5.8L Alternator Amperage Question
Hello, I am working on the above truck as the alternator has pooped the bed. Only reading battery voltage at the battery while running. I am not sure of the amps of the alternator. Truck has 72K and I believe the alternator is original.
My questions are
1. How can I tell what the amps of the alternator in it now are?
2. There is an electric plow (Meyers) on the truck and I am thinking I should upgrade the alternator. What I see online are some with internal and some with external regulators. Can I go higher amperage with just a bolt in swap or sould I need to do some wiring changes?
Thanks for your help!
My questions are
1. How can I tell what the amps of the alternator in it now are?
2. There is an electric plow (Meyers) on the truck and I am thinking I should upgrade the alternator. What I see online are some with internal and some with external regulators. Can I go higher amperage with just a bolt in swap or sould I need to do some wiring changes?
Thanks for your help!
#3
Spray threads down with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster or favorite recipe a couple few times a day and hammer it hard to shock the fastener, it will wick into threads better. After a day or two or three it should be a lot better. Whatever alternator decision do yourself a favor and get brand new heavy duty ground and starter battery cables of sufficient gauge, to frame, everything, from your friendly tractor supply store. Old corroded cables will cripple any alternator output no matter how many amps, good cables mean you'll get all the juice you paid for.
#4
Thanks for the advice! I was hoping to get it together before a few days! I have tried a pretty powerful Snap on Impact wrench on it, no love. I feel like the breaker bar is twisting it as the threads aren't moving on the exposed end. What happens if I break it? How difficult is it to get the bracket out from behind it? Assume I have any tool I might need including heat (which I'd like to avoid) at my disposal
#6
Well hopefully it won't take that long. But it really helps to give it some time to work and soak through, esp. if it's rusty. Take your time. If it's your daily driver, well that may be a problem. Test out your battery too, get it cleaned up, tray &c, put it on a charger, maybe think about replacing that too if it's getting more than 4 or 5 years on in age. Like I was sayin', get good heavy cables. The generic replacement cables in the blister pacs are crappy, they may work OK for a small 4 or 6 cylinder car but they are not enough for a truck, especially with a plow. Really have to make sure the engine grounds and frame connections are 100%, and the alternator itself & brackets are clean and tight to the block itself with no grease or paint.
#7
At the very least replace the connector that goes to the battery. There is a Ford TSB on the subject. Failure to do so may result in triggering a fire due to poor connection. An Achilles heal of the alternator interface design.
Another design flaw is the lack of output at idle/low engine RPMs.Highly suggest you upgrade that weakling 65 amp 2G for a factory 130 amp 3G. Several threads on the topic on this forum and dozens of others. Be done with that boat anchor/fire prone 2G alternator once and for all.
Another design flaw is the lack of output at idle/low engine RPMs.Highly suggest you upgrade that weakling 65 amp 2G for a factory 130 amp 3G. Several threads on the topic on this forum and dozens of others. Be done with that boat anchor/fire prone 2G alternator once and for all.
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