had a new windshield installed today, they just left. I supplied the gasket, and they used a Ford windshield. my truck has the stainless trim, took two guys 1 1/2 hrs to get it done. worth every bit of the $220 they charged me.

 

I always loving driving a vehicle with a fresh window in it. Of course now you will drive in complete paranoia of any vehicle within distance of throwing a rock at it!!!!!

 

A guy I knew that was a Packard collector bought a new 1967 F100 from Tom Sherlock Ford in South Pasadena, drove it home and parked it in his driveway.

One of the neighborhoods brats he was having problems with, threw a rock that broke the back window.

He drove it into the garage, never drove it again! 15 years later when he died, a friend of mine bought his Packard cars and parts collection and the pickup that had 7 miles on it.

 

Guarantee you those installers were well experienced given the difficulty level especially with the trim.

 

Seems like a great price. The one in my '79 cost about the same (maybe $240 or so?) too. But that was 30 years ago!!!!
So I'd say the price you got has single-handedly held back inflation for a few more years.

Paul

 

I don't think installation is that bad. It's only tough compared to today's drop in/glue style windows. This one you have to hold rubber gasket on, rope it and then work it onto the pinch seam. Then all you need to do is snap the stainless into the slot of the gasket.
My '69 rear window rubber is getting very dry/cracked. The stainless corner pieces are coming loose and trying to fall out.

 

I need a new windshield for my '72. The glass isn't too expensive, but the shipping is a killer. I'm going to check the local places for a price, including installation. I did one- once. No thanks.

 

Windshield is the same: 1967/72 F100/750; 1973/79 F100/880; 1978/79 Bronco.

Windshield is available from auto glass shops, the NAGS (National Auto Glass Society) number is W819

Specify clear, tinted or sun band. Even if you have to order it, there should not be any shipping charges if you pick it up at a glass shop.

However, the weatherstrip is 1967/72 F100/750 only and there are two types: With or without stainless steel windshield reveal mouldings.

 

All the research I did on this site said the trim has to be installed in the gasket before the windshield is installed. I needed to do both my back window and my windshield. I bought the recommended Carpenter gaskets for Ranger trim. I started with the back window thinking I'd do the easiest one first. I put the rubber on the glass and then tried to install the trim but I couldn't do it. I taped everything in place as I went along. The trim kept falling out and it was slow and difficult to get in. After struggling with the back glass trim I said **** on it and bought two new non-trim gaskets.
It took me and two buddies a lot of work and struggle to get the windshield in. I used the rope and lubrication method. For a while I thought they sent me the wrong windshield the way the sides were sticking out. It doesn't take the contour of the opening until it fully sitting in place. It doesn't just plop into place. We got it in and we were never stumped but it wasn't fun.

 

yup, the stainless has to go on BEFORE the glass goes in the truck. it took the two pro glass guy 1 1/2 hours to get the stainless done, and he was happy it only took that long.

 

I had safelite install their glass an use my DC gasket it was a two man job with the trim that showed that was a 90 minute installation job.
I told it back 4 times cause it leaked even from light rain while driving, the next time the trim was not seated enough the window was to far to one side so it leaked..

After wasting about 6 hrs+ at there shop, I finely said sew it an wait for summer. Well mid summer, I took the truck to the loco car wash it your self place.
I had forgot about the window leaking as, I was hitting the window shield with pretty high pressure spray was when, I remember the leak..
Got done an got in and looked around the floor for water to be dripping from under the dash but none.

Well, I guess the gasket was to stiff to make a good seal as just needed a few months or warmer weather to seal good.
I guess they should have used a heat gun to warm up the gasket a little since it was down in the high 50/s temp each time they removed the window shield to get the leaking gasket fixed..
The shops done use any of the old sticky sealer like what was used back in the day they just installed it dry no lube just roped it in..
At times it was like a dog chasing it tail with the trim popping out on the other side..
Orich .

 

I've been lucky, the only rear windows I've done are sliders and you can't use the trim so left it out. I know I didn't have any leak issues with the installs. You do need to get the rubber softened up and work it around.

Guess I won't be jumping too quickly to replace my back rubber on my '69?? Ugh. The lower left corner piece of SS keeps coming loose and I don't want to loose it completely while driving it someday. The rubber is very dry and cracked.

The last front window I had done was my '70 back in about 1994? It was like $170 installed. $220 isn't bad for inflation in 24 yrs.

 

My rear slider went in petty easy I had a tube of the oem type non hardening stick tar gasket sealer I got online a few yrs back.
I almost forgot that ya pull the rope core from the inside, the new DC rear gasket seal went in ok but this time use some of those curved
nylon body tools that sure help getting the lip over the pinched sheet metal.

I will say those nylon body tools are sure worth having around even if you only use them a once or twice in 10 yrs..

Orich