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Hey y'all,
I'm sure it's been covered. If it has, please point me in the right direction. (I'm the new kid here, first day)
I just bought a 2004 f250. Inpicked it up pretty cheap, because it runs rough. I was told by a mechanic that it was the IPR valve. So I replaced that, and it still runs rough. It almost sounds like a misfire to me. However, I have no CEL. I picked up a ScanGuard 2, and it shows no codes. (I also know nothing about how to actually use the ScanGuard so help there would be appreciated). Where should I go from here? I'll try to get a video of it running uploaded at some point.
Welcome to the club.Scanguage isn't a great code reader.Torquepro or Forscan is a better bet. You have to get a OBDll dongel off eBay and down load the app for either. Both are about 5 bucks and the reader is about 20 shipped. Best money you will ever spend for your 6.0.
When we were 6.0 newbs, the truck had a rough idle and would shake shifting into high gear.
Decided to spend some time with the dealer and they ran it through a thorough diagnosis.
Gave us a print out showing engine parameters, engine was healthy, suspected one bad injector.
We purchased an injector and installed it in the driveway and it ran great afterwards.
Dealer changed us $169, great bargain to get a health check and diagnosis on the new to us truck.
Welcome to the club.Scanguage isn't a great code reader.Torquepro or Forscan is a better bet. You have to get a OBDll dongel off eBay and down load the app for either. Both are about 5 bucks and the reader is about 20 shipped. Best money you will ever spend for your 6.0.
X2 for forscan, works very well, make sure you get the right adapter - iPhone needs WiFi dongle to connect, and don't forget to unplug it if you park next to the house or you'll have fun connecting to the internet afterwards.
I use TorquePro and have different pages set up for driving or diagnostics.The only thing TorquePro won't do is read fuel pressure. There are a lot of members here who will provide information.
I'll have to look into those readers for sure.
so what parameters should I be reading, and what might cause a rough run? I can't find the proper parameters anywhere.
I'll have to look into those readers for sure.
so what parameters should I be reading, and what might cause a rough run? I can't find the proper parameters anywhere.
Download Forscan or if you have access to a scanner that can perform " Injector Buzz Test ". The test will allow you to listen to the injectors "click". The test will begin with key on engine off, and will first chatter all the injectors at once. After that the test will begin to "click" each injector in number order, cylinder 1, 2, 3.......ending on cylinder 8. If at any point you don't hear an injector then that is a suspect for a rough running engine.
From there check harness. You can also ohm out the injector coils at the plug to see if a cool is bad. At the injector plug, You would ohm pin 1 to pin 2 for one coil. Then pin 3 to 4 for the other. If you get no reading then it's bad.
Without Ford's scanner (IDS), that's where I'd start.
you can also ohm out the injector coils at the plug to see if a cool is bad. At the injector plug, You would ohm pin 1 to pin 2 for one coil. Then pin 3 to 4 for the other. If you get no reading then it's bad.
Without Ford's scanner (IDS), that's where I'd start.
How do I ohm the injector coils? I have a voltmeter that reads ohms... I just don't know how...
Set the meter to Ohms, or if it has continuity with a tone to that.
Wow that worked wonders. I was able to isolate an injector that was bad, tracked down a new one an hour away.
After changing it out, and getting it running again. It solved about 85% of my problem. There's still a little lag when I step on it (seems like it's not got 100% power.) But the engine is running good now! Thanks!
(Although in taking the turbo off and back on from when I replaced the IPR valve I now have a air leak somewhere. So I gotta track that down)
You can still have a bad injector. Checking resistance will tell if the injectors electrical components are in spec. They can also have physical problems like worn spool valves or stiction from accumulating debris. When you get a code reader check for cylinder misfires.
Wow that worked wonders. I was able to isolate an injector that was bad, tracked down a new one an hour away.
After changing it out, and getting it running again. It solved about 85% of my problem. There's still a little lag when I step on it (seems like it's not got 100% power.) But the engine is running good now! Thanks!
(Although in taking the turbo off and back on from when I replaced the IPR valve I now have a air leak somewhere. So I gotta track that down)
You likely didn't get one of the clamps lined up spot on.
Loosen the four turbo pedestal bolts, then realign the two clamps and snug to spec.
Tighten up and torque the four pedestal bolts down and you should be good to go.