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Only way to get an accurate answer is if someone tested both starters on the same vehicle, on the same day. The fact the newer starter spins faster and starts the motor sooner... would lead me to believe the newer starter would draw less amps overall. Since the motor starts sooner, the alternator can begin charging while the glow plugs are still drawing power. But I've been wrong before.....
Well with your cabling mods and 2 Odyssey Extreme batts, my starter pulls 188 RPM (but you know that). I wonder if just fresh batts and balanced cabling will produce similar results across 6.0 starters, or if mine is just "special" (well I always like to think it is...).
This I found interesting: I have been running Torque logs and capturing starting data for some time. When my batteries were older and not all my cabling was done, I was seeing starter RPM like Jacks video - in the 150s rpm, however the engine caught and started in 1.2 seconds. Roll forward to better batteries and better balanced cabling and I get into the 180s starter RPM - BUT The Engine takes 1.5 to 2 seconds of cranking!
One thing that someone with more knowledge than I might be able to help with, is I changed my starting procedure when cold. I used to leave the key in the ON position until everything stopped: fuel pump, vacuum pump, etc. and that would have been those early logs. I then changed to as soon as the GP light goes out I hit the starter.
Maybe it is good for the truck to roll over longer at slow rpm, maybe building some LPO pressure?? All I know is I have the data, and that's what it says, and the engine fired quicker under the old start technique and at Lower Starter RPM. Theories anyone??
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