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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 08:14 PM
  #31  
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Well I received all my OEM Glow plugs, Gaskets and Wire harness, All OEM, I got the drivers side done, it took about 2&1/2 hours, and about 30 Minutes of that was trying to get the turbo hose tube back on, it didn't want to go. I noticed when I started the truck the WTS light Flickered after starting. It did it every time I started it., it's never done that before?? Tomorrow I'll do the passenger side. I sure hope this solves my problem? There was some build up on the old glow plugs, the wires didn't look bad?? Do you guys clip the harness to the new gasket and then install the gasket, or do you put the gasket on then put the harness on (Clipped in the two places to the gasket)?? I had a tough time with the harness snapping in place to the gasket. Any tips about the passenger side, I'm doing it tomorrow .

Also I relize that the gaskets are reusable, but I just turned over to 200,000 miles, and I wouldn't sleep at night if I reused the old gaskets. I'll post my parts cost tomorrow when I'm done with the truck. I've always loved the fact that I could pull into anyone's driveway and not leak a drop of oil. I wouldn't want that to change because I scrimped on new gaskets..
 
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 08:28 PM
  #32  
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Here's a pic of my glow plug LED location. It's on as long as your glow plugs are on.

​​​​​​
 
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 08:40 PM
  #33  
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 12:13 PM
  #34  
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There's a ton of good advice in this thread but it seems a bit confusing. I would hate to see you go through a bunch of work and spend a bunch of money without actually fixing your problem. There is a simple and free process for diagnosing your glow plugs system.
First get out your ohm meter. Set it to the lowest ohm setting. Touching the leads on the meter together, it should read zero.
Now pull the nine pin connector at the valve covers. The pins are as follows.
Glow plug
Glow plug
Injector
Injector
Injector common
Injector
Injector
Glow plug
Glow plug
With one meter lead to ground, the other to a glow plug pin the meter should read between .8-1.5 ohms. A read above 2, or no reading at all indicates a burned out glow plug.
If all the plugs check out okay, plug the 9 pin connectors back in making sure they are fully seated. Now set your meter to volts to measure battery voltage. Put the black ground lead on the glow plug relay output post (the large post with the smaller wires attached). The positive meter lead on the other large post of the relay. Your meter should read battery voltage 12.5 or so. Holding those leads in place with a cold engine, have a helper turn the key to on. When the glow plugs energize, the voltage will drop. A reading above 2 volts indicates a bad relay.

If the glow plug system checks out okay, but your truck still won't start without being plugged in, I see injectors in your future.

I hope this helps.
 

Last edited by HD Rider; Sep 29, 2018 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 03:52 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by HD Rider
There's a ton of good advice in this thread but it seems a bit confusing. I would hate to see you go through a bunch of work and spend a bunch of money without actually fixing your problem. There is a simple and free process for diagnosing your glow plugs system.
First get out your ohm meter. Set it to the lowest ohm setting. Touching the leads on the meter together, it should read zero.
Now pull the nine pin connector at the valve covers. The pins are as follows.
Glow plug
Glow plug
Injector
Injector
Injector common
Injector
Injector
Glow plug
Glow plug
With one meter lead to ground, the other to a glow plug pin the meter should read between .8-1.5 ohms. A read above 2, or no reading at all indicates a burned out glow plug.
If all the plugs check out okay, plug the 9 pin connectors back in making sure they are fully seated. Now set your meter to volts to measure battery voltage. Put the black ground lead on the glow plug relay output post (the large post with the smaller wires attached). The positive meter lead on the other large post of the relay. Your meter should read battery voltage 12.5 or so. Holding those leads in place with a cold engine, have a helper turn the key to on. When the glow plugs energize, the voltage will drop. A reading above 2 volts indicates a bad relay.

If the glow plug system checks out okay, but your truck still won't start without being plugged in, I see injectors in your future.

I hope this helps.
Yes it helps, The 4 glow plugs I removed all tested bad,(No reading at all) I'm going to replace the other 4 tomorrow. But will the GPR cycle when it's 70 degrees out? I just had my wife turn the key on and I didn't get voltage to the other side?Thank you all
 
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 04:04 PM
  #36  
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I am not 100% sure, but I believe the GPR cycles on to fire the glow plugs at an oil temperature under 110 degrees. Something like that.

So yes, the GPR cycles on at 70 degrees.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 05:08 PM
  #37  
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 05:13 PM
  #38  
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There you have it, I was off by 21 degrees.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 03:35 AM
  #39  
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Yes the glow plugs will cycle at 70*. Im in south Louisiana and mine stay on 30 seconds when its 85 or 90*. Get the LED like others have said. Less than 10.00 and you will know for sure when the cycle is done and when your relay goes out again. Happened to me last winter. Light didn't come on, checked the relay while someone turned the key on, no voltage.. the wait to start light has nothing to do with glow plugs. Maybe its just to let the fuel pressure build a few seconds.. good luck
 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 03:04 PM
  #40  
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Well the glow plugs are in. I did the drivers side last Friday, Saturday morning I got the call that my 86 year old mother had passed. So I couldn't get back into it. Today I tore in at 9{00 am everything went smooth except I had my head up my a--, As I was putting the valve cover bolts back in, I looked over and saw a NEW glow plug. So I took the valve cover back off and removed the front glow plug, it was the old one. I got ahead of myself and reinstalled it, So it's all good now. I'm warming the engine to change the oil.
Something interesting in 2016 I replaced the GPR with the Monster one, well I didn't know until I read "HD RIDER" reply here and I did further investigating, Found out That I replaced the wrong one.(I replaced the one right next to the GPR) So I have another one being delivered tomorrow, then I'll change that out.All of my Glow plugs were Shot (No reading on the Ohm meter) Now I just need to wait for some cold weather. Some of you had said that I didn't need to replace the Valve cover gaskets. But I just turned 200,000 a few weeks ago, I just didn't want to take a chance, So I replaced it all with OEM parts.
Thanks for the help
 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 03:10 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Salmon Guy
Well the glow plugs are in. I did the drivers side last Friday, Saturday morning I got the call that my 86 year old mother had passed. So I couldn't get back into it. Today I tore in at 9{00 am everything went smooth except I had my head up my a--, As I was putting the valve cover bolts back in, I looked over and saw a NEW glow plug. So I took the valve cover back off and removed the front glow plug, it was the old one. I got ahead of myself and reinstalled it, So it's all good now. I'm warming the engine to change the oil.
Something interesting in 2016 I replaced the GPR with the Monster one, well I didn't know until I read "HD RIDER" reply here and I did further investigating, Found out That I replaced the wrong one.(I replaced the one right next to the GPR) So I have another one being delivered tomorrow, then I'll change that out.All of my Glow plugs were Shot (No reading on the Ohm meter) Now I just need to wait for some cold weather. Some of you had said that I didn't need to replace the Valve cover gaskets. But I just turned 200,000 a few weeks ago, I just didn't want to take a chance, So I replaced it all with OEM parts.
Thanks for the help
‘Sorry to hear about your mom. Be glad you caught it before you had it al buttoned up. I went with the Stancor GPR. If you get everything done and still have problems, my guess as I stated earlier...injectors.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 03:48 PM
  #42  
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Condolences for you and your family for your loss. It is tough to let them go.

When I get under the valve covers to do GP's one day, I too will replace the gaskets and harnesses with OEM just for good measure. Good to hear that the GP swap went very well, you never can tell with these things.

I laughed about you replacing the AIH relay. I helped a buddy of mine test and eventually replace his GPR. I was testing the wrong one for the first 10 minutes and couldn't figure out why it wasn't providing any voltage on any of the terminals. We looked it up to verify I was right, and I was wrong. Swapped the faulty GPR out and all was well on his 7.3 again.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 08:06 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Colorado350


‘Sorry to hear about your mom. Be glad you caught it before you had it al buttoned up. I went with the Stancor GPR. If you get everything done and still have problems, my guess as I stated earlier...injectors.
I guess injectors can give different symptoms when they are bad? About 13 years ago, My truck would run rough once in awhile (Not always) Like a miss in a gasoline engine. It would come and go. I finally took it to a Diesel repair shop. Two days later, and almost $1200 I got it back, They replaced one injector and as they put it a new Wiring harness in the valve cover that had gone bad. Back then I could afford a shop bill like that, Times change now I have to do it myself. Anyway my point is I haven't had a symptom like that "Miss" hasn't ever come back. Also when I was having the cold start issue I would always have a lot of WHITE unburnt fuel out the tail pipe. I wonder how much that same shop would have charged me to replace all the Glow plugs?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 08:23 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by HD Rider
There's a ton of good advice in this thread but it seems a bit confusing. I would hate to see you go through a bunch of work and spend a bunch of money without actually fixing your problem. There is a simple and free process for diagnosing your glow plugs system.
First get out your ohm meter. Set it to the lowest ohm setting. Touching the leads on the meter together, it should read zero.
Now pull the nine pin connector at the valve covers. The pins are as follows.
Glow plug
Glow plug
Injector
Injector
Injector common
Injector
Injector
Glow plug
Glow plug
With one meter lead to ground, the other to a glow plug pin the meter should read between .8-1.5 ohms. A read above 2, or no reading at all indicates a burned out glow plug.
If all the plugs check out okay, plug the 9 pin connectors back in making sure they are fully seated. Now set your meter to volts to measure battery voltage. Put the black ground lead on the glow plug relay output post (the large post with the smaller wires attached). The positive meter lead on the other large post of the relay. Your meter should read battery voltage 12.5 or so. Holding those leads in place with a cold engine, have a helper turn the key to on. When the glow plugs energize, the voltage will drop. A reading above 2 volts indicates a bad relay.

If the glow plug system checks out okay, but your truck still won't start without being plugged in, I see injectors in your future.

I hope this helps.
Mine would not show any reading what so ever, every one of them, the digital reader would not even move. But when I test the same way with new glow plugs the meter would show some numbers then stop at zero, exactly like it does if I touch the 2 probes on the tester to each other. Another thing I did was to take the old injectors and touch the leads to each end, nothing would happen with all 8 of the old injectors. But I did the same thing with the new glow plugs, the Meter would move up and then level and hold at zero. I did it those two ways and then I did it with the old plugs grounded to the negative battery post, I still got no reading at all from the old plugs.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 01:21 PM
  #45  
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timmyboy76
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Sorry to hear about your mom...
i know how much of a pita it is to test gp's and inhectors at the connection. So, i got one of these..muck easier and stays in the travel 7.3 goodie bag

 
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