I would run a Delo 15w30 diesel grade oil, this is a heavy detergent that will help keep the motor clean. I run this oil year around on a fresh rebuild even and temps dip into the teens here where i live often. only run a wix, purolator or motorcraft filters. stay away from Fram filters

 

Guys: dropped a pan for the first time today!!! Quick recap:

The symptoms were slipping in forward and reverse and sometimes not going into gear. The dipstick showed brown fluid but it didn't smell burnt. Dropped the pan - no large metal chunks or flakes - some small metallic buildup at the bottom of the pan. Fluid was mostly brownish-red. Replaced filter and put in 9.5 qts of Mercon ATF. Ran thru all gears while stationary - checked the fluid and according to the dipstick it was good. The trans firmly grabbed both forward and reverse - took it on a test drive and it had all three forward gears. Pics!


Old filter

New filter and pickup back in

Changed the oil with 10W30 Mobil One and used a Motorcraft oil filter. Sucked out brake fluid and PS fluid and replaced with fresh fluid. Tomorrow I'll clean out the radiator - coolant is brown but not horrible looking.



Also - does anyone know what this little air filter is? It sits in the airbox underneath the main air filter - looks like it's hooked to a PCV system.

 

Also Kemicalburns - as per our hubs vs. build date discussion - the build date is 4/88.

 

vary interesting regarding the hubs. perhaps that front end got swapped out at some point.

that little filter in the air box is important. with that said i had it fail and pull in a bunch of silt/sand during a dune trip and ruined my motor. I followed that tube back to the valve cover and place a short hose and small cone filter on the end as a solution. I'll see if can get a pic if you are unsure what i mean.

 

I guess we'll never know, I'm just glad to have the Warn manuals. As for the filter I think I get what you mean. Is there any way to get a new one from a parts house though?

 

As dirty as your Fluid was, I think it is a good idea to drain the torque converter when changing transmission fluid.
Also, suggest you change your tranny and TC again after a few hundred miles, then you know your fluid is fairly clean.
This will extend the life of that transmission, then you can get on a regular schedule.

Your torque converter has a drain plug that is accessible from the frontof the transmission. There should be an access plate at the bottom of the flywheel cover between the engine and transmission.

Step 1: Drain the transmission, replace the filter, and re-assemble as you would normally, but do not yet add fluid.

Step 2: Remove the two screws that hold the access plate to the flywheel cover. The cover should fall off into your hand, if you keep one hand under it while removing the screws with a wrench in the other hand.

Step 3: Either flick the starter (or turn the engine manually) to turn the torque converter in small increments until the drain plug is visible in the opening from where the access plate was removed. Important: Turn the engine incrementally; do not run the engine. Permanent damage can occur if you run the transmission without adequate fluid.

Step 4: Place a container that will hold at least six quarts of fluid directly under the torque converter.

Step 5: Remove the drain plug and allow the fluid in the torque converter to completely drain into the container.

Step 6: When the fluid is completely drained, use a rag to wipe up any fluid that is sitting in the bottom of the bell housing.

Step 7: Replace the drain plug on the torque converter and tighten it to 14-28 ft.lbs.

Step 8: Replace the access plate on the flywheel cover and tighten the screws to about 15 ft.lbs.

Step 9: Put 6 quarts of new transmission fluid into the transmission through the dipstick/filler tube.

Step 10: Start the engine and allow it to run. (This lets the transmission fluid circulates throughout the transmission and torque converter.) Immediately go to Step 11. Do not wait for the engine to warm up.

Step 11: Put another 6 quarts of transmission fluid into the transmission through the dipstick/filler tube. The transmission and torque converter uses a total of 13.5 quarts of fluid.
In your case, put back the same amount that you drain out of the TC.
(C/o Jim)

 

Thanks for the procedure Vinny. The Bronco won't be subject to daily use at first, it's gonna sit with occasional road time for the better part of a year. I think that before Andy starts driving it daily, we will drain the pan and TC as you've instructed.

More updates to come!

 

yes you can get that filter at the autoparts store

 

Well guys - interesting and irritating development. Went to fire up the Bronco today to show the guys at the auto shop. Nothing. She cranks and cranks with no sign of coming to life...... Before it would crank for maybe 3-5 seconds and then kick to life, sort of like a carbed vehicle. It has reliably started 2 days in a row but not today. The tailpipe smells like old fuel so I think its getting fuel - haven't checked spark yet. Thoughts?

Also - gave it a first pass at pulling codes. Very confusing. I think this year EEC uses 2 digit codes? Not sure. If that is true then the codes it flashed were "23" and "32", then the same codes again. Not entirely sure how the process works, but I was able to jump the EEC test and get it to flash those codes. FWIW I wasn't able to warm it up for the test since it wouldn't start.

Really puzzled as to why it wouldn't start today, unless it really didn't like being back on the road!

EDIT: After doing some research and pulling codes again, in a KOEO test I got DTC codes 23 and 32, with code 32 also in CM. Looked them up on the Ford Fuel Injection website - shouldn't be anything to prevent it from starting.

 

Also can anyone tell me if this looks right? It looks to me like that plastic piece is broken and I don't know if that affects how the throttle blades open or anything? The throttle pedal doesn't seem to have as much range as the one in my pickup.

 

yeah, you still have 4 quart-ish of bad fluid in there, now mixing with the new.
You can see in this video why it is important to have clean fluid in the tranny.;

 

Put some fuel in a spray bottle and spray it in the Trottle Body to be sure you are getting fuel.
Pull a plug wire off and check for spark.
Check for voltage at the positive side of your coil while cranking, White/Light Blue wire.
If you have a 12 volt test light, check the negative side of the coil for flashing while you try to start. Dark Green/Yellow wire.

 

You should check the supply voltage to your TPS with the key on.
Orange/White wire.

Also measure the DG/LG wire voltage as well, @ closed throttle and @ WOT.

 

It's miserable to work outdoors right now, so of course that's where it's stuck. Pulled #1 plug wire off and grounded it with a screwdriver - we are getting spark. Used a water bottle with a small hole in the cap to pour gas down the TB - it coughed once but nothing. I'm thinking its a fuel problem, which is what I was afraid of.

It has a little less than 1/2 a tank of mixed 2 year old gas and new gas. We haven't changed any fuel system components (fuel filter) yet. Might go rent a fuel pressure tester. Any other home remedies to try first?

EDIT: Also - tried a can of starting fluid as a last resort - nothing. Another clue that might help some people figure out what it could be: the first time I ever fired it up (maybe a week ago) it fired up normally. I've started it 3 times since then. Each time it has needed longer and longer to crank before it's kicked to life. Drove around for the first time 2 days ago, parked it on an incline with the nose up and there she sits. Cranks but won't start - has randomly coughed maybe twice or three times in 2 days but aside from that no signs of life. It had ran a tad rough before - right up to the point where I cut it off with the key.

 

Checking the Fuel Pressure is a good check.
Check the quality of the spark, should be a crisp blue spark.
Keep the battery charged up.
I'm not a fan of starting fluid, I would try spraying a lot of high-test gas in the throttle body again.
Check your vacuum hoses.
Replace the fuel flter when you get the chance.
Check your spark plugs, pull one out, see what it looks like. Consider replacing them.