What happened with the front drive shaft?

 

The previous owner attempted to disassemble the double cardan and replace the universals, and when I say attempted I mean "gave up after breaking stuff."

There is a reason I picked this thing up for as cheap as I did.

ETA: The rear driveshaft rebuild is on the to-do list simply because I want a fresh rear since I will have a fresh front. And it is an opportunity to install greasable universals.

 

 

Dealership was able to repair the sparkplug threads and reinstall a plug. Last word I received is that they cannot get spark in that cylinder. No estimate on completion, and (I consider this a good thing) no conjecture on what it will take to fix.

I'm wondering if I shouldn't have just purchased a fully trimmed engine from Ford for $4k.

 

Thank you for the link, those look like the ticket.

 

Completed as of now:

• Spark Plugs
• battery tray
• washer fluid plumbing
• rear drivers side door loose bits
• rear hatch lock

Low compression is in both cylinders #5 (22% loss) and #10 (11% loss). The RPM dependant shudder is better, but it isn't cured with the new plugs and boots. The missfire didn't follow the COP when switched around, which leads me to believe I need to rebuild or replace the engine sooner rather than later.

Local dealerships have the 2v V10 crate motor (9C2Z-6006-AA) for $5,218.27 & $5,731.25. Remans are anywhere from $1,500 to $3,750.

Front drive shaft is back from the shop but not installed yet.

edit: I don't remember if I mentioned this above, but the loose bits in the door was a 9" chunk of a mirror.

 

Just hooked up Forscan:
P1000, P0305-C, P0316, P1832, B1201

P1000; OBD system hasn't completed a full diagnostic since the battery was disconnected last week.
P0305-C; Confirmed missfire of cylinder 5
P0316; Missfire on startup, within first 1000 revolutions.
P1832; Transfer case 4wd solenoid circuit failure
B1201; fuel sender open circuit or short circuit to positive

Just ran the engine on test and it threw a P0703 brake switch code also.

And this is after spending a ton of money at the dealership with them attempting to solve the P0305 and P0316 codes. Any suggestions from the group on which way to go on this? Should I see about having the fuel system cleaned at a BG Products dealer? Or just jump straight into a reman long block?

Also, from searching and reading, the P1832 seems to be a non-issue code so long as the transfer case is shifting, I haven't tried putting into 4wd since reinstalling the front drive shaft, need to see if it will shift first then start poking around with the multi meter if it doesn't.

 

Is that a newly dropped set of codes, or historical? Unless they were cleared properly, they could be left over from prior to the service. Did you clear the codes and do a subsequent run/test?

If such is not the case and they are in fact "active" codes, mechanics would proceed with the diagnostics as per the factory service manual. Getting the codes is just the start: you then follow the diagnostic procedure to test out each possible cause until you arrive at a conclusion. I'd wager that unless you have a hole in a piston or some other equally catastrophic mechanical issue, a long block isn't going to fix it anyways.

If I had already exchanged my money for repair of the cause of the codes, I'd be back on the Service Manager's doorstep. But the sad fact is you are more likely to find and fix the problem yourself - the dealer mechanic is doing a job for pay, your truck is just another one in a long line of them in his day. Your truck is your truck, and you love it enough to do the job with your heart.

Both the xfer case code and the brake switch fault are common issues that show up but seem to have no ill effect on operation. I alternately or sometimes together get the 4wd and 2wd solenoid circuit codes, but the 4wd engages and disengages just fine (not counting the part where the ESOF vacuum lines are rat-chewed and dry-rotted). The brake switch test sometimes doesn't catch the pedal input when you are prompted to depress the brake, I haven't figured out if I'm not doing it soon enough of just not for long enough.

 

They show up every time they are cleared on the next engine cycle. The missfire does not follow the COP From cylinder 5, but I haven't gone any further than that.

The dealer was only paid to swap spark plugs. I told them to not waste any more labor on further diagnostic as they just wanted to pull the head rather than leakdown test or anything other than a comparative compression test.

I really don't want to buy a set of shop manuals for this truck, and at this point in time don't have a clue where to start.

That is good to know, and falls in line from what I was able to find when searching both codes.

 

Does Forscan do a cylinder contribution test on the V10? If you're getting 100% on the contribution test, but an occasional misfire, it likely isn't mechanical. I know that later iterations of Ford's OBD will record the total number of misfires since it started recording, not sure if that's the case with our older rigs - but that might be useful info as well if it's available. I'm just not very familiar with the gas engine side of Forscan as it applies to Excursions.

I agree both a wet and dry compression test and a leakdown would add to what we know so far.

Someone here will likely convey the relevant pages, you may have better luck in the engine-specific V10 forum (as Stewart is faithfully teaching me each time he moves one of my posts to the 7.3l forum ). The paper version is a fair investment, but if you can navigate it, the electronic versions are very affordable. But - I understand that not everyone has the time, space, means, or desire to become a mechanic just to own a particular make and model of car.

*edit* Sorry, didn't remember the compression loss numbers you posted before. Just need to investigate the "why" on them.

 

Missfire comes and goes, but is becoming progressively worse. Am talking to a few shops about performing a diagnostic on it to try and pinpoint the origin. Or at least to determine if its a mechanical issue or a fuel issue.

Picked up a new radiator cap and PCV valve, going to swap the cap tonight and the PCV valve after I find a couple pairs of hose clamp pliers for the heater lines.

 

Installed the OEM air cleaner assembly rather than the Airraid POS that was on there. The missfire at idle has cleaned up noticeably. Still there at 1500 to 2000 RPM.

Had a no-start condition yesterday, parked nose high on a pretty good incline, took three times cranking unsuccessfully and one final crank with my foot on the pedal for it to fire. This along with other issues I've been having with fuel delivery and sending unit faults means fuel pump assembly just made its way very high onto the list.

Drivers rear door window stopped functioning also but that door was apart two weeks ago removing a chunk of glass that was rattling around inside of it. Hoping that the wiring just came loose inside there and not a larger issue starting to crop up.

 

 

 

I clean my MAF with this from time to time.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-Indus...SABEgIxsPD_BwE