I have a 04 6.0 with 150k miles with cold start issues only when the temps drop below 50 degrees.
I am not very technical, have not checked the FICM or checked for codes to find out what is wrong, I live in Washington state Tacoma where it doesnt get that cold.
For years I've never had to plug it in until last winter.
So I changed the glow plugs, tested the old ones and they all warmed up. ( testing being I hooked them up to a battery and they smoked from the oil on them, not technical I know)
Once its warmed up it fires right up just like normal.
I get it to start by cycling the plugs 2 or 3 times and then pump the pedal while I hold the starter down, if I dont it will just turn over once then nothing.
Batteries are duralast gold 850 CC about 6 years old, Ive had the batteries tested at autozone, they say they are still good.
Without going for a real diagnostic (which would probably be better) Im just throwing money at it (cheaper options first).
Not knowing what Im talking about Im thinking the injectors are sticking? Ive put in the stiction stuff with my oil change, added the anti gel into fuel and nothing.
My next move(ball of cash) will be to replace the starter and batteries.

I know Im not giving out really good info, just looking for educated guesses, or any idea really in what it could be or what else I can try.

Thanks.

 

Welcome to the forum . I can't diagnose your truck but for less than $100, your local Ford dealer should be able to scan the vehicle and give a correct diagnosis. In my opinion it would be money well spent. A new starter and set of batteries will set you back around $500 and may or may not solve your problem. JMHO.

 

Welcome to the forum,.
First, most of us that have/had a 6oh do not just guess, typically. With the money you have put into it with out knowing if your actually fixing it, you could have just bought a OBD II Bluetooth adapter ($25.00)and downloaded a $5.00 Torque Pro app (Android based) which is live data reader and is very easy to use. This is the first thing to do, IMO. Then you will have more info to start working towards fixing the issues.

Guessing, it sounds like the FICM. But then again without info from the truck its still a guessing game.

Hopefully you get something to read live data.
- Preston

 

 

You need to get the voltages when you trying to start.
6 year old batteries in a diesel more than likely they no longer have the punch. You want to know the CCA.
You can stick a meter on then when it running and check the voltage that way. If the granking speed drops
off fast when trying to start I would still point at the batteries. Here is the issue. Low voltage is caused by a bad
alternator. A bad alternator will take the batterise down and in the process take out the FICM.

Call ED on Monday he can walk you through testing but you will need a volt meter.
FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts

 

Cycling the glow plugs multiple times probably isn't the best thing to be doing. Hate to see you burn off a tip in one. They stay on well past when the light goes off. Also, pumping the pedal really doesn't do anything either. Fuel is added when the injectors are commanded to fire and the fuel pump is on as soon as the key is turned on.

Get a smart phone app and the adapter ASAP.

 

X2 Engine is Drive-by-wire so PCM only looks at throttle position when it wants, forscan is what I use and it's very good - even has multiple languages!

 

Or batterys that are just plain worn out that an alternator can't overcome.

 

My batteries last nowhere near 6 years, even with a good alternator...

 

I averaged 2 to 4 years on my 6.0. Just made 4 years on my 6.7 and still going strong, knock on wood. The 6.7 also comes with a 200 amp alt.

 

Very true.
One point a lot of people don't get is the alternator is not designed to charge a flat battery up. In the automotive
world it job is to power the system and top the battery back up and not recharge from a dead state. Trying to recharge
dron a dead or near dead state will take the alternator out. So if you have bad batteries you need to take the alternator
in for a bench test. Take the batteries into to someone that has an old carbon pile battery tester. 6 years, My bet they
are toast. It is also likely that the alternator is not far behind.

 

Totally agree Sean. You wouldn't believe the negative response I got from a supposed expert on another forum when I posted something similar!

 

The way they build alternators for cars just don't have the ability to deal with the double demand.
If they were to change the diode pack and the regulator so you got the correct dead battery charging
curve then it would be ok. But they have not.I think that changing the regulator so that had a dual curve
for doing the battery charge correctly would not be a low cost option and you would have to run the
engine long enough to reach the cutoff point in the charge cycle.