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You're right about the clutch. Pressure doesn't matter if you have 12V across the clutch, it will engage. Pressure switches keep the 12V from getting to the clutch.
Just guessing but there's a good chance your engine swapper didn't use new o-rings in your AC or just threw it together as an afterthought. Look at all the joints for oil accumulation indicating a leak. To be fair, these are old trucks and old AC can leak anytime, anywhere.
OK, I just used a wire from the positive on the battery and touched each one of the spades and nothing happened. I couldn't tell what wire went down to the clutch like I think Tom said. Or, do I just put the positive wire across the two spades? Thanks for you help, the wiring diagram too!
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
I am finishing up a house install, lemme know if you want to borrow refrigerant detector.
DO NOT charge it without it being under vacuum
Sounds good Eric. I have a vacuum machine at home but not a refrigerant detector. I should be home tomorrow night but after six months on the road there will be a million things to do around the house plus unloading the 5er. I think I better take that wire harness all apart to make sure its all OK. I hope I didn't fry something.
two wire on the clutch plug means: one positive, and one negative.
i can not tell you which one is which though. to figure that out, put test light alligator clip on positive battery terminal. then touch test light to the wires on the truck side of the plug. negative wire will light up the test light, positive will not.
now you know which one is which.
put jumper from negative side to negative of battery, or to ground. then jump 12 volts to positive side and the clutch should lock up.
Well, after 10K miles and six months the house took priority when I got home. But, I did do your test Tom and the clutch works fine. The gauges show zero pressure in the system. The harness that dropped down (not sure if I mentioned this) that rubbed on the tensioner pulley didn't break any wires but four wires were broken open and I think two of the bare spots were together. No oily spots so I'm thinking that the high pressure valve blew all the freon out because its a little oily under that valve. I jumped the clutch and ran it a little and no cold air. I'm looking at a new alternator harness or just repairing mine. Not sure what you call it but the accumulator plug-in thing probably should be replaced then charge the system, I guess?
yup. what i would do is replace any o-ring the hack that put the engine in touched. then pull vacuum on the system for at least 1 hour and shut the pump and valves off, leaving it sit for 24 hours or so and see if it holds, or if there are still any leaks before charging it.
if i remember correctly, you need 3 lbs R-134A, or 4 12 ounce cans
Really consider a fresh evap, you will be surprised at the amount of **** in them with age...mine just POURS water out since it is clean. toss on that heater core shutoff for Max AC while in there.
If you want to make fresh hoses, I will send you my tool. Super easy.
At first I looked for a replacement harness. No luck except a used one on feebay for $80 that didn't look any better then mine zooming in on it. I'll do the solding thing. First, I have to get a broken tooth fixed .