When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1. Will the truck start / work if the FICM plugs are not in or in correctly? Today I removed my FICM to send into ED. When I removed the first plug *closest to front) the back two came out on thier own. I inspected the connections and they went broke. Earlier in the year, I had the injectors, oil cooler, egr cooler replaced. I thinking mechanic didnt get them seated?
2. Is there supposed to be rubber grommets in the holes that hold the FICM onto motor? Mine did not have any??
Yes the truck can start and run although usually very poorly. AFA the rubber grommets go, not on an 05.
If the plugs are broken on your FICM harness, then get new ones to replace them (fairly difficult to do) or get a new harness if you can afford it. Trying to tie them back in is temporary at best and a SERIOUS pain in the A$$.
When the plastic tabs, that lock in the connections to the FICM, broke I used long zip ties to hold them in place. Wasn't too bad to do. I never had any problems with my connections after that. Much cheaper than buying the new harness. I wouldn't recommend it if it didn't work for me, but it did.
Since nobody else has replied to you, I'll try. First, you need to use the search feature on this forum which probably has all the answers you need.
My recollection is that there were rubber grommets in the holes on my FICM. Bear in mind, I have an early 2003 and yours may be different. You may find the answer if you look up the FICM and associated parts on a Ford Truck parts site.
As to your connectivity issue on the two aft connectors, I would believe that loose connectors don't work well. Again if you search, I believe you will find workarounds for loose connectors. If I remember correctly, some have used plastic ties to secure the loose plugs to the FICM ports. Again if you search, you will find some thoughts on this. I believe Allied may have replacement plugs that may be spliced in. If it isn't them, someone has posted on here where to get them. Make sure you inspect all the pins and holes on each connector.
Since you may have loose connections and you have inspected the pins and holes and they are okay, I would secure the connections and then test your FICM voltage with your scan gauge. Perhaps your FICM is okay, maybe not. Worth a try to see.
It sounds like you have invested a lot of money in this truck and I hope you don't have to spend much more. My 2 cents is either figure out how to do it yourself or use a Ford dealer unless you are absolutely sure the independent you use is competent. There are a lot of wanabe diesel mechanics out there. When I bought my truck in 2003, I was 58 years old. I figured Ford knew how to build a proper truck so I really didn't need to learn about diesels and I would drive smoothly into the sunset. Fifteen years later, I can tell you it has been bumpy ride and I have learned more about 6.0 diesels than I ever wanted to. Again, good luck.
Thanks for the reply. When I removed the ficm there were not any rubber insulators on it at all. I'm sure that didnt help it. I've ordered new ones for $30. Ive inspected the plugs and pins all look good. I just think (I hope] the mechanic didnt get them seated good enough. Ive already budgeted to have ED redo my ficm and do the Atlas tune so, I'm just going to have it done. I also recently replaced all the injectors so it can't hurt and will give me peace of mind.
Did you miss post #3? A 2005 has the isolators where the bracket attaches to the valve cover. I bet yours are still there, but you should check, since you never know what a previous owner or mechanic did to your truck for sure.
The good thing is Ed’s got you coved on the Ficm , 03/04 and late built 04 rubber antishock grommets are over the bolt under the Ficm , 05 design is good because you know they will stay in place when you pull it out , for some odd reason ( couldn’t be heat ) my clips are all broke , had to Zip tie the connections , when I went to do Injectors just a couple weeks ago , the zip ties were gone, connections are still in tight, I think I’ll still Thread in a tie for piece of mind before I go onto a long drive on a dark and lonely hiway East of Omaha .
Yes, I've heard Ed is the best out there. Im going to have him add the Atlas 40 tune too. Just hope it's not a waste of money.
you’ll be good with the 40 , anything larger in a Tune hurts the tranny , I went with plain Jane last time , now I’m kicking my self , the truck has pleanty of what I need it for and still leaves duraturds and dodges at the light,lol
Ok a little plug info.
The back two are the ones that go out to the injectors. The front one is the big one and that goes to the
PCM and a few other places and it helps to have the right pin tool for removing the pins.
Here are some photos of a new front plug. I am just waiting for a time when I am in there deep enough
so I can spend the time with it. If you do it be very sure that each pin goes back into the same hole on the
new pluf it came out of on the old one. One at a time is your best bet.
Also if you look at the face of the plug you can see the holes are numbered.
I don't have a photof how to un-pin a connector but I can find my tool and take a few photos of even do a fideo. But the trick is
you have a plastic clip that needs to be lifter before you can pull the pin out. Then when you install the pin in the new housing
you have to be sure to get the pin to latch into that clip. The white plugs need to be in the unpinned holes to keep moisture out
if the connection. Now for the easy part. You can buy both repair clips from Ed. Just let him know what ones you need and how many.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
FICM QUESTION
