6.2L Stalling
New User
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
6.2 stalling
Yeah the owner at the shop is trying to convince me it’s the throttle body. I had already taken that out and cleaned it but it is electrical so it’s really hard to tell. I just don’t want to spend 600-700 to replace a throttle body for it not to be that and it seems like those electric throttle bodies are hard to come by.
New User
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
stalling
update. my truck has gotten worse. I have changed the torque converter and trans. just changed the pcm. now it will only run with a charger on it. battery tests good. it will still stall at 165 temp. any one have any idea why its doing this. thank you
New User
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
yes that was my first thing. I changed both temp sensors,intake gasket,throttle body,pcm,torque converter,transmission, no luck. niw it will only run with charger on the battery. if you take the charger off it will stall. if it hits 165 temp it will stall. thanks you for responding. I really appreciate it.
New User
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
6.2 stalling
New User
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
stalling
yes that was the first thing I changed. I changes the torque converter. cam sensors,02 sensors,temp sensors,pcm,throttle body.. it would still stall.. I changed the crank sensor and now it runs great
New User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
From: N.E Ohio
Just to throw this out there. I too had an issue with my truck stalling when putting it in gear.
This would happen after the cold start high idle would drop but before the engine was at operating temp.
It would always start right back up once it stalled.
I also had OBDII codes for the cam sensors, replaced those with no change, cleaned the throttle body, no change.
I found this thread, swapped the crankshaft position sensor, problem solved.
Runs great, shifts better and idle RPMs are more consistent.
Last edited by markmcj; Feb 28, 2021 at 09:33 PM. Reason: Spelling
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New User
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
Just to throw is out there. I too had an issue with my truck stalling when putting it in gear.
This would happen after the cold start high idle would drop but before the engine was at operating temp.
It would always start right back up once it stalled.
I also had OBDII codes for the cam sensors, replaced those with no change, cleaned the throttle body, no change.
I found this thread, swapped the crankshaft position sensor, problem solved.
Runs great, shifts better and idle RPMs are more consistent.
This would happen after the cold start high idle would drop but before the engine was at operating temp.
It would always start right back up once it stalled.
I also had OBDII codes for the cam sensors, replaced those with no change, cleaned the throttle body, no change.
I found this thread, swapped the crankshaft position sensor, problem solved.
Runs great, shifts better and idle RPMs are more consistent.
New User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Locaion
thanks!!
New User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
From: N.E Ohio
I read the intake has to be removed. Which I did.
If I ever have to do it again, I would try to take a serious look and double check if there is clearance to get it out with the intake manifold on. There just might be.
Be careful installing the new one, it needs to go in at the correct angle..
Total time for the service was approximately 2.5 hours.
Good luck.
New User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2011 6.2L - the crank sensor is on the very back of the block, driver side.
I read the intake has to be removed. Which I did.
If I ever have to do it again, I would try to take a serious look and double check if there is clearance to get it out with the intake manifold on. There just might be.
Be careful installing the new one, it needs to go in at the correct angle..
Total time for the service was approximately 2.5 hours.
Good luck.
I read the intake has to be removed. Which I did.
If I ever have to do it again, I would try to take a serious look and double check if there is clearance to get it out with the intake manifold on. There just might be.
Be careful installing the new one, it needs to go in at the correct angle..
Total time for the service was approximately 2.5 hours.
Good luck.
New User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
From: N.E Ohio
You will not even get close to it from under the truck.
It will have to be from the top.
Using a mirror, you'll be able to see it. If you try to get it out without removing the intake, it will be by feel.
Trailering
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
. I finally got it to run. it turned out to be the crankshaft positioning sensor.. I found an article online that said it can go bad without setting off the cel. it will cause stalling when it warms up do to the coils inside expanding. I wish I found this esrlier on it would gave saved me 5k. I hope this saves someone alot of time and money
Just wanted to say Thanks to everyone who posted here.
After reading this thread, got my truck fixed.
Stalled only when cold, would start right back up. Ran after warmed up.
No codes.
It Was The Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Did it yesterday took 4-1/2 hours runs perfect.
Oh it was a 2012 f250 6.2, 110800 miles on it.