Convince me
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 1
Convince me
So its been about a couple months on and off that I've been thinking about swapping out my 300 for a 351w. The other day I was browsing around on craigslist like I always do and boom this guy is selling a 351w with 70k for 250 bucks. Honestly i dont believe that it has 70k but i havent called the guy and its not far from where i live. So this is where you guys come in convince me why i shouldn't turn to the dark side. My truck isn't a daily driver anymore and I use it to haul things around every once it a while. It only come out in spring/summer time little bit of fall too. I do love the reliability of the six and she runs flawlessly the engine turns heads all the time at the car shows.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
If you don't drive it all that often, then why bother with swapping in a 351? You'd also need the radiator, hoses, and (more difficult to source) the frame perches since it doesn't bolt in the same way. If you don't have them, you'd have to pull an engine at the junk yard to be able to get to them (and they're riveted on, and a pain to remove).
You've done work on your 300, so it's numbers are already closing in on a stock 351.
Just seems like a lot of work for no real reason.
My thoughts.
You've done work on your 300, so it's numbers are already closing in on a stock 351.
Just seems like a lot of work for no real reason.
My thoughts.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 1
If you don't drive it all that often, then why bother with swapping in a 351? You'd also need the radiator, hoses, and (more difficult to source) the frame perches since it doesn't bolt in the same way. If you don't have them, you'd have to pull an engine at the junk yard to be able to get to them (and they're riveted on, and a pain to remove).
You've done work on your 300, so it's numbers are already closing in on a stock 351.
Just seems like a lot of work for no real reason.
My thoughts.
You've done work on your 300, so it's numbers are already closing in on a stock 351.
Just seems like a lot of work for no real reason.
My thoughts.
Thank you AB!! I was convincing myself while i was typing that thread out. It was also my first engine that i rebuilt myself!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 1
But it sounds sooo cool to say! If i could get the scorpion 1.7 rockers on my six and go back to the hedman header i think ill be a happy camper
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
I think doing that would be lot easier, less time consuming, and less expensive than a V8 swap.
Honestly, I love saying I have an inline 6.
If you tell someone you have a V8, it's a "Yeah? Who doesn't?"
It's almost trivial.
But tell them you have an 300 inline 6 and it's something different, and worth paying attention to.
Honestly, I love saying I have an inline 6.
If you tell someone you have a V8, it's a "Yeah? Who doesn't?"
It's almost trivial.
But tell them you have an 300 inline 6 and it's something different, and worth paying attention to.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,298
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
Usually I tell people "if you are asking people to convince you not to swap to a V8. Then you should probably just do the V8 swap. Because you probably won't be happy with the 6 no matter what you do to it. " But in your case, unless you absolutely have to have the V8 sound. I just don't see what benefit you would be gaining. Except a lighter wallet.
There is a lot more required to do a swap then just the engine. And all that stuff adds up real quick.
There is a lot more required to do a swap then just the engine. And all that stuff adds up real quick.
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Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Yup, just swapped from a 302 to a 300, and the engine itself was the easy part.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,298
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From: South central, Minnesota
That's why if I'm doing the swap I like to pick up a complete donor truck/Bronco, etc. that's around the same age/model as mine. That way I know I've got every little piece/part that may be required. Except for the parts I'm replacing/upgrading, like exhaust parts. It may cost more up front but saves a bunch in the end. Plus then you also end up with a bunch of spare parts to keep or sell. Or at the very least a bunch of scrap metal to sell. If you do things right you can get back your investment in the donor and possibly make a profit. Or if you have lots of time and energy you could do the double swap and resell the donor with your old engine. But doing that stuff takes a lot of time, patience and space to work.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,298
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
With the OD I would have went with something in the 3.73-4.10 range . That would give you the most bang for the buck. And it wouldn't be doggy in OD. The 3.55's will be a big improvement over the 3.08's. But 3.73's or 4.10's would be even better. I usual go with 3.55 or 3.73's without OD in half tons.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
That's awesome. I had 3.00s in my '81 and it originally had the SROD overdrive transmission. It was pretty doggy. When I went to 31" tires, the overdrive RPMs were so low it was nearly useless.
I decided to go with a non-overdrive transmission and gain a granny gear, mainly because the SROD was a really lightweight weak little thing.
In your case though, going to 3.55s is going to make a huge difference. That's a 15% increase in torque throughout.
If you're not looking for a daily driver, I do mirror fordman's advice with the 4.10s. You'll notice a HUGE jump in torque that way, and still have respectable RPMs on the interstate. Something to decide on now before you go through all the work of installing them.
Either way, you'll feel like you have a whole new truck when you hit the go pedal!
I decided to go with a non-overdrive transmission and gain a granny gear, mainly because the SROD was a really lightweight weak little thing.
In your case though, going to 3.55s is going to make a huge difference. That's a 15% increase in torque throughout.
If you're not looking for a daily driver, I do mirror fordman's advice with the 4.10s. You'll notice a HUGE jump in torque that way, and still have respectable RPMs on the interstate. Something to decide on now before you go through all the work of installing them.
Either way, you'll feel like you have a whole new truck when you hit the go pedal!
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 1
I think I'm gonna take my chances with the 3.55 gears. I dont wanna go all out and get 4.10 gears and have it screaming bloody murder when I drive it. Granted its not a daily driver but i just wanna test the waters first and see where this gets me.