Injectors acting funny
Fleet Owner
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It is certainly possible for incorrect torquing to result in a contribution fault. That said, your post #24 is a little confusing to me. Does that post mean that #4 performs fine once the engine warms up? If so, that doesn't sound like a torque issue.
So just to be clear, you are getting electrical codes as well as the #3 contribution code?
You could go back in and remove the problem injector (I would start w/ #3) and inspect the copper washer for burning and inspect the injector o-rings/seals.
You could even swap an injector from another cylinder with the bad one and see if the performance problem follows it.
I would follow the good advice from Sean and 87crewdually and get a new OEM injector for #3 at least. You get even get rush shipping from Auto Nation and still probably save money vs the $220 from the Auto Parts store.
Might as well post FICM LPower (logic) value when cranking. Even though the power side looks good, it could have logic issues.
So just to be clear, you are getting electrical codes as well as the #3 contribution code?
You could go back in and remove the problem injector (I would start w/ #3) and inspect the copper washer for burning and inspect the injector o-rings/seals.
You could even swap an injector from another cylinder with the bad one and see if the performance problem follows it.
I would follow the good advice from Sean and 87crewdually and get a new OEM injector for #3 at least. You get even get rush shipping from Auto Nation and still probably save money vs the $220 from the Auto Parts store.
Might as well post FICM LPower (logic) value when cranking. Even though the power side looks good, it could have logic issues.
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Originally Posted by bismic
It is certainly possible for incorrect torquing to result in a contribution fault. That said, your post #24 is a little confusing to me. Does that post mean that #4 performs fine once the engine warms up? If so, that doesn't sound like a torque issue.
So just to be clear, you are getting electrical codes as well as the #3 contribution code?
You could go back in and remove the problem injector (I would start w/ #3) and inspect the copper washer for burning and inspect the injector o-rings/seals.
You could even swap an injector from another cylinder with the bad one and see if the performance problem follows it.
I would follow the good advice from Sean and 87crewdually and get a new OEM injector for #3 at least. You get even get rush shipping from Auto Nation and still probably save money vs the $220 from the Auto Parts store.
Might as well post FICM LPower (logic) value when cranking. Even though the power side looks good, it could have logic issues.
So just to be clear, you are getting electrical codes as well as the #3 contribution code?
You could go back in and remove the problem injector (I would start w/ #3) and inspect the copper washer for burning and inspect the injector o-rings/seals.
You could even swap an injector from another cylinder with the bad one and see if the performance problem follows it.
I would follow the good advice from Sean and 87crewdually and get a new OEM injector for #3 at least. You get even get rush shipping from Auto Nation and still probably save money vs the $220 from the Auto Parts store.
Might as well post FICM LPower (logic) value when cranking. Even though the power side looks good, it could have logic issues.
As for #3 it works perfect when cold, then shuts down when engine is warmed up. @ certain rpms it will work, some times even at wot it will show it is working, then once I come to a stop it will show a dead cylinder again and I can feel the miss. I am ONLY getting a contribution balance code for cylinder 3. Everything els checks out fine.
I will check out the cold cranking ficm today and post it. But yeah, if I pull another valve cover I am going to replace all 4 lol. It's not hard just time consuming.
And yes "440" I used new o rings and copper washer for the used injector.
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Just for ***** & Giggles can your scan tool run the relative compression test?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Spanaway
If it sounds even that is a good sign.
Can you watch the trace from the cam and crank sensors while
your doing that and you should be able to see any speed changes.
That might work as an alternative. If you ever need to do it.
Can you watch the trace from the cam and crank sensors while
your doing that and you should be able to see any speed changes.
That might work as an alternative. If you ever need to do it.
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Joined: Oct 2018
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Threw some archoil in that baby a few weeks ago. I'm happy to report improvement but not fixed. My 7 and 5 are still failing a tiny bit but nothing like before. They're doing pretty good. My #3 now works good when cold then starts acting up once warmed up still. BUT!!! before it would fail and never come back... now it's sometimes working, so it's showing improvement, I'm hoping with some more city driving it'll get that baby working again.
Also I might add that I've barley driven it, maybe 35-40 miles over a few weeks lol.
Also I might add that I've barley driven it, maybe 35-40 miles over a few weeks lol.
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