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So I've been reading and getting great information from this group for 13 years or more. I finally went and started my engine build for the '02 350. I had a solid 99.5 out of my original truck in Fla with only 120k on it, 50k of which I put on it myself, and always planned to build it right for the '02 since I bought her 5 years ago. So, the older motor has been sitting, under cover but in a somewhat salty and occasionally damp environment. I am doing just about everything I am comfortable trying to do by myself to update and renew the motor and even pushing the envelope on that. I basically tore everything down last week and found a couple of items that are in need of attention due to corrosion. First, I pulled the front cover off as there was quite a bit of white aluminum oxidation. I guess the areas which were the water jacket got pretty badly corroded but I seem to have managed to clean it up quite well and have a new gasket set on the way from Clay. I also noticed quite a bit of surface rust inside the valve covers. Initially it didn't look too bad but today I decided to pull the injector, rocker arm and pushrod from the worst one. I have attached some pictures for reference. I cleaned everything up pretty well but am a little concerned. I got the motor tilted over so nothing could fall DOWN into the bottom but there is probably some loose, very minor surface rust left in the cavity right below the top of the head. I cleaned it out with a little oil on a toothbrush then got in again with a rag on a toothbrush to clean and dry it out. I will prbably try to brush it again with a clean brush then vac it tomorrow. What I am wondering is; I think it should be air with oil (under no pressure) when the engine is running, is that right? So, surrounding the pushrod where it comes up through the holes, where would any tiny debris from that area work it's way to eventually? Would it end up in the oil? If so, should flushing an oil change through it after 50 easy miles do the trick?
Any other thoughts or ideas while I am in there? I don't want to pull the heads if I don't have to btw.
Thanks as always for your insights and advice.
Cheers,
If I pull the heads I'd need new head gaskets correct? Parts are a problem for me as it would add 3-4 weeks onto my build. I am on an island. Can the heads ever be removed and replaced using original gaskets/ rtv or can I just expect the little bits of surface rust to drop out in the oil later?
I'd take a brass brush to all the rust I can see, clean it out, then bolt it up and run it. Change the oil filter after 5 minutes of operation, and again after 10 minutes, then again. Keep oil level up at each new filter. The idea is to allow the oil circulation to bring the gunk to the filter and swap in a fresh one before the old one gets clogged. Filters are cheap. New oil after say 100 miles and call it good.
YMMV but I have a ton of confidence in the engineering of these engines.
Every grain of rust, dirt, sand and other debris is going to end up in your oil supply and anything that gets past the oil filter is going to score the crank main bearings and the rod bearings before making its way to the HPOP where it will score the pump and ruin it. In other words the internals need to be spotless clean.
A proper engine assembly room is basically a clean room, not aerospace or computer class but none the less they are very clean environments.
as a shade tree hack you might be able to get it clean enough by pulling the pan and flushing the top of the motor by running paint thinner or kerosene from the top end down through the pan, The trouble with that is the solvent is going to also flush away any assembly lube on the bearing surfaces it contacts so you are going to need a way to pressurize prime the oil system adequately before even attempting to start it. And as mentioned change filters after doing a prime and then again after starting g and then again after a short run.....in other words you have good cause to be paranoid.
If it were mine and considering the expense of these motors I would completely disassemble the the motor and clean it before doing a proper assembly.
Thanks for all the responses guys. I was kinda hoping that the oil filter would do the dirty work for me but Pirate4x4, you make a great point. I am this far in so really guess I should order gaskets and pull the heads to do it right. I always figured it'd be an easy swap with such low miles and use on this motor but I never banked on having the rust from it sitting. I will take lotsa pics and detail the build soon for anyone interested and thanks again for the input.
Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
Every grain of rust, dirt, sand and other debris is going to end up in your oil supply and anything that gets past the oil filter is going to score the crank main bearings and the rod bearings before making its way to the HPOP where it will score the pump and ruin it. In other words the internals need to be spotless clean.
A proper engine assembly room is basically a clean room, not aerospace or computer class but none the less they are very clean environments.
as a shade tree hack you might be able to get it clean enough by pulling the pan and flushing the top of the motor by running paint thinner or kerosene from the top end down through the pan, The trouble with that is the solvent is going to also flush away any assembly lube on the bearing surfaces it contacts so you are going to need a way to pressurize prime the oil system adequately before even attempting to start it. And as mentioned change filters after doing a prime and then again after starting g and then again after a short run.....in other words you have good cause to be paranoid.
If it were mine and considering the expense of these motors I would completely disassemble the the motor and clean it before doing a proper assembly.
If I pull the heads I'd need new head gaskets correct? Parts are a problem for me as it would add 3-4 weeks onto my build. I am on an island. Can the heads ever be removed and replaced using original gaskets/ rtv or can I just expect the little bits of surface rust to drop out in the oil later?
Here is my thought.
I'm not trying to be mean, at all. But if you don't know about using new head gaskets after pulling a head off....I'd recommend you stay away from rebuilding the engine.
I guess if I knew how to do everything I've ever done in life before I started it I'd never have done much. Thanks for your input Dan.
Originally Posted by Dan V
Here is my thought.
I'm not trying to be mean, at all. But if you don't know about using new head gaskets after pulling a head off....I'd recommend you stay away from rebuilding the engine.
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