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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 03:48 PM
  #16  
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From: Bahstun
test GPs is easy
remove harness from VC
measure pin to gnd
should be 1 ohm

for a quick test and with a good meter, see if you have .125 ohms to gnd on the GPR post that has two thick cables if higher then remove both wires and see if you have .250 ohm on each wire to gnd. higher numbers indicate a weak GP and then you have to ohm each out to find the bad one.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 04:20 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by knottyrope
test GPs is easy
remove harness from VC
measure pin to gnd
should be 1 ohm

for a quick test and with a good meter, see if you have .125 ohms to gnd on the GPR post that has two thick cables if higher then remove both wires and see if you have .250 ohm on each wire to gnd. higher numbers indicate a weak GP and then you have to ohm each out to find the bad one.
I don't know where the pins are and where the Ohms setting is. I will look for a video
 
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 08:09 AM
  #18  
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From: Bahstun
set meter to Ω

the outer pins on VC connector are for the GP and they are thicker pins to handle the current
 
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Old Nov 27, 2018 | 07:54 AM
  #19  
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I wish I could say this issue is gone but it is not. My batts are too low to start. I just replaced them. It has been only driven 1 time in the past 3 weeks. due to me recovering from surgery. I know my XM radio was on the whole time but radio was not. I wonder if the small XM box could draw that much power. I remember removing it when testing the last time and it did not seem to change anything. I'm usually good at tracking shorts down but this is just baffled me.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2018 | 08:13 AM
  #20  
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If you have the aftermarket XM that sits on the dash, and plugs into the cigar lighter or power point, then yes it can drain your batteries. I'm not sure if it would in 3 weeks on new batteries, but I hadn't driven my 96 C&C truck in about 2 weeks with my XM plugged in, and it didn't want to crank over. My batteries are about 1 year old.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2018 | 09:58 AM
  #21  
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There seems to be a lot of people with this question. I'm thinking that it may be my issue or at least part of it. time to wire it into the ignition to be sure. I'm to forgetful to turn it off.
It still cranked and wanted to start but not enough . I also don't think my block heater was powered up. I believe my extension cord has a bad end on it. I had to work the cord end to get power to the battery charger. I bought a 5 amp charger to mount under the hood but never put it in. I'm thinking i will. it never hurts to keep the Batts charged up or toped off in the winter either.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2018 | 06:44 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by mcali2
I don't know where the pins are and where the Ohms setting is. I will look for a video
This guy right here tells how to ohm the glow plugs through the harness. He tells what pins go to what.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6872459

This is nice coz you don't have to take off the valve covers.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 06:36 AM
  #23  
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do you have an aftermarket remote start on the truck? my 02 plow truck does this, the aftermarket remote start module is bad and kills the brand new batteries in 4 days if the battery maintainer is not plugged in.
if i unplug the remote start power feed it can sit for 4 months and still fire rite up
 
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