2015 Battery life
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,495
Likes: 2,809
I have had failure somewhere near the 3 year mark on Ford batteries in an '86, '89, '93 and maybe a '98.
Had a Sears go 7 years in one rig.
Have an Interstate in the '99 Exploder that had been there a while when I bought the vehicle in '13, and has been run down and recharged a couple times due to non-use or long "door open" situations.
'13 Honda battery got weak in New England cold weather and replaced in '17.
Hard to say what drives them to failure but a 3 year life is nothing new for Ford batteries IMO.
Had a Sears go 7 years in one rig.
Have an Interstate in the '99 Exploder that had been there a while when I bought the vehicle in '13, and has been run down and recharged a couple times due to non-use or long "door open" situations.
'13 Honda battery got weak in New England cold weather and replaced in '17.
Hard to say what drives them to failure but a 3 year life is nothing new for Ford batteries IMO.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 134
From: Burleson, Tx
I will be saving this info, my truck was built 3 years ago so I'm sure it's not too far off for me.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,274
Likes: 4
From: Seattle area
They need to update their website. The only OEM that comes up when you select 2015 in their vehicle finder is Volvo. They don’t even have 2016 or 2017 to select from. I guess Volvo batts are horrible?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,274
Likes: 4
From: Seattle area
What kind of battery? 12.65 volts is 100% charged at 77° F, but, that is an obsolete number for the old school basic lead-acid type battery with the filler caps to add water.
Modern "maintenance free" batteries use a different plate alloy with calcium, a different chemistry. They have a fully charged open circuit voltage of 12.80 volts at 77° F. If you measure a maintenance free type battery reading 12.65 volts it's only about 75% charged. This is also the discharge level where permanent sulfation begins.
The open circuit voltage is only part of the story though. Battery has to both accept, and hold, a charge in order to be considered good. A battery can also test OK for voltage with a meter but it might choke under any kind of load.
An easy test is to first remove any surface charge. Turn the headlights on high for 5 minutes. Then wait at least 10 minutes or overnight. Measure the voltage across the posts. That is the true open circuit voltage and level of charge. If you can safely disable the ignition crank the engine starter for about ten to fifteen seconds while measuring the voltage at the battery posts. A good battery will not drop below 9.6 volts at 77° F. Then wait another ten minutes or so. The battery voltage should "bounce back" to the correct OCV. The capacity will be less, though not the voltage, if the battery is good. Put the charger on the battery to get it back to its happy place. If it passes those tests it should be good for a while. Maybe...
Modern "maintenance free" batteries use a different plate alloy with calcium, a different chemistry. They have a fully charged open circuit voltage of 12.80 volts at 77° F. If you measure a maintenance free type battery reading 12.65 volts it's only about 75% charged. This is also the discharge level where permanent sulfation begins.
The open circuit voltage is only part of the story though. Battery has to both accept, and hold, a charge in order to be considered good. A battery can also test OK for voltage with a meter but it might choke under any kind of load.
An easy test is to first remove any surface charge. Turn the headlights on high for 5 minutes. Then wait at least 10 minutes or overnight. Measure the voltage across the posts. That is the true open circuit voltage and level of charge. If you can safely disable the ignition crank the engine starter for about ten to fifteen seconds while measuring the voltage at the battery posts. A good battery will not drop below 9.6 volts at 77° F. Then wait another ten minutes or so. The battery voltage should "bounce back" to the correct OCV. The capacity will be less, though not the voltage, if the battery is good. Put the charger on the battery to get it back to its happy place. If it passes those tests it should be good for a while. Maybe...
My first simple test is to charge the battery fully with a smart charger (like CTEK or NOCO), and THEN disconnect from charger and let it sit overnight. if the resting voltage is less than 12.8, I'm worried. SOME vehicles have surprisingly large parasitic draws, so if you have battery issues, you may want to do these tests with the battery disconnected from the vehicle to rule that out.
I’m just talking about the OEM FoMoCo battery. But it sounds like my simple test with the battery still installed isn’t very accurate. Dang it...I was hoping it was that simple. My motor seems to be cranking a bit slower in the cold mornings and I’m not in the mood to pay for a new one right now. I do have a battery charger, so maybe I’ll run with SS250’s suggestion when I have a day off here.
Thanks guys!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,465
Likes: 725
From: Calgary Canada
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 40,024
Likes: 1,519
From: Maine, Virginia
I just wish there was a test at home for it's output in CCA's. This is the thing that I love about having my oil changed at the Ford dealer, this is a complimentary service because they are trying to up sell. When the battery in my 2011 truck was just 3 years old, I was having my oil changed and I did notice that the it was starting to drag a little on the cold mornings. I figured I'd run it through the winter then change in the spring. The tech showed me that she was putting out only 300 CCA's on an 850 CCA rated battery. I just had him change it during the oil change.
A year later I was doing some service on my bride's 2004 Expy. It had an Autozone Gold battery in it that was about 8 years old. Just for giggles I tested it with my multi-tester. It read right at 11.8v. I carried my happy butt right to the dealer and bought a MC MaXX 850 CCA. 99 month warranty. Perhaps it could have gone a bit longer but I'd feel like a real douche if my wife got stranded and I COULD have prevented it.
A year later I was doing some service on my bride's 2004 Expy. It had an Autozone Gold battery in it that was about 8 years old. Just for giggles I tested it with my multi-tester. It read right at 11.8v. I carried my happy butt right to the dealer and bought a MC MaXX 850 CCA. 99 month warranty. Perhaps it could have gone a bit longer but I'd feel like a real douche if my wife got stranded and I COULD have prevented it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Keeping them topped off any battery should last quite a bit longer than they would otherwise. Years most likely. Good batteries are getting kinda spendy so a decent charger will pay for itself pretty quick. And battery will perform for you when required, it is the heart of the electrical system.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,465
Likes: 725
From: Calgary Canada
Right, can't hurt anything by charging a battery up unless one is a real overachiever type, especially in cold weather. If battery is not reading 100% charge voltage, it simply needs to be charged. This takes several hours at an end point of 14.X volts or more. The alternator can't really do this effectively. They need a slight overcharge for some hours to equalize the cells. Make certain battery cable terminals and connections are clean and tight. Use an accurate voltmeter to monitor charge voltage and get a feel for what a charged battery looks like. The charge voltage starts low and current high, voltage rises and current tapers off as the battery accepts a full charge.
Keeping them topped off any battery should last quite a bit longer than they would otherwise. Years most likely. Good batteries are getting kinda spendy so a decent charger will pay for itself pretty quick. And battery will perform for you when required, it is the heart of the electrical system.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,881
Likes: 359
From: Mts. S. of San Francisco
Battery Voltage and State of Charge:
Does this look accurate? I think I got it here, but maybe from the Internet.
If this is accurate, at what point would you recommend preemptively replacing a battery? I’m coming up on four years with my truck and it shows 12.4v after a good drive/charge. I was figuring when it gave me a 12.2v reading it was time to replace.
- 12.6v - 100%
- 12.4v - 75%
- 12.2v - 50%
- 12.0v - 25%
- 11.8v - 0%
Does this look accurate? I think I got it here, but maybe from the Internet.
If this is accurate, at what point would you recommend preemptively replacing a battery? I’m coming up on four years with my truck and it shows 12.4v after a good drive/charge. I was figuring when it gave me a 12.2v reading it was time to replace.
The correct answer is "it depends". Voltage level is very difficult to equate to State of Charge (SOC). The voltage for a given SOC will depend on whether the battery is under load or not, and if not, how long it has had to rest.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5,650
Likes: 243
From: GA
Lol.....Very true hence the reason I posted the part# for our F150`s.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,881
Likes: 359
From: Mts. S. of San Francisco
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 228
Likes: 2
From: Memphis TN
I guess I am not alone,.three years seems to be the norm
I have owned a half dozen new trucks and all lasted 5 years
but none of those trucks had all the parasitic **** on it that todays
vehicles have ..
Usually when you die on the side of the road you cant be too choosy
I like to buy Costco stuff (Interstate) but when Advanced Auto Parts
is down the street you take what you can get
Good info,I have a multimeter in my truck and whenever I have an issue
i break it out and when shopping a new Batt I check a few on the rack and make sure
I dont have a dud
I have owned a half dozen new trucks and all lasted 5 years
but none of those trucks had all the parasitic **** on it that todays
vehicles have ..
I like to buy Costco stuff (Interstate) but when Advanced Auto Parts
is down the street you take what you can get
So let’s expand this chat a bit. I have the following noted on my phone (my truck notes):
Battery Voltage and State of Charge:
Does this look accurate? I think I got it here, but maybe from the Internet.
If this is accurate, at what point would you recommend preemptively replacing a battery? I’m coming up on four years with my truck and it shows 12.4v after a good drive/charge. I was figuring when it gave me a 12.2v reading it was time to replace.
Battery Voltage and State of Charge:
- 12.6v - 100%
- 12.4v - 75%
- 12.2v - 50%
- 12.0v - 25%
- 11.8v - 0%
Does this look accurate? I think I got it here, but maybe from the Internet.
If this is accurate, at what point would you recommend preemptively replacing a battery? I’m coming up on four years with my truck and it shows 12.4v after a good drive/charge. I was figuring when it gave me a 12.2v reading it was time to replace.
i break it out and when shopping a new Batt I check a few on the rack and make sure
I dont have a dud
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 32
Only one car I've owned surprised me with a short-lived battery.. a 1995 Isuzu Trooper. It didn't last for more than two years but I always had the door open and forgot my headlights on so many times. My 2012 F-150 lasted for more than four years. I never had to change it. I don't drive much, probably once a week. Once, I didn't drive for almost two months and my 2016 F-150 started up just fine. I don't think I have that much parasitic draw going on, but I could be mistaken.