Hey folks. Sorry if this is a repeat question. I searched and read up on related posts but still have a question I'm hoping you can help with.

Just picked up a new barn find that hasn't been started in 20 years. All original 65 with the 352, 4 on floor...

Got the engine turning and hope to get her started this weekend. Testing basic systems first... Replaced coil and plopped a new battery in it.

Not getting spark from the coil. When key is in on position, I get power to positive terminal on coil. But also on negative... When I start it and engine turns, there is no power coming from coil to distributor cap.

I did find something I think weird in distributor. Looks like a ground wire or something is not connected. I'll add photo once I figure out how.



See that wire only connected to the base? Where does the other side go?

Should I be getting power from both positive nod negative terminals on coil when key is in on position?

I swapped out the solenoid also...

 

If you can find a better one that might be nice.

But that has to be connected to where the point is installed at that screw! It grounds the point body, won't run without it iirc? Could be wrong, often am.

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Better? You mean photo? Hope you're kidding! Lol

 

No. The photo is adequate. The ground wire is not. But if connected it may work, sort of. Will definitely keep from spark if hanging like that.

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Ahh. Got it. So that screw at the base of points... Ok, I'll connect that. I can probably make a new ground wire.

 

Also test the wire that runs from the coil to the points....they often break inside the insulation, even if they look fine.

 

There are two types of ground wires (12264), either type will work. One is braided, one has a black vinyl cover.

Both used 1961/73 on all V8's, 1974/75 without DuraSpark.

 

Thanks guys. I connected that ground wire this morning, but still don't see spark. I'll try changing out the wire from coil to distributor and the ground wire this afternoon.

let me explain how I'm "testing" it. maybe that's wrong...

I have one of those simple 12 volt lights.. touch one end to ground and the other to power and it lights up.

I put the light on the battery negative. then use the probe/clip end and touch parts where I think power should be. when in the on position, and I touch the + terminal on coil, I get power (light), when I touch the - terminal on the coil I also get light (in on position). Then I disconnect the main wire from the coil to the distributor (center plug wire), and clip one end of the light tester to it, I get no light. I leave it connected like that and try starting it... well, just turn the key and the engine turns over... but no lights. I expect that as I turn the key to start... there should be juice coming through that wire to the top of the distributor cap. but nothing.

I also opened the cap and when I touch certain parts of the points, I get light. But again, I think that's just because there is juice on the negative side of the coil in the on position..

Is there another way I can test this? I don't have an ohm meter.. well, I do, but burnt it up last year... lol


Matt

 

Disconnect that ground wire in your picture from both ends and dress up the surfaces with a file or pocketknife till you see shiny metal. Looks pretty rusty. If that little wire connection is bad at either end it will not spark, honest injun'.

Check the primary and secondary windings on the coil for ballpark ohm figures and remove and reattach the main engine block to battery connection. The condensers are usually fine tho not unheard of. Tech..needs to be about 0.2 ūf and/or roughly matched to whatever particular coil is installed. Unless somebody has been in there (never mind, still) should spark.

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uh. still struggling with getting spark. I cleaned or replaced the wires. replaced wire from distributer to coil..

I ordered one of those petronix ignitor thingies to replace points with that electronic business... refuse to give up trying to figure out why I can get spark out of the coil!

brand new coil.. Duralast C819

I'm stumped. any more suggestions?

 

As a practical matter, if you are going to a Pertronix it makes sense to also use a high output coil. The Ignitor wants full 12 volts , so with these you also want full battery voltage at the coil at all times. (Stock coils used a resistor wire from the ignition switch to provide a reduced voltage in the RUN position (after starting.))

Points would burn out otherwise, or coils, or somesuch. Anyway, use a Pertronix and say, a Flamethrower coil 40k and you can open the plug gap up to around .045 and improve idle even more.

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I think Tin was suggesting you replace the black wire from the points to the coil. I second that.
Eric

 

Are the points gapped correctly? Also, if the condenser is bad, you wont get spark. Those components are 20 years old, it wouldn't hurt to buy a new set of points and a condenser.