Pertronix died.. again
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Pertronix died.. again
This is the second time this year my 1281 pertronix unit has died. As I am not an electrician help me understand what could be killing them. The last one only made it 4 months. I’ve always been told that heat kills electronics, but people have them for years without issues.
Heres the the rest of my setup.
new solenoid.
new battery,
new dizzy cap and rotor.
Blaster II with no resister
anyone else had this issue with them being defective.
Heres the the rest of my setup.
new solenoid.
new battery,
new dizzy cap and rotor.
Blaster II with no resister
anyone else had this issue with them being defective.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
i just put on the blaster 2 and y’all are saying I should take it back off unless i want to burn #3?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 4
From: Cupertino
These Pertronix units are widely used and are regarded as bulletproof..
Go back to the pink wire and stock coil. ND will give you the part number and resistance of the resistive wire. They are easily obtained.
Go back to the pink wire and stock coil. ND will give you the part number and resistance of the resistive wire. They are easily obtained.
Trending Topics
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Pertronix lists two coils: 1.5 ohm, 3.0 ohm. I would assume the 1.5 is for 6v cars, the 3.0 is for 12v cars. Either way, that equates to 4 amps( 6/1.5=4, 12/3=4)
The B2 is listed at .7 ohm. 12/.7=17 amps. That will draw too much current for the Pertronix. Even using the actual ~9volt you get with the pink ignition wire the current is too much with B2. 9/.7=12.8 amp. Pertronix needs to be around 3-4 amps. Using the right Pertronix coil: 9v/3.0= 3 amps.
Going by the information from Pertronix, you need a 3.0 ohm coil. Anything smaller will draw too much current and burn it up. The information I see from google, the stock Ford coil is .7 ohm. Again, too small.
This is from their website:
The B2 is listed at .7 ohm. 12/.7=17 amps. That will draw too much current for the Pertronix. Even using the actual ~9volt you get with the pink ignition wire the current is too much with B2. 9/.7=12.8 amp. Pertronix needs to be around 3-4 amps. Using the right Pertronix coil: 9v/3.0= 3 amps.
Going by the information from Pertronix, you need a 3.0 ohm coil. Anything smaller will draw too much current and burn it up. The information I see from google, the stock Ford coil is .7 ohm. Again, too small.
This is from their website:
- System is designed for use with most point-type coils, optimal performance achieved when used with our Flame-Thrower® 40,000 volt coil.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 7
From: Gainesville, GA
I'm using their coil for several years with no trouble. I had another brand point replacement first for a bunch of years but it gave up the ghost. Another thing is I didn't have to set the points for years and the distributor froze in the block and had to be destroyed to remove, so move it occasionally.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Pertronix lists two coils: 1.5 ohm, 3.0 ohm. I would assume the 1.5 is for 6v cars, the 3.0 is for 12v cars. Either way, that equates to 4 amps( 6/1.5=4, 12/3=4)
The B2 is listed at .7 ohm. 12/.7=17 amps. That will draw too much current for the Pertronix. Even using the actual ~9volt you get with the pink ignition wire the current is too much with B2. 9/.7=12.8 amp. Pertronix needs to be around 3-4 amps. Using the right Pertronix coil: 9v/3.0= 3 amps.
Going by the information from Pertronix, you need a 3.0 ohm coil. Anything smaller will draw too much current and burn it up. The information I see from google, the stock Ford coil is .7 ohm. Again, too small.
This is from their website:
The B2 is listed at .7 ohm. 12/.7=17 amps. That will draw too much current for the Pertronix. Even using the actual ~9volt you get with the pink ignition wire the current is too much with B2. 9/.7=12.8 amp. Pertronix needs to be around 3-4 amps. Using the right Pertronix coil: 9v/3.0= 3 amps.
Going by the information from Pertronix, you need a 3.0 ohm coil. Anything smaller will draw too much current and burn it up. The information I see from google, the stock Ford coil is .7 ohm. Again, too small.
This is from their website:
- System is designed for use with most point-type coils, optimal performance achieved when used with our Flame-Thrower® 40,000 volt coil.
Hmm..
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Part number B6A12029B. Stock points style coil. May only be approx. 22000 volts, but look at all the Ford Muscle cars it powered in the 60s.
Green Sales has both parts.
(800) 543-4959
These places have the C0LF12250A.
Boss Motors
These places have the C0LF12250A.
Boss Motors
800-453-3696
xNos Parts Source *Fo
913.220.5746
K.C. Motor Company
Recently Updated
K.C. Motor Company
Recently Updated
Part Number:COLF12250A
Seller:K.C. Motor Company
Phone (561) 722-6208
McDonald Obsolete Parts
Seller:K.C. Motor Company
Phone (561) 722-6208
McDonald Obsolete Parts
Part Number:COLF12250-A
SellerMcDonald Obsolete Parts
Phone(812) 359-4965
SellerMcDonald Obsolete Parts
Phone(812) 359-4965
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
The 1281 "Ignitor 1" needs a minimum of 1.5 ohms in the primary ignition circuit. Anything less it will burn up the module. It's not really the voltage that causes problems, it's the current (amperes).
One thing to look for otherwise is poor grounds at the engine, distributor housing &c. High resistance grounds and connections cause trouble, loose or intermittent connections can cause voltage spikes that might fry a module too. Make certain engine grounds and distributor grounds are solid. Has the block been painted maybe?
One thing to look for otherwise is poor grounds at the engine, distributor housing &c. High resistance grounds and connections cause trouble, loose or intermittent connections can cause voltage spikes that might fry a module too. Make certain engine grounds and distributor grounds are solid. Has the block been painted maybe?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
right, that’s why I switched to it... that’s why I’m baffled.... let’s just throw it out there that the pink wire has been MIA since I’ve owned the truck so it sounds like I need to go digging behind the cluster. Yikes!
So when I called the manufacturer about this, they told me the unit will operate correctly without the flamethrower 40k as long as I’m using the stock coil at .7. Now this is why I assumed that the blaster II would be fine.
Hmm..
That is the strange part, they list the resistance of the coils they recommend, but then tell you that it can run on less resistance(more current). It's like 4X what they call for. Throw that in plus the fact you are using 12v instead of ~9v and that ups the anty again. I just can't see that little "electronic switch" carrying a constant, repeating 15+ amps for a long time. 3-4 Amp? Ya, sounds plausible. Heat is the enemy of any electronic circuit, and likely why yours fails over time. I would just recommend using THEIR coil and install a resistor to cut the power to the common 9 volts and see if it doesn't survive a much longer time.
I just put a Unilite in my one hot rod, along with a 6AL box. I used the pink wire to run it all(powers the Unilite and tells the MSD to turn on). Seems to work fine, time will tell if it last my lifetime(with the random usage it gets).
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,591
Likes: 1,171
From: San Jose, CA
So are you guys saying that the resistor wire is Pink it's entire length from ignition switch to the coil? On the ones I've worked on it was Red w/green from the firewall to the coil, Pink resistor under the dash. With some that were even Red w/green right at the ignition switch even.
What year is your truck Matt? What color is the wire you're using from the firewall? And what color is it at the back of the switch?
You say it's the stock original wire as far as you know, but does that mean the entire length, or just that you've been able to trace so far? Any sign of PO modifications and splices and such?
Does this mean that you bypassed the resistor wire under the dash yourself? Or you're using the stock setup and did not happen to find a resistor wire?
Might make a difference.
Good luck.
Paul
What year is your truck Matt? What color is the wire you're using from the firewall? And what color is it at the back of the switch?
You say it's the stock original wire as far as you know, but does that mean the entire length, or just that you've been able to trace so far? Any sign of PO modifications and splices and such?
Might make a difference.
Good luck.
Paul
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
So are you guys saying that the resistor wire is Pink it's entire length from ignition switch to the coil? On the ones I've worked on it was Red w/green from the firewall to the coil, Pink resistor under the dash. With some that were even Red w/green right at the ignition switch even.
What year is your truck Matt? What color is the wire you're using from the firewall? And what color is it at the back of the switch?
You say it's the stock original wire as far as you know, but does that mean the entire length, or just that you've been able to trace so far? Any sign of PO modifications and splices and such?
Does this mean that you bypassed the resistor wire under the dash yourself? Or you're using the stock setup and did not happen to find a resistor wire?
Might make a difference.
Good luck.
Paul
What year is your truck Matt? What color is the wire you're using from the firewall? And what color is it at the back of the switch?
You say it's the stock original wire as far as you know, but does that mean the entire length, or just that you've been able to trace so far? Any sign of PO modifications and splices and such?
Does this mean that you bypassed the resistor wire under the dash yourself? Or you're using the stock setup and did not happen to find a resistor wire?
Might make a difference.
Good luck.
Paul
