Pertronix died.. again
What year is your truck Matt? What color is the wire you're using from the firewall? And what color is it at the back of the switch?
You say it's the stock original wire as far as you know, but does that mean the entire length, or just that you've been able to trace so far? Any sign of PO modifications and splices and such?
Does this mean that you bypassed the resistor wire under the dash yourself? Or you're using the stock setup and did not happen to find a resistor wire?
Might make a difference.
Good luck.
Paul
In regards to my wiring wiring, at one point I tried to trace the single wire on the positive side of the coil all the way back to the ignition but was unable to do so successfully due to time. I can assure you however that based on some of the splices I see, the wiring has been modified or changed because there is no pink wire I can find. when I bought the truck, the three wires that are on the coil today are the same three wires that were on the truck with the coil then. I ran points and condenser for several months before banging my head on the wall for the last time and switching to the pertronix unit. That being said I didn’t bother with wiring at all and that one lasted a year.
I have no doubt that there are grounding issues, and I believe those also contribute to the fact that my turn signals haven’t worked properly since I purchased it. Just gonna have to tackle them one at a time
I understand most of what I see in that diagram, it's amazing simple compared to most newer vehicles, but two connectors have me scratching my head. Connector "E" in bottom center, I'm guessing that goes to the auxiliary tank sender on dual tank trucks? Connector "H", why even put it there? Was there some accessory or factory option that would have plugged in right there if the vehicle was equipped, and if so what? Aside from that there is only one purpose I can think of for that connector, and I'm not going to mention it on open forum in case someone actually uses it for that.
Sorry for thread jacking!
Sounds like your PO took it out and spliced in some regular wire. Usually it's easy enough anyway, since the resistor wire is designed to get hotter as it does more work, it's usually routed outside of the main harness and has a heat-resistant outer sleeve around it.
Back to your issue, without any kind of a resistor, it seems like your Ignitor I module would be very happy as long as it's paired up with the correct coil. Pertronix recommends their 1.5ohm coil for a V8 with 12v and their .6ohm coil for 6v (or likely with a resistor).
With the Ignitor II they recommend the .6ohm coil for all engines.
They don't like the voltage to go too low, but that simply makes them run erratically and should not actually burn out the module from having too low. Or too high voltage for that matter, up to a point.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around electrical theory with regard to ignitions (we've discussed different aspects in different threads recently) but when the voltage goes down, does the current passing through the Ignitor go up?
And speaking of voltage... What does yours read when the engine is running? Should be approx. 14.5v or so. Could yours be running high perhaps? Maybe extra voltage from the alternator is hurting the distributor modules. Have you measured it recently?
You don't happen to ever test the ignition by pulling a spark plug wire and holding it near the engine to see if spark jumps by any chance. Do you? I've found that errant sparks too close to the distributor can actually cause the Ignitor to die a quick and early death.
Just throwing that into the mix in case you were trying to track down an ignition issue with the old "pull the wire and see if it sparks" method.
Good luck.
Paul
Connector "E" in bottom center, I'm guessing that goes to the auxiliary tank sender on dual tank trucks? Connector "H", why even put it there? Was there some accessory or factory option that would have plugged in right there if the vehicle was equipped, and if so what?
Sorry for thread jacking!
Or it could be a mistake. Would not be the first time we've seen a mistake, even in factory diagrams. Not too often, but it happens.
Or, the shape of the connector and the color of the other wire makes me think of the neutral safety switch connector on some Fords. I wonder if that's what's going on there. Maybe just not showing all the possibilities. Automatics would have been available in '68, but I don't see any mention of an NSS in either diagram. Maybe an oversight?
Dunno...
But it's a cool thing to discuss somewhere. We might want to talk about it in another thread though, so we don't segué too far off the original subject.
Paul
The 1281 is the basic "Ignitor 1" module. It must see a primary circuit resistance of at least 1.5 ohms. If the stock ballast resistor is in circuit then a 0.7 ohm coil would be OK. If not, not. The module doesn't want more than about 8 amps. Ohm's Law will tell you what the current draw is in your ignition.
Sorry for thread jacking!
Connector H was in fact hooked to a neutral safety switch for automatic trucks. M/T truck got the shown jumper. This should have been noted in the schematic.











