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I have a level kit. It's call an 11K bumper pull toy hauler. Mine looks great loaded or unloaded.
The logic of having to add air bags to account for the sag on a leveled truck is silly. That's like taking one pill because the other one makes you feel funny. The potential for alignment problems, death wobble, etc seem to go up when the suspension gets modified.
I'm usually not one to mod a suspension unless it for a specific function. BUT I notice anytime I slow down or stop in the rain there is a ton of water that comes off the roof and across the windshield. Will levelling the truck keep that from happening or is it just something to get used to on these trucks? even a light drizzle and it will collect enough to cycle the wipers at each stop.
I'm actually considering a levelling kit to fix that.
LOL. No. What you are experiencing is Newton's 3 laws of physics.
You're worried about rain water inevitably coming forward under breaking. I don't mind that, it's the three or four inches of snow on the roof that bother me when I break. You'd need some serious rake to prevent it.
Hey guys first post here although I have been on this site for a long time. I thought I would throw in a few thoughts on this subject from experience. I think the leveled trucks look fantastic but also understand the reason the trucks have a rake from the factory for the intended purpose of towing. I am also 55 years old and have had more trucks than I can remember over the years in various stages of aftermarket adds lifts and tires etc. I recently just changed trucks and moved into a 2018 F-250 6.7 that is a loaded up XLT. I generally always go for XLT trim over the Lariat because I use my truck to hunt out of and the interior is going to be covered up anyway. I had a 2016 F-350 6.7 that I installed a Carli 2.5 complete kit on. A very expensive option to level a truck but also a usable kit not just a puck placed on top of a spring. I had a new Track Bar and brake line relocation brackets and also Fox shocks. The Carli track bar is massive. Which brings up the first small issue. Part of the subframe under the engine is a rough casting from Ford on these year trucks. Because of the increase in the overall size of the track bar an area on the front had to be ground down to allow the travel of the bar itself. It was a relatively easy fix but a little unnerving grinding anything on the bottom of the truck. Carli was aware of it and said some need it some don't. But to get to what I consider being the biggest thing in doing this with any of these trucks is getting the Caster right. I am originally from Michigan and have a lot of friends who work for Ford so at times I can get inside to get better answers than what you would get at a dealership service dept. All these Ford trucks have what they would consider a minimal Caster issue due to the front end set up. Some better than others for certain. My 2016 was not one of the better ones. No matter what we tried it was very hard to get it above 3 degrees after the level was installed and I finally found someone here in Colorado that had a remote clue about front ends.You have limited amount of degrees available in Caster Cams and when your at the end your done with what you will be able to get. And when your Caster is off the truck will drive straight but it's just as loose as all get up.They would put it on the rack and get it aligned and just say it was fine. I should add I was running Toyo AT 2s extremes that were 35" on Method wheels. A fantastic tire by the way. So after about 3 months of trying to find qualified people to get the front right and also talking to both Carli and Toyo I was able to get the truck running very good and finally tightened the front end up as good as it was going to get based on my original Caster issue to begin with. Air pressure corrections had a lot do do with the way the truck drove out also. I ran 50 in the front and 45 in the rears always to get the warning light on and also the chime at start up. Anyway, sorry for the long post but I am not doing a thing to the current truck this time around. I am firmly of the belief that whatever you do to the truck there is a counter reaction in another way. I love seeing any of the trucks here locally that have levelled and other suspension things but this time I am going to sit it out and ride stock for a change. I guess I am just getting old. Hell I even put mud flaps on the new one!
Last edited by TimSchoenborn; Nov 26, 2018 at 06:16 AM.
Reason: Spelling
Don’t need a leveling kit. It maybe level in the parking lot but when driving down the interstate the truck will be nose high. Kinda defeats the purpose of leveling. Lots of Toyota’s are nose high when at speed. It looks bad.
Update, I finally got a 2.5" adjustable tow hitch and did some measuring with my TT. I haven't measured the actual tongue weight so I'm guessing a little here, but I'm sure it's in the range of 700-900 lbs. Putting the trailer on the hitch made the truck sag right at 1.5" measured right at the coupler with the truck visually level. Adding any weight distribution would bring some of the front to back rake back.
been seeing alot of these type of trucks pretty much daily. just happened to have my camera handy today. you can see by the wheel wells how bad its sagging with just a tiny trailer. im sure it sags quit a bit even without the trailet
been seeing alot of these type of trucks pretty much daily. just happened to have my camera handy today. you can see by the wheel wells how bad its sagging with just a tiny trailer. im sure it sags quit a bit even without the trailet
The 2011-2016 F250's like the one in your pic seemed to suffer from rear "sag" even without a level kit installed. Or maybe I should say this generation F250 sat fairly level stock. I think this was rectified on the 2017+ F250's by adding a thicker/taller rear spring block & incorporating taller wheel arches. I'm considering installing the 2011-2016 rear spring blocks on my 2019 F250 CCSB. There's a thread on here that covers this mod extensively. Lowering the rear on a 2017+ with the 2011-2016 blocks will only bring down the rear by approx 1.25-1.5". This will still leave approx 2.25" of "rake". This should leave enough "rake" to not over "squat" the rear when towing or loaded & not have the possible side effects of a front level kit. I know it seems contradictory since the last gen F250 sat about level with these spring blocks, but on a 2017+ F250 it seems to look good. For those that feel these trucks sit too high in the back but still want to maintain some functional "rake" & don't want to alter their front suspension geometry. This may be a viable option.
Whats the scoop on the trackbar? I’m going to need to find one thats heimed end with decent performance/lasting bushing on the other side that works with little lift.
Trying to figure out how much lift the heavy service springs (5600) give over the stock 5200lbs springs. If you are getting 1 inch with snow plow (5900) I am guessing .6” for mine.
I think 2 inch leveling looks a bit much on stock wheels with 35ish tires.
Whats the scoop on the trackbar? I’m going to need to find one thats heimed end with decent performance/lasting bushing on the other side that works with little lift.
Trying to figure out how much lift the heavy service springs (5600) give over the stock 5200lbs springs. If you are getting 1 inch with snow plow (5900) I am guessing .6” for mine.
I think 2 inch leveling looks a bit much on stock wheels with 35ish tires.
