2wd mileage
. If I do delete & upgrade oil cooler + add a sct tuner, what kinda realistic mileage can I get?
I have to drive something to Austin tx etc fm Charlotte a 2500 - 5000 mile trip & am trying to justify the $1000 in parts for me to do the work..... My alternative is to drive my wife's jeep that gets 19mpg highway, but then she has to drive my truck for 2 months, something she is not real exited about.....
so I guess my target is 20 or so mpg if not more......
thanks, I have limited internet access & have not been able to find much in search
peace
slacker
Good luck paying for your upgrades via fuel savings. Fuel is expensive, but not that expensive. I think the SCT is the only "upgrade" that may improve your fuel economy.
The big MPG killer is stop and go driving. So if you can stay out of city trafic and keep rolling you will see better numbers.
Also when was the last time your air filter was replaced? The filter minder is not the best to go by as it takes a lot to trip it.
Do you monitor coolant and oil temperatures? If so, what are the numbers. Why do you think you need an upgraded oil cooler?
As far as mileage goes, keep the tires inflated as high as you are comfortable with, make sure the brakes aren't dragging and accessories and pulleys aren't creating higher-than-normal resistance, verify that the turbo and its sensors are working well, check for boost and CAC leaks, and follow Sean's advice above.
Make sure EBP, MAP, and Baro are all reading essentially the same at KOEO, and verify that the MAP hose isn't loose/plugged/cracked, and verify the EBP sensor tube isn't plugged.
I would justify the EGR delete (or my preference a BPD EGR cooler) purely on reliability! With the BPD EGR cooler, you can remove the EGR function in the SCT tune and still get the benefit.
Also for reliability, upgrade the STC fitting and the standpipes and dummy plugs (if not already done). Leaks in the HPO system "can" cause lower power and probably impact fuel economy.
why updated oil cooler? I thought OE design was restrictive & subject to plugging? I have a ford cooler to install. I was going to weld EGR cooler shut, leave the now useless valve in, get a SCT to keep CEL off & hopefully maximize MPG.
even though I have cleaned it, never been wet, the EGR keeps setting the code.
I don't have service history on the truck.
It did quit last year, While towing. No warning, just shut off. Not enuf HPOP pressure to refire. Tried IPR swap. Still 300 psi cranking. Never found a smoking gun. After each step, I would go thru HP priming routine, no luck. I upgraded dummies, standpipes, it already had STC done & the HPOP had been changed or worked on(it was way cleaner than valley & a few hard to get to bolts were missing, someone had been in there) I couldn't get it to start. I put in a good used & tested HPOP, no change.
I had it towed. My tech fogged it w brake clean & it fired right up. Something in the HP oil system had a problem, but who know what it was. My tech thinks it was IPR.....anyways,
I serviced the turbo when I had it apart.
my issues are low mileage, a returning EGR code, gotta look it up, I don't have notes here, & a sometimes stumble upon accelerating while on cruise, like when you find a hill, it stumbles, blows black smoke, then the turbo kicks in, it clears out and runs fine. My tech says its EGR.
I am not a pro diesel mechanic, I work on Top Fuel Dragsters, so am not a mechanical idiot, just a diesel noob.
I will check the rest of stuff mentioned above.
truck had air filter & oil change <5000 miles ago. Air filter looked good when I was trying to find HP leak.
thanks for your time.
Peace
ks
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As far as the oil cooler goes, International updated the original oil cooler to include an extra cooling row. That is the extent of the change. Yes it is an upgrade, but not a big one. Additionally, the passageways are the same size. Some aftermarket companies call their oil cooler an upgrade. IMO only the aftermarket oil cooler that is an upgrade is the one from BulletProofDiesel. Most aftermarket ones are far from an upgrade. I just wanted to verify what you meant.
Your 15 degree differential is high enough that it would warrant a new oil cooler.
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Nothing to do with fuel economy however. Carry on.
Oh also you you may find your road trip economy to be higher than your calcs have previously revealed. So that 14 migh end up being 16 or 17 in cruise mode. Remember that the key to maximum efficiency is not how much gas pedal we use it’s how much BRAKE pedal we use. Because brakes are shedding heat which we have generated by burning fuel. So, don’t shed that heat via brakes. This is why I treat traffic signals and signs as suggestions rather than rules.
After all it is C.A.R.B approved and should be the last one you have to change on that truck.












