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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 01:59 PM
  #46  
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[QUOTE=timmyboy76;18227471]Sorry to hear about your mom...
i know how much of a pita it is to test gp's and inhectors at the connection. So, i got one of these..muck easier and stays in the travel 7.3 goodie bag
[/QUOTEYe]
Good idea!
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 02:00 PM
  #47  
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Where are you guy's running the wire through the fire wall for the LED light? Or you just drilling a hole?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 02:01 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Salmon Guy
Mine would not show any reading what so ever, every one of them, the digital reader would not even move. But when I test the same way with new glow plugs the meter would show some numbers then stop at zero, exactly like it does if I touch the 2 probes on the tester to each other. Another thing I did was to take the old injectors and touch the leads to each end, nothing would happen with all 8 of the old injectors. But I did the same thing with the new glow plugs, the Meter would move up and then level and hold at zero. I did it those two ways and then I did it with the old plugs grounded to the negative battery post, I still got no reading at all from the old plugs.
I'm very sorry to hear about your mom.

If your new plugs are testing at zero ohms, you have your meter set to the wrong scale. Not a big deal.
With all eight burned out, check to be sure the relay isn't stuck energized or it will burn out your new glow plugs in a matter of minutes. If you replaced the GPR already, you got it covered.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 02:07 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by HD Rider
I'm very sorry to hear about your mom.

If your new plugs are testing at zero ohms, you have your meter set to the wrong scale. Not a big deal.
With all eight burned out, check to be sure the relay isn't stuck energized or it will burn out your new glow plugs in a matter of minutes. If you replaced the GPR already, you got it covered.
I'm waiting for the new GPR in today's mail. I'll admit I;m no expert with & Ohm meter. But the way all the old ones tested and the way the new are testing, I'm confident they were bad.

Also thanks to all of you about my mom, We new it was coming for the last month. But that doesn't make it much easier.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 02:12 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Salmon Guy
Where are you guy's running the wire through the fire wall for the LED light? Or you just drilling a hole?
If you have a 4R100 transmission, there is a grommet near the steering column that is used in the ZF6 trucks, you could use that or make your own hole. I have a couple of spots I have run wires through, one on the passenger side that was there and one on the drivers side that I created.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 02:18 PM
  #51  
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Just use one of the 4 ford supplied wires that are at the master cylinder. They run under the dash towards the middle/bottom...red white black and yellow and/or blue...theyll have black tape atop of them so gotta dig for them in engine
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 02:25 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
Just use one of the 4 ford supplied wires that are at the master cylinder. They run under the dash towards the middle/bottom...red white black and yellow and/or blue...theyll have black tape atop of them so gotta dig for them in engine
Actually I saw those wires in the engine compartment. I'll have to go look under the dash now. I didn't know that's what those wires were for.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 03:45 PM
  #53  
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I don't prefer to use those wires because you have 2 splice points for a single wire that is easy enough to put through a rubber grommet.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 05:43 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Sous
I don't prefer to use those wires because you have 2 splice points for a single wire that is easy enough to put through a rubber grommet.

I couldn't find the wires inside, So I drilled a hole inside of a rubber grommet.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 06:32 PM
  #55  
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Well the new GPR came in the mail and I picked up a little red LED light from the parts store. All signs point to a success. 12.5 volts at the battery side of the GPR, Turn key on and it drops to 10.5v, after about a minute or so it jumped back up to 12.5v. So the red light I installed stayed on for about 45 seconds after the WTS light went off, It was 70 degree's out, I'm not sure if the glow plugs stay on longer when it's colder out? Now I have 2 of the "White-Rodger's GPR'S on my motor. It's a very tight squeeze.Took me a while to get the new one in there. They face each other and it's hard to get them far enough apart, maybe a 1/2" from positive cable to positive cable, not a good scenario. I cut a 1/2" thick piece of rubber and and wedged it between them. I think I might end up changing the other one back to a stock one? Hopefully that will put them a little farther apart. Well I think this should solve my problem. When it gets cold out I'll post how it works.
Thanks for all the help.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 09:34 PM
  #56  
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Glad you got it done. And glad we could help.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 10:13 PM
  #57  
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The colder out the colder itll remain lit..compare the gpr time to the seatbelt alum icon...
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 08:11 AM
  #58  
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Well it got down to 37 degrees yesterday morning. I turned the key on, the red LED stays on almost 2 minutes after the WTS light goes off. I turned the key and bamb It fired right up. I know 37 is not that cold, but before this repair it would never have started., I can't tell you how good it is to know my truck will start when it's cold out.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 10:22 PM
  #59  
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Right on salmon..felt good didnt it! I was in same boat you were last october in mammoth and also 2 seasons ago in big bear. Was able to plug truck in up in bigbear by removing the porch light and installing a light plug..lol. As for Mammoth, i left the hood open for the sun to hit it... Now, my newer truck, i dreaded also this past weekend goin to mammoth. Thinking id have problems with it, but 1st morning, 6am 24* and overhead saying ICE. Let gp's do its thing and BAM!. Fired off like it was 90* out. She did ramp up to 1100rpm after about 20sec...whatta relief
 
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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 10:15 AM
  #60  
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Well we haven't had another day as cold as the 37 degrees/ But one thing I thought I noticed after doing this repair was the way it didn't seem to kick down as hard (down shift) when I'm traveling on the HWY. I wasn't sure but I am now. When I'm driving around town everything seems the same, power wise. But when I'm on the freeway traveling at 50 to 60 and I push the pedal to the floor it shifts down and accelerates but not like it did before this repair. I had the transmission rebuilt at 104,000 miles and I spent more $ having a better tranny built for towing. I haven't towed my RV since I did this repair. When I hit the pedal it downshifts but before you could feel the power, not so much now., There was one "VACUUM" type tube on the drivers side, above the valve cover it had a 90 degree rubber fitting that was cracked, could that be my problem? I'm going to try to get a new one this week.
 
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