6.2L Stalling
Trailering
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 18
Likes: 4
From: San Juan Capistrano, CA
I know this thread is old but
Just wanted to say Thanks to everyone who posted here.
After reading this thread, got my truck fixed.
Stalled only when cold, would start right back up. Ran after warmed up.
No codes.
It Was The Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Did it yesterday took 4-1/2 hours runs perfect.
Oh it was a 2012 f250 6.2, 110800 miles on it.
Just wanted to say Thanks to everyone who posted here.
After reading this thread, got my truck fixed.
Stalled only when cold, would start right back up. Ran after warmed up.
No codes.
It Was The Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Did it yesterday took 4-1/2 hours runs perfect.
Oh it was a 2012 f250 6.2, 110800 miles on it.
Trailering
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
Yes the intake has to come off.
If you do it, when installing the new sensor, make sure it is sitting correctly.
Mount hole should sit flat. I had to try several time inserting it took a few minutes
before it set flat. It is plastic If it is not in correctly you will break it when you tighten it.
If you do it, when installing the new sensor, make sure it is sitting correctly.
Mount hole should sit flat. I had to try several time inserting it took a few minutes
before it set flat. It is plastic If it is not in correctly you will break it when you tighten it.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 432
Likes: 112
Just don't get the Amazon off brand ones 😂. Probably 30% of them will fail within 100 miles.
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I still havent found any solutions. Ive searched all over the internet with no luck of finding someone with a similar situation. Once the truck is done with high idle, it quites. U can keep it going by staying on the throttle.... if you keep driving it, eventually it idles on its own and stays running after about 20 mins.
I was going to try changing the pcv to see if that was the culprit. Still getting P0394 and P0369 codes every now and then when trying to mess with. My truck only has 50,000 miles on it, but i feel that time has caught up to it. Looking under the hood at some of the rusted hardware really upsets me.
Im hesitant to bring it to the dealer because i dont want them just throwing parts at it, at my expense.
Do the cam position sensors that i replaced, need to be re-learned by the computer?
I was going to try changing the pcv to see if that was the culprit. Still getting P0394 and P0369 codes every now and then when trying to mess with. My truck only has 50,000 miles on it, but i feel that time has caught up to it. Looking under the hood at some of the rusted hardware really upsets me.
Im hesitant to bring it to the dealer because i dont want them just throwing parts at it, at my expense.
Do the cam position sensors that i replaced, need to be re-learned by the computer?
Trailering
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 19
Likes: 2
I actually just got my truck out of the shop for the same issue. It would sputter a little at startup then high idle fine then once high idle was done if I let the rpms drop below 1200 or so it would start to die and would stall clear out when put into gear. The shop looked my truck over and cleaned the MAF sensor and took the throttle body apart and cleaned it. I picked up the truck today and have stopped and started about 5 times and so far so good. My truck does have 224000 miles on it but it might give you a starting point to look into before you start throwing parts at it.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 432
Likes: 112
I actually just got my truck out of the shop for the same issue. It would sputter a little at startup then high idle fine then once high idle was done if I let the rpms drop below 1200 or so it would start to die and would stall clear out when put into gear. The shop looked my truck over and cleaned the MAF sensor and took the throttle body apart and cleaned it. I picked up the truck today and have stopped and started about 5 times and so far so good. My truck does have 224000 miles on it but it might give you a starting point to look into before you start throwing parts at it.
I cleaned my TB on the truck but probably easier to take it off, says you need new gasket if you do (IDK). Just disconnect the wire to the TB, I read it could eat fingers, has sweep cycle to clear ice! Used a microfiber rag/tb cleaner and a toilet paper core to hold open. Was pretty black.
Trailering
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 19
Likes: 2
Along with a Tuneup I got a can of MAF and TB cleaner - truck runs smoother than a showroom new truck. 100% worth it to do. I have about 190k. Before it ran ok but had some vibration and lousy idle when cold. When I first started it up, it hesitated for like 15 seconds until it relearned. Definitely a big difference.
I cleaned my TB on the truck but probably easier to take it off, says you need new gasket if you do (IDK). Just disconnect the wire to the TB, I read it could eat fingers, has sweep cycle to clear ice! Used a microfiber rag/tb cleaner and a toilet paper core to hold open. Was pretty black.
I cleaned my TB on the truck but probably easier to take it off, says you need new gasket if you do (IDK). Just disconnect the wire to the TB, I read it could eat fingers, has sweep cycle to clear ice! Used a microfiber rag/tb cleaner and a toilet paper core to hold open. Was pretty black.
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1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
This thread is an abundance of information. I have changed, like you all, multiple sensors in my 2011 F250 6.2L with 115K on the truck. Nothing has helped. Truck runs great at operating temperature, however stalls at low idle or at stops before it warms. Has everyone found the crankshaft position sensor to be the problem? I wish I read this when the intake was off for the cam sensor replacements lol. Lesson learned.
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