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am I understand correctly that you changed the #5 coil and spark plug still get the #5 misfire code ?
That is correct. Coil and plug have been changed and swapped with other plugs/coils and it is still the #5 cylinder miss fire. I am going to try and get the injector swapped into the #4 hole this weekend to see if it follows.
Leakdown test is also in the plan if I can track down a tester to borrow rather than buy.
Also closely inspect the electrical plug for the #5 COP, those are known to have the keeper tabs fail and as they jiggle around the power cuts in/out causing a miss. Can be quick fixed with a small cable tie until you get a replacement pigtail for it.
Lost the transmission on my way into work today. Goddamnit.
Was driving along and the revs suddenly increased after an attempted upshift, felt as though the torque converter let loose as the revs would drop to idle once foot came off the throttle. Made it to work and tried to back into my parking spot, no reverse. Engine revs and can hear things spinning in the transmission itself. Luckily I was able to pull forward over the curb, through the gravel section adjacent to our parking area and into another parking spot.
Getting it home is going to be interesting, I'll have to see if I can get a tow truck through the security gate, or it will still move forward under its own power might try and limp it home.
I suppose there are worse things that could happen, but that seems near the top to me. Best of luck getting it home, hopefully you can look at it as an opportunity to do an "unanticipated upgrade". But damn, upgrades that big sure do hurt the checkbook.
I suppose there are worse things that could happen, but that seems near the top to me. Best of luck getting it home, hopefully you can look at it as an opportunity to do an "unanticipated upgrade". But damn, upgrades that big sure do hurt the checkbook.
It isn't going to be nearly as bad as I thought, found a local place that has done a good bit of transmission work for a diesel performance shop here in the valley that is -very- familiar with the 4r100 that said it would be $2200 include parts and labor so long as no major hard parts are toast.
Nice! That is indeed a good price from what I have been seeing - I have been keeping an eye out as my trans has over 100k on it (P.O. replaced the original around 140k, IIRC).
I've had it back from the transmission shop since last Friday. It is driving smoother and better than ever, other than the miss fire. Planning to swap the #5 and #1 injectors on my next long weekend and see if it follows the fuel.
The previous owner attempted to disassemble the double cardan and replace the universals, and when I say attempted I mean "gave up after breaking stuff."
There is a reason I picked this thing up for as cheap as I did.
ETA: The rear driveshaft rebuild is on the to-do list simply because I want a fresh rear since I will have a fresh front. And it is an opportunity to install greasable universals.
I just bought one for 4700 with moderate midwest rust and I was looking at your earlier posts thinking I might not have gotten a good deal. Thanks for sharing. So far I put on a muffler and know I need lock actuators and some window motor slide love. 100+ miles on it today.
No real update, just posting to remind myself I need to do more on this. Still driving around with the misfire, but only a to and from work commuter (18 mile round trip). Saving up for a new engine and considering a diesel swap just because.
The BDS suspension is complete ****.
Steering wander is progressing, need to check my unit bearings and steering box and associated hardware.
Rear driveshaft is giving me some problems as a result of my pinion angle not being the best due to the BDS rear leafs.
No real update, just posting to remind myself I need to do more on this. Still driving around with the misfire, but only a to and from work commuter (18 mile round trip). Saving up for a new engine and considering a diesel swap just because.
The BDS suspension is complete ****.
Steering wander is progressing, need to check my unit bearings and steering box and associated hardware.
Rear driveshaft is giving me some problems as a result of my pinion angle not being the best due to the BDS rear leafs.
No matter what leaf springs you have if you don’t shim them to get the correct pinion angle you will have issues with the drive shaft.
No matter what leaf springs you have if you don’t shim them to get the correct pinion angle you will have issues with the drive shaft.
Yep, and new shims are here, just need to get a weekend free to install them. I've played this game before in the Jeep world. The BDS shims don't play nicely with the X because their "Excursion" suspension is 100% an F-250 kit, verfied by the part numbers.
It is "close enough" right now because I don't touch the interstate unless I have to, and my normal max speed on my commute to work is 65. Only have noticeable driveline issues when it is 75 mph and higher.
Adding this post here at the request of pirate4x4_camo:
Originally Posted by Red_Snow
Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
With a proper set of springs such as the procomp 22210/22415
I'm completely dissatisfied with my BDS setup I've had for 6,000 miles now and am considering going this route; any particular reason to not find a high-arch rear leaf set that allows a person to run without the lift block? That was one of the main reasons I went with BDS in the first place was that, but the springs are ridiculously stiff. Edit: have seriously been considering a full custom set of leafs from Alcan once I get the rig set up how I want it to and get an exact weight from each corner.
Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
and a good set of shocks this is minimized ( not to mention the improved ride ) also make sure your air pressures are correct.
I know from posts of yours I've seen that you are running some custom valved shocks, any recommendations on off the shelf that work good without the custom valving and the required R&D that goes with that? Not afraid of going the custom valved route, just don't want to have to start from zero on a set of shocks.
Need this thing to be a smoother ride if I'm going to convince the wife to keep it as the main family rig moving forward.
Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
start a new thread so we don’t derail getting Mailseth sorted out.
cut and paste this post plus get hub to bottom of fender arch measurments front and rear, pics of the springs, shocks and pitman arm track bar would also be helpful.
but quick answer...the Procomp 22415 gives a 4” increase in ride height and removes the rear block.
off the self shocks
Front 24-185545 Bilstein 5100
10” stroke
Rear 33-236964 Bilstein 5100
12” stroke
I'm currently 600 miles away from the X, but will grab that info when I get home Sunday/Monday.
I can not find the specs for the rear spring rate anywhere on the internet, You will need to call them and ask for the specs, Specifically you want to know what the front and rear spring rates are, not the capacity the actual spring rate.
bummer about the shocks, those are just cheap IFP’s like the Bilstens I posted the number to above.
In the Fox line you want the “factory race” series 2.0 with remote reservoir. https://www.ridefox.com/filter.php?f...year=Universal
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