Recently installed a Ford reman'd 5.4 using a gasket set included directly from Ford. These weren't in "normal" packaging, looked almost generic without Ford's logo etc. That might be completely insignificant but maybe worth mentioning?

Intake was torqued according to WSM: 18 inch pounds first round, pulled up to 18 foot pounds second time following the published torque sequence

After about 150 miles and less than an hours idling there is a small coolant leak near #3 & #4, confirmed using a radiator testing pressurizer pumped up to 14PSI. This seems to be something new, spots in driveway weren't present the first 100 or so miles.

I'll check and tighten the intake again hoping that takes care of this. If it doesn't the gaskets will be replaced so the question becomes should I use Ford parts or is there a better brand? Should I use some sort of sealant around the water openings? This engine is under Ford's warranty so I'll only do whatever keeps that alive.

I once read there is a different type for brand new engines as opposed to reman'd heads, blocks or both. Anything to that?

TIA for any advice or suggestions!

 

I always do even when instructions say it's not necessary. With the exception of head gaskets, I use Permatex Super 300 Sealant on everything I take apart that's not fuel related and have never had a leak after. It also makes future disassembles easier because gaskets will peal off in one piece...no scraping.

 

Typically when I see that "not necessary" comment unless its accompanied with a strict reason to NOT do something I'll do whatever's necessary to avoid re-doing any job. I'll strongly consider the Permatex Super 300 sealant--can't hurt around the water jacket passages and on the cross over too.

So Alloro the Permatex Super 300 can be used between the intake and the heads?

I just now finished re-torquing the intake, a few slightly loose bolts but none close to the visible leak (just over #4 cylinder). I'm slightly torn between trying to reseal the existing intake or replacing it with a Ford part, about $280 without gaskets. Of course I'd rather pay a few bucks to do this right rather than cheap out and use a crappy part prone to failure.

 

Yes you can between the intake and heads, just not between the heads and block. I also use it on radiator and heat hoses, apply a thin coat and wait a few minutes to start the drying process, then slip the hose on, tighten the clamps and forget about it. Never had a hose leak after that. Also, with this stuff a thinner coat is better, it's not like RTV sealant.

 

Great info and thanks again---I'm gonna give this stuff a try!

 

I had to replace my intake manifold, fouled-out plugs and coils at just over 80,000; on my '07 4.6. GOOD TIMES!
I need to search again; but I wonder if someone makes an aftermarket NON-PLASTIC intake manifold for the 4.6L
Plastic..........GREAT IDEA!

 

My '97 F150 leaked at the heater core nipples, which happen to be right above 3 & 4.
The correct heater hose to heater core connections are the fix for that.

 

The plastic itiself isn't an issue---its how well made the intakes are that's the issue. While I too would prefer metal of some sort for the most part plastic intakes on the V8 Modular Motors seem to suit the need in many many vehicles still running around with them.

My leak was observed at the rear right side water port leading into the head, closest to #4----you could actually see coolant pooling and running down the back of the block. Quite miraculously the leak has stopped on its own. I do monitor it from time-to-time, after almost a month its not returned.

Thanks all for the contributions!

 

Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out.
Most of the (badly designed) modular V8's out there, will be replacing that PLASTIC INTAKE before too long, sad to say.
have a great one!

 

Well, back in 2017, the wife's car (1997 Cougar) finally blew an intake manifold gasket ....looking at everything, I decided to just replace the intake with a Dorman unit. Now I am typically not the biggest fan of Dorman...parts are typically good, but not great...this is an exception. From my research, Dorman changed their manufacturing specs/design about a year or so prior ...I ordered and received the new intake....it was actually (IMHO) a better design than the OE intake (which yes was replaced with the oe updated design in about 1998).

As an FYI, the new intake does not utilize any of the oe cylinder head to intake gaskets...as they have incorporated these as individual units into the intake itself (eliminating one layer of gaskets).....IMHO, this was good from several points one of which when installing the intake, there is much less chance of damaging the gasket (although slim, it you got a little rough with it by accident, it could cause an issue) and makes it a much less of a headache aligning things up. But the biggie I saw was the runner design.....although definitely paralleling the oe unit, it did not have near as many of the horizontal type flow restrictors as the oe unit......a little casting flash (vertically) was there but nothing my dremel tool with sandpaper couldn't clean up in 20 minutes. The port alignment was excellent (which with their previous model, it was posted that sometimes you had to cut excess material off the outside of the flange to get it to fit).

Final result.....perfect seal & fit on the 1st time out....car runs excellent as good as it did before (no torque loss as others have reported with the previous model) and the upper rpm (4K+), seems to run a little better actually......IMHO...(ie. less obstructive flow pattern in the runners)

 

Same here fan-wise about Dorman but oddly enough the intake on my '05 E350 w/5.4 had a Dorman intake already installed---don't know when though as this is a new-to-me E350. As I describe in my opening post I had what I thought was a gasket or intake issue (leaking coolant) but that seems to have self-corrected if there is such a thing. I see absolutely no signs of any leaks anywhere now. Its encouraging to know the Dorman part might be equal to or a bit better than the more costly OEM version.

Thanks BeechKid---appreciate the insight!

 

And they are made in the USA, well the one i have in my work truck is.