When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Last October I installed a genuine Denso starter, Northstar AGM batteries, Quick Start 160A alternator and doubled up on the positive and negative wiring. Truck turns over faster than my wives 2003 VW Beetle. The costs for the starter, batteries and alternator were a bit more than I would like to spend. But, the truck sits for a month or more at a time between uses and starts quickly each time after sitting. Money well spent in my opinion.
I am sure the upgraded wiring helps a bit, but not much for the starter because I installed the wiring a week or two after the starter, batteries and alternator. I upgraded the wiring to try and keep the alternator cooler and happy since it is an upgraded 160A output instead of the 140A (I think) OEM starter. In addition to the two B+ cables running directly to each battery, there is an additional ground from the case of the alternator that you can see running just in front of the AIS filter housing/clip. I also cleaned the 2 major engine grounds and made sure the clamps for the batteries were in top condition. I inspected the OEM cabling to insure there was no corrosion creeping in them too.
I have the IH water pump with the coolant filter integrated into the housing of the pump. You can see the pump there in the picture, it is the rusty colored part on the front of the engine because I neglected to paint it before installing it... This was the first part I ever replaced after buying the truck and was so concerned about not knowing the engine that the pump being made of cast iron completely slipped my mind until it was too late.
I have changed the filter 3 times in the nearly 5 years of owning the truck and after the first filter change, the filter folds just looked wet with no debris in them at all.
So the real question is Denso or OEM 6.7 with 7.3 nose?
I gotta say Denso especially going by that video. The nose cone swap would be cheaper if you didn’t go with an OEM 6.7 unit, but If you get an OEM 6.7 starter for the swap it’s the same price as a Denso.
I think the reason mine wasn’t all that it’s cracked up to be was because it was an Oriellys 6.7 starter made in Mexico or something.
Touchè. Go for good ole' American parts then. If I can find a 6.7 starter made in America, then go for it. If not, then Denso it is. Thanks for the advice and help guys, I really appreciate it.
Touchè. Go for good ole' American parts then. If I can find a 6.7 starter made in America, then go for it. If not, then Denso it is. Thanks for the advice and help guys, I really appreciate it.
We went full circle and right back to the genuine parts thing haha
I know it is pricey, but I really like the Denso starter. It was impressively heavy and felt very well built. Get the longer bolts that go into the trans case though if you do get a larger starter. The OEM bolts just don't reach far enough into the case to get a good bite.
Yeah, I realized that after I had posted it. Got back from work around 2am and thought it would be a good idea to hop on the forums. Don't worry, from here on out, I will make sure I forum responsibly.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
