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127,8° F doesn’t seem that warm for a sticking caliper.
I'm not positive its still sticking, as those images were taken at lunch yesterday after driving back from McDonalds. The sticking caliper issue was from the night before southbound in rush hour traffic. I didn't notice any issues with it northbound after dinner not in rush hour traffic.
Originally Posted by wpnaes
Congrats on the new purchase, welcome to the club!
Thanks!
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Damn, cool toys from the new guy, sweet!
It is a really cool toy, just wish I could take it home to play with it. But, they don't really take kindly to me trying to leave site with a $100,000 camera.
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Plus he has to buy first and last rounds since he's new to the Ex forum (but not registration date), so it all works great!
Love the pics!
Stewart
Anyone that is in the greater Salt Lake City area is welcome to come by and drink some Wyoming beer any time, just have to help diagnose issues with the Ex.
Have whoever does the plugs determine if you have the early '03 heads with only 4 plug threads or the later '03 heads with 7 threads, the design changed mid-year '03.
Based on my door sticker, I am going to assume I have the 4 thread heads, unless that date means it was November 2nd, not November 2002. But it also verifies 4.30 gearing, so there is that.
Your description of tranny shudder under load sure sounds like a bad COP (or boots) or 2.
Agreed. I had the same issue.
Truck won't throw a CEL because it thinks the issue is "fixed" when your transmission shifts. However, if you get a decent code reader on, it would show a saved, non-permanent misfire code and tell you what cylinder as well.
Truck won't throw a CEL because it thinks the issue is "fixed" when your transmission shifts. However, if you get a decent code reader on, it would show a saved, non-permanent misfire code and tell you what cylinder as well.
Good luck with everything else
Any suggestions on a decent code reader? I was planning on grabbing a cheap laptop and installing Forscan.
Any suggestions on a decent code reader? I was planning on grabbing a cheap laptop and installing Forscan.
there is a alot more to it then getting a “ decent” code reader, you need a specific tool to match the ford protocols. forscan forum has this thread on adapters. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6142
in the case of Forscan on a computer you need a windows 7 PC and a USB OBD2
fwiw, i bought a dell 2110 win7 ..... on ebay for $60 that works perfect for forscan, it is even ruberized so doesnt slide around on test drives. those were supplied to schools and are plentiful. just make dure to read the specs and make sure you get win7 ( pro is prefered but not nessasary ) wiFi and a usb port
Any suggestions on a decent code reader? I was planning on grabbing a cheap laptop and installing Forscan.
Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
there is a alot more to it then getting a “ decent” code reader, you need a specific tool to match the ford protocols. forscan forum has this thread on adapters. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6142
in the case of Forscan on a computer you need a windows 7 PC and a USB OBD2
fwiw, i bought a dell 2110 win7 ..... on ebay for $60 that works perfect for forscan, it is even ruberized so doesnt slide around on test drives. those were supplied to schools and are plentiful. just make dure to read the specs and make sure you get win7 ( pro is prefered but not nessasary ) wiFi and a usb port
My cheap code reader accurately diagnosed the misfires and was cylinder-specific in doing so:
As for the scanner aspect, I use torque pro on the phone half the time. The reader is about $10 on amazon or ebay, and the app is free.
but for more serious stuff, a mechanic buddy lets me use his autel, does everything but program keys. They are pretty nice and easy to use for about $300, and I think, if i remeber right, the one that can program keys is about $900. So at around $100 a pop for a dealer to make a key... i may be buying one that can in the near future.
forscan is pretty slick from what I have read up on it though. Prices and options on scanners has a wide range. All depends on what you feel like doing yourself, and if you do it enough to justify the cost.
Picked it up from surgery today. Significantly more cost than planned, but a bunch of previous owner junk reared its head. Between brakes, rear axle troubles, front suspension troubles, etc I'm glad its done. These tires have enough tread to hopefully last through the winter. The shop that did the install was complete **** at alignment. Its almost scary to drive at the moment. They will have one more try to give me +5 deg. caster, since that seems to be a pretty good spot with these excursions for driveability.
And my front drive shaft was toast from the PO trying to rebuild the double cardan, won't get that back until next week sometime.
Suspension so far is great, it actually works over bumps!
I have a heavy "clunk" coming through the body on shift from 2 to 3 while accelerating, further investigation shows it might be the transfer case. U joints are all still in good shape, rear axle is decent still, but when moving the drive shaft you can feel and hear the clunk from within the transfer case. Joy.
Performed an oil change; 6qts Mobile 1 High Mileage full synthetic, Motocraft FL820S, and a Fumoto drain valve.
Valve in its pieces. Also has a hose with fitting that snaps onto the valve for future oil changes to be much, much quicker.
Gratuitous tool photo:
Installed with a slight down angle, pointed to the rear, and torqued to 18ft/lb.
The only good thing about the Ex is that I jumped in both feet first without thoughts to the depth below. Update for those that care:
Previous owner botched the install of a spark plug thread repair, one spark plug was crooked. Dealership is dealing with that one. If they can't salvage it, new head time.
Still searching for extended brake lines that are shorter than the ones I have now, looking at some of the SS braided ones from Summit
Planning on purchasing the aluminum cable ends for the door cables so the next time my cables break I can keep the wife from insisting to send it to the dealership for replacement. That one is hurting the wallet currently.
Once this round of repair work is completed at the dealership, the plan is to complete the to-do list myself as I am available, including rebuilding the transmission myself. The up to date to-do list in no particular order:
Spark Plugs including the one repair - 10/4/18
air intake
battery tray - 10/4/18
speedo correction
washer fluid plumbing - 10/4/18
rear drivers side door loose bits 10/4/18
rear hatch lock - 10/4/18
EVIC fix from Circuit Board Medics
fix alignment
transmission flush
axle lube change
windsheild
brake lines
transmission rebuild
transfer case rebuild
front drive shaft rebuild - 10/5/18
rear drive shaft rebuilt
new head unit w/ backup camera
speakers and amp
dash camera
4.88 gears w/ rear Ox locker
custom exhaust
buckstop outback front bumper
buckstop dual swing out rear bumper
New wheels and tires
17x9 & 285/75r17 tires
Rhino Pioneer roof rack, or at least something I can bolt my rod vault to for fishing
Rubber floor liners throughout
Interior and exterior detail
tint
LED taillights and marker lights
LED backup lights
LED lightbars up front
LED ditch lights
Replace or adjust the AMP research bars, leaning towards replace with fixed custom nerf bars
Source and reinstall rear sway bar that previous owner removed
Remove the frame and axle side brackets previous owner welded in place after full magnetic particle examination to make sure nothing is cracked
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.