Not bad at all! I think my harness will be fine, thanks. If that dentist didn't come highly recommended I wouldn't go, my ***** aren't that big! lol

 

Your sister-in-law is a wise person.

Come on Hit Man, we have very good professionals here.

Well I suppose you are right with that "old bird"

!!! VIVA MEXICO ¡¡¡¡

 

Ha, I know. Even here we have many bad physicians! Just teasing.



I have my spare alt/AC harness if you want it. Need to clean it up a bit as I disassembled it some to make that 30A relay setup to make A/C work.

 

Thanks Eric, I'll just solder the bad wires and I'll be good. I'll get back to the A/C when I get done with my wife's new 2002 VW Beetle TDI auto.

 

Sorry about the delay. I bought a AC cycling switch, accumulator drier, orifice, clutch cycle switch, HNBR O rings, and nylog sealant. I took the whole system apart, blew it out with compressed air and checked the compressor for oil, there wasn't any! There wasn't a drop of freon in the system. Something must have happened when those wires got into the pulley and made the system blow everything out. I added oil to the compressor and put it all back together today. I put the vacuum pump on it for 45 minutes and the pressure is still holding four hours later. Tomorrow I'll try charging it and see what happens. Even though I soldered the damaged wires I ran a check on the wires. At the cycling switch with the key on engine off I'm getting juice at one of the wires but nothing at the clutch cycle switch. I read where you can jump the wires at the cycling switch and get continuity at the clutch switch but I don't. Anyway I'll see what happens when I put the freon in tomorrow.

 

Cold air! I had trouble getting the freon in there because I think my supply line on my manifold set is clogged. I used a hose off of a store bought can of freon and got the system filled. At first the compressor would not kick on so I jumped the clutch low pressure switch and it came on, yeah! After a can and a half I was able to take the jumper off and the clutch would cycle on and off. Put about 3 cans in and on a 82°day got pressures up to 35 low and 200 high at high idle. At low idle I was at 47 low side and 235 on the high side. I thought about adding some more but according to the sticker I was maxed out. I have an extra can for just in case. Thanks for all your help guys!

 

47 low and 235 high side at idle is perfect for 82 degrees ambient air temp. what was your center vent temp with with AC set to max air high fan?
if it was mid 40's or lower you are golden.

 

BTW, when charging AC i tend to i use this chart instead of lbs of refrigerant :

 

IDK Tom, I'll have to get a temp gauge to see. I was using this chart: http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/hvac-02.htm, close enough I guess.

I hate mysteries, I still would want to know what caused all the freon and even the oil to go bye bye. Oh well, at least it works now. I was worried about the wiring but now I think the PCM grounds that wire to the clutch cycling switch to turn the clutch on and off.

I also hope I got enough oil in there, all I did was fill the empty compressor which amounts to about half what it said on that sticker.

 

Mine holds 38oz, so three, 12oz cans from Wally or Mcparts is 94.7% charged. Works fine in my climate. I posted my head pressures in the build thread, they were from June so expect yours a bit difference depending on the climate.

I know all there is about that PCM wire, it just bumps the idle a hair. ECU receives a 12V input from that green/orange (Pin 41)...on mine it was touching a ground wire (Pin 42) and pop went the fuse every time. **** in dash sends 12V out to a small plug (purple wire I think), then to the low pressure switch. When system full enough, switch closes and makes it cycle if pressure drops too low...to prevent freezing of the evap. Power simply flows out of that low pressure switch through that harness. Diode there to keep power flow one way. Black and white at compressor are power and grounds. High switch normally closed and power flows accordingly.

I can send you schematics if needed. It is a really simple circuit. What threw me was the damned ECU pin, ****er looked fully inserted but was not!

Cheap refrigerant detectors can help you source the leak. That is how I know mine is at the high side port, hoses leak naturally a bit too. Condenser could have a pinhole leak too. Is it oily?

 

After the three cans I put a little dye in with a few more ounces of freon, maybe not a good idea but its oil too and I wasn't sure if I got enough oil in there. The amount of freon should be about right. No leaks so far and it held vacuum for 17 hours so I think I'm good. I got a schematic but I'm not good at all reading them. Its great you figured out pin 42, that must have been a challenge!

 

Phew, that ECU pin track down drove me nuts!