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My truck has 195,000 miles on it and I was still running the original alternator. I noticed the charging voltage being a little low when I had the A/C, lights, and wipers on, so last week I installed a new 185 amp alternator. I ordered the alternator from Diesel Power Products and it is a Nations Alternator and Generator model 8307-TAD-185. So far I'm happy with its performance, but only time will tell if it was a good move.
I have a 2006 F350 5.4l; use it for plowing. Had to upgrade the alternator years ago because if that. I can’t recall the specs offhand, but I the the oem was only 135 amps and the new one is 150, which was the highest available at yhe time.
Keep an eye on your battery too. I replace mine every three years
What was your charging volts. My alternator died and I went with a 200 amp from DB electrical. Works well but running voltage through my scan gauge is only 13.5-13.8 and I've been wondering if it's too low. I always thought you were supposed to be above 14. No issues with browning out or anything. Just curious.
Depends on the voltage set point of your alternator. 14.5V is common so if that's what you have, you might have an issue. You'd need to pull, charge, and load test the battery, then clean your grounds and connections and check your wires for corrosion.
Some companies sell 14.2V set point alts for AGMs - not sure why because they can charge with up to 14.7V but that's how they're marketed. If you have a 14.2V set point alt with a battery that's a few years old and could stand to be charged on a real charger, you probably aren't out of the normal range. If you have a 14.5V and live in NJ, your grounds or even the cables are probably questionable.
Depends on the voltage set point of your alternator. 14.5V is common so if that's what you have, you might have an issue. You'd need to pull, charge, and load test the battery, then clean your grounds and connections and check your wires for corrosion.
Some companies sell 14.2V set point alts for AGMs - not sure why because they can charge with up to 14.7V but that's how they're marketed. If you have a 14.2V set point alt with a battery that's a few years old and could stand to be charged on a real charger, you probably aren't out of the normal range. If you have a 14.5V and live in NJ, your grounds or even the cables are probably questionable.
I had the battery tested earlier this year it's a diehard platinum and it tested out well at 1290 CCA well over the 930 advertised on the battery. Is there another test I should perform?
How many grounds should I have? I have 2 body to frame on the passenger side, 2 body to frame on the driver side 1 going from the battery to the body and 1 going from the ground by the oil pan to the frame. All 4 gauge audio griund from Knukonceptz.
My voltage had gotten to where it was sometimes in the mid 12's and would move to the low 13's after recovery from starting. This new alternator puts out about 14.4 and settles into the high 13's. I have my Edge gauge set up to monitor FICM voltage (runs 47.5 to 48.0), charging voltage, ECT, EOT, and EGT and I watch them all religiously.
The TAD 185 is a great alternator. I put one in my 06 four years ago and it is still going strong. Suggest upgrading battery cables at the same time, including the engine to battery ground.
The voltage reading on the
ScanGaugeII will normally be about .5 to .7 volts low, any thing reading volts at the OBD port will be that way. You need to measure at the battery. My '03 does read acurately at the 12v. accessory plug, normally within .25 volts of the battery reading.
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