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Offset is sort of a stupid metric because it changes depending on the width of the wheel. 0 offset on a 9" wide rim is not the same as 0 offset on a 10' wide rim. But 5" backspace is 5" backspace no matter what.
Finally! Somebody who sees the obvious.
I thought I was going nuts. The last time I went wheel shopping, in the dinosaur days before being able to order any wheel spec you want online........almost every tire & wheel store clerk had no idea what offset & backspace actually meant. For whatever reason, a lot of the inventory back then only offered the offset spec, and did not even list the backspace. You had to physically measure the wheel yourself, if it was in the store. And store clerks have no clue.......they kept insisting that "XXXX of offset should work just fine". No. You have no idea what will actually fit unless you know the backspace.
Tricon, I hold your word in very high regard on this site because you are very knowledgeable when it comes to these Alumidutys. I know backspace should be the standard to go by, but I started thinking that no matter how wide the wheel is, its' still in a 12.5" tire. So, overall the width is the same whether I run a 9" wheel or 11" wheel right? So my overthinking flawed logic got me wondering since the overall width is the same, if I do a +0mm offset on the 22x11, shouldn't it still push the wheel/tire out more?
Carli says you need 5" of backspace to run 37's, or 5.5" if you use their radius arms. I'd spend the extra $$$ and buy their radius arms if it solved the rubbing issue. My fear is that I would spend $5k on wheels/tires then $1,400 for Carli radius arms and still have rub.
An 11" rim with 0 offset is 6" of backspacing. I don't think you'll be anywhere near your radius arms at that point. But you might be close to your fenders or sway bars. That's an odd rim, I unfortunately don't have any personal experience there. Appreciate the compliment though
Edit, I did the math, an 11in rim at 0 offset is 6" BS. The stock 8" rim at 40 offset is 6.07 BS. So if you stuck with a 35 you'll definitely be fine on the RAs. I ran 35x12.5s on the stock wheels for months without touching the RAs. I'm still not sure on the front chin spoiler or wheel well mud catcher. Might be close there, but I would guess not at 35".
If you ever go to a 37 though you're screwed.
Originally Posted by Fifty150
Finally! Somebody who sees the obvious.
I thought I was going nuts. The last time I went wheel shopping, in the dinosaur days before being able to order any wheel spec you want online........almost every tire & wheel store clerk had no idea what offset & backspace actually meant. For whatever reason, a lot of the inventory back then only offered the offset spec, and did not even list the backspace. You had to physically measure the wheel yourself, if it was in the store. And store clerks have no clue.......they kept insisting that "XXXX of offset should work just fine". No. You have no idea what will actually fit unless you know the backspace.
I really don't know why offset became the de facto over back spacing. I have a feeling it got popular with the tuner crowd in the 90s because they all used similar width rims back then. It's a stupid metric, whenever you can't compare it to other rims it instantly becomes less useful.
I know the 22x11 is an odd wheel size, only American Force makes them. It seemed to be my best option in a 22" wheel without going to a -24 offset, which is too much for my taste. If I would settle for 35's or 20" wheels my life would be so much easier. I may have to settle for 20" wheels, but I'm definitely keeping the 37's.
Since it's a weird size and it's only cool having your wheels sticking 12" outside your fenders now, I have only seen two guys running the 22x11 +0mm on 37's. One in the Custom Offset Gallery with 37x13.5's said he had no rub, and the other I found on Instagram with 37x12.5's said he recently sold his truck, but he didn't remember having any rub. It's just hard for me to believe, but this picture of the 22x11's on 37x12.5's seems to have a decent amount of offset so maybe they clear?
Also while I have you here Tricon, are your aftermarket wheels hub or lug-centric? Does adding hub-centric rings really make your lug-centric wheels hub-centric?
I really don't know why offset became the de facto over back spacing. I have a feeling it got popular with the tuner crowd in the 90s because they all used similar width rims back then. It's a stupid metric, whenever you can't compare it to other rims it instantly becomes less useful.
Offset is more important in the sports car/lowered car world where the amount of "lip" or "dish" is a top selling feature.
This thread is a good example of what you can use if you utilize the suspension off road. If you get rub on flat level ground or not maybe just close when the suspension goes into travel it will be ugly. Fine for mall crawlers but be very wary if you use the truck off road or even turning into a parking lot with a dip because depending on the fitment and if the tire has large lugs which many think look cool but for the street and most off road situations are for looks mainly. I have seen people actually rip lugs off and tear out the plastic and even metal behind it on the inside of the fender well.
I had to do a little trimming on mine to ensure fit during travel and they are only 35x13.50-20 (aftermarket wheels) with the BDS level kit. My shop knows my vehicles and we always make sure it will work off road. Would love 37's but did not want to go with a 4in lift plus more cutting..
You need 5" of backspacing. Offset is sort of a stupid metric because it changes depending on the width of the wheel. 0 offset on a 9" wide rim is not the same as 0 offset on a 10' wide rim. But 5" backspace is 5" backspace no matter what.
I have 18x9 0 offset wheels which is 5" backspacing, no rubbing and I have plenty of clearance for 37's. I might move up to a 37 next time around, it definitely looks better on these trucks, but I dont know if I want to have a 37 for towing purposes.
Tricon is right. I'm also running 17x9's with a 5" backspacing. No rubbing at all with 37's. If you're wanting to run 22's, you're gonna have to spend a little extra money on something custom I would imagine.
Here's how a 9" wide wheel w/ a 5" BS & 37x13.50's fit for reference.
This thread is a good example of what you can use if you utilize the suspension off road. If you get rub on flat level ground or not maybe just close when the suspension goes into travel it will be ugly. Fine for mall crawlers but be very wary if you use the truck off road or even turning into a parking lot with a dip because depending on the fitment and if the tire has large lugs which many think look cool but for the street and most off road situations are for looks mainly. I have seen people actually rip lugs off and tear out the plastic and even metal behind it on the inside of the fender well.
I had to do a little trimming on mine to ensure fit during travel and they are only 35x13.50-20 (aftermarket wheels) with the BDS level kit. My shop knows my vehicles and we always make sure it will work off road. Would love 37's but did not want to go with a 4in lift plus more cutting..
4" lift, 37x13.5, minor trimming of air dam and plastic guard at rear of fender well, great articulation without any further rubbing.
Thanks. I'm very pleased with how it turned out and so far it is performing very well. I want to do a bumper swap and tonneau, but otherwise I think it really only needs some minor cosmetics at this point.
gravedgr, after talking about wheel widths and tire specs, I looked up the specs for the Ridge Grapplers and oddly enough it shows the 12.5" wide tire can handle a wider wheel than the 13.5" tire (on a 22" wheel). 37x12.5r22 - 9" - 11.5"; 37x13.5r22 - 8.5" - 11". I just thought that was interesting.
gravedgr, after talking about wheel widths and tire specs, I looked up the specs for the Ridge Grapplers and oddly enough it shows the 12.5" wide tire can handle a wider wheel than the 13.5" tire (on a 22" wheel). 37x12.5r22 - 9" - 11.5"; 37x13.5r22 - 8.5" - 11". I just thought that was interesting.
Yeah, that doesn't make any sense. I just looked at the table too, thinking maybe there was a big difference in load capacity, but the 13.5" tire will carry more load in a narrower wheel than the 12.5" on a wider wheel. Up to you, but I might call someone in their sales or customer service and ask why - if only for my own curiosity.
How can an 11" wide rim have 6" of backspace AND 0 offset?? 0 offset = 11"/2 = 5.5" backspace... Unless AF has .25" wheel lips and they are measuring from inside the lip to mounting surface.
Wheel width is measured to the inside of the lip, where the tire head sits. As a rule of thumb, there is usually around a half inch (or maybe a bit less) of additional bead lip outside of the nominal width.
So, a nominal 11" rim is actually roughly 12" wide.
So yeah, it is confusing. An 11" rim with 0 offset indeed has 5.5" of nominal width on each side of centerline, but there is an additional ~0.5" that gives you the 6" backspacing. Backspacing includes this additional lip because it is necessary to be exact to avoid physical interference.
If I had to guess, I'd probably say this is a holdover from older wheel construction methods. For example, a very simple stamped steel 17x7" wheel with no rolled lip could literally be 7.1" wide. Conversely, a cheap 17x7" cast aluminum wheel could be over 8" wide at the outer edge of the lip. In order to ensure clear tire compatability across these varied constructions, they probably started measuring width at the tire mounting surface.
Good lord this a confusing ( at least to me ) to try and figure out. Anyone know if a 20x10 wheel with a -19 or -18 offset will work mounted on Nitto Ridge Grapplers 325/60 r20s, rub or no rub? Minor plastic trimming is fine with me...metal not so much. I’m on a 2.5” level.
the 35s look so small to me on these trucks...
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