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looking at doing a coolant flush on my 2005 6.0 before I take it 250 miles to glamis next weekend. My EOT’s are currently 18 degrees hotter than my ECT’s right now on a normal flat grade 75 mph drive so I want to fix it before it gets worse.
So my question is, what’s the best coolant to run? It currently has ford gold in it but I was told not to run the gold anymore and to run elc. Would delo or rotella elc coolant work?
also, I want to do the csascade powder flush to get any gunk out but I was told not to do this on a partially clogged stock oil cooler. Is this true? If not, what’s the procedure to do the cascade powder flush
i did a Restore and Restore+ flush and saw deltas go up a degree or two. I think most guys have the best luck back flushing the cooler itself. They’ll have to chime in on how long the benefit lasts.
Flush with the old cooler in place and drive the truck for a few hundred miles. The old cooler will catch the debris than take a weekend to drain, fill, and replace the oil cooler.
i did a Restore and Restore+ flush and saw deltas go up a degree or two. I think most guys have the best luck back flushing the cooler itself. They’ll have to chime in on how long the benefit lasts.
It works for a while and then the deltas slowly creep up again. It does get a lot of crud out when you backflush with a mix of water and shop air and for a quick fix does not take as long as a cooler swap.
I had 15 degree difference 3 years and 44k miles ago. I flushed and filled dozens of times. Ran Restore through the system. Filled it back up with equal parts Zerex ELC and distilled water. Installed an IPR coolant filter.
I was too new to the 6.0 and had my mechanic install new BPD EGR and Ford Oil coolers. It was more for peace of mind and insurance down the road.
I have done several week long cold soaks and my EOT is usually 3-7 degrees warmer than the ECT. Ambient outdoor temperature ranges between 50 and 75 degrees.
On hot days, my EOT is 10-12 degrees hotter than ECT and I am not the least bit concerned. The van has 821k on the clock and works great.
I believe have a temperature control sensor issue.
Hypothetical situation: Let's do the math-at 50 degrees F, the EOC is 4 degrees higher than ECT when the van sits for 24 hours or longer. When cruising for hours at 75 mph and the ECT is 210, using the ratio and proportion formula, my EOT should be 228. 50/46=x/210. X=228. 228-210=18. I am sure that it's not this simple. I just know that my EOT is always going to be higher as it's always higher when the van sits for a week.
I think I made a big deal out of something that was not a big deal. However, I am glad that I replaced the EGR and oil cooler as the mechanic replaced a lot of other items that eventually were going to fail including the EGR cooler. He said my oil cooler looked good considering the miles on the vehicle.
Compare the EOT, ECT and IAT sensors. That should tell you which one is out. Replace the sensor that doesn't read right - I wouldn't horse around with a sensor that doesn't read right.
Mine are almost thirty degrees, almost. It is not making me as nervous as it should I suppose.
My oil temperature gets in the high teens, 218, but the ECT is 190 at its highest. This is in July doing 75 MPH for a long stretch. I monitor with Torque Pro and an old phone.
I see some guys with a five degree Delta but their temperatures are in the mid to upper 220s. I mean that is scarier to me since the oil will start to cook the fuel ~ 238°. Right?
If it hits 220F then I'll reverse flush. I guess I should say when....
Compare the EOT, ECT and IAT sensors. That should tell you which one is out. Replace the sensor that doesn't read right - I wouldn't horse around with a sensor that doesn't read right.
what is the IAT sensor? Probably. Good idea to check it. My EOT is consistently warmer even with the van sitti g for a week.
what is the IAT sensor? Probably. Good idea to check it. My EOT is consistently warmer even with the van sitti g for a week.
IntakeAirTemperature sensor #2 is screwed I to the intake manifold. IATS#1 is the MAF sensor.
The IAT2 can get surrounded with carbon and oil from the EGR system and give faulty readings. Its easily removed and cleaned with carb cleaner.
Here's a before & after.
IntakeAirTemperature sensor #2 is screwed I to the intake manifold. IATS#1 is the MAF sensor.
The IAT2 can get surrounded with carbon and oil from the EGR system and give faulty readings. Its easily removed and cleaned with carb cleaner.
Here's a before & after.
Thanks for the photo and insight! I will clean out the IAT2
If it's silicate gel then an alkaline cleaner like Restore will dissolve it, but it may take much longer then the bottle recommended time to do it adequately.
If its rust, the acidic cleaners will dissolve the rust particles into solution, again it may take longer and at a higher concentration then the bottle states, Restore Plus is acidic for this and the pdf file states longer and higher may be necessary. Restore Plus like a few others are mostly a citric acid cleaner (~20% before secondary dilution) with some surfactants and a little phosphoric acid as a rust converter.
But big rust and other particles can block the intake layer ports in the oil cooler and the only way to get that out is backflushing. Depending on where the backflushed particles go they can come back to some extent. Just like a drain and fill on transmissions, how many times you do it at the servicing interval reduces the concentration of particles, if they all will pop out.
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