Another aod question
#1
Another aod question
Im sure this has been covered plenty of times but im having a few issues setting up my aod to where it shifts nicely.
Bit of background, its an 82 F150 XLT 302w running an edelbrock carb with the aod corrector bracket. Ive installed a lokar tv cable, throttle cable and bracket. Initially i had it set up following lokars instructions getting readings from the TV port etc. It shifted very early and did not want to down shift unless i was close to a complete stop. After that i read the how to in this forum and adjusted the TV to be maxed out at WOT, it ran better but still does not down shift unless you press hard or come to a stop. So i adjusted it further and it would shift the way i expected and not hold in 4th or 3rd, but this way the TV cable prevents the carb from fully opening.
Is there any ways to get these trannies to shift better or is it just the way they are?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bit of background, its an 82 F150 XLT 302w running an edelbrock carb with the aod corrector bracket. Ive installed a lokar tv cable, throttle cable and bracket. Initially i had it set up following lokars instructions getting readings from the TV port etc. It shifted very early and did not want to down shift unless i was close to a complete stop. After that i read the how to in this forum and adjusted the TV to be maxed out at WOT, it ran better but still does not down shift unless you press hard or come to a stop. So i adjusted it further and it would shift the way i expected and not hold in 4th or 3rd, but this way the TV cable prevents the carb from fully opening.
Is there any ways to get these trannies to shift better or is it just the way they are?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Im sure this has been covered plenty of times but im having a few issues setting up my aod to where it shifts nicely.
Bit of background, its an 82 F150 XLT 302w running an edelbrock carb with the aod linkage. Ive installed a lokar tv cable, throttle cable and bracket. Initially i had it set up following lokars instructions getting readings from the TV port etc. It shifted very early and did not want to down shift unless i was close to a complete stop. After that i read the how to in this forum and adjusted the TV to be maxed out at WOT, it ran better but still does not down shift unless you press hard or come to a stop. So i adjusted it further and it would shift the way i expected and not hold in 4th or 3rd, but this way the TV cable prevents the carb from fully opening.
Is there any ways to get these trannies to shift better or is it just the way they are?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bit of background, its an 82 F150 XLT 302w running an edelbrock carb with the aod linkage. Ive installed a lokar tv cable, throttle cable and bracket. Initially i had it set up following lokars instructions getting readings from the TV port etc. It shifted very early and did not want to down shift unless i was close to a complete stop. After that i read the how to in this forum and adjusted the TV to be maxed out at WOT, it ran better but still does not down shift unless you press hard or come to a stop. So i adjusted it further and it would shift the way i expected and not hold in 4th or 3rd, but this way the TV cable prevents the carb from fully opening.
Is there any ways to get these trannies to shift better or is it just the way they are?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is likely a combination of factors the Edelbrock add on kit and the Lokar cable set up. It should not shift like that. Go through the setup process again to make sure it was done right.. I'm not fan of the Lokar set up and the Edelbrock AOD add on is a bit of a cluster. The TV cable/rod ratio is not 1:1 from carb to trans. And the EFI and Carb TV levers on the trans are not the same distance from centerline so no idea what Edelbrock or Lokar set up theirs for. It likely is a ratio mismatch causing the issues.
#3
This is likely a combination of factors the Edelbrock add on kit and the Lokar cable set up. It should not shift like that. Go through the setup process again to make sure it was done right.. I'm not fan of the Lokar set up and the Edelbrock AOD add on is a bit of a cluster. The TV cable/rod ratio is not 1:1 from carb to trans. And the EFI and Carb TV levers on the trans are not the same distance from centerline so no idea what Edelbrock or Lokar set up theirs for. It likely is a ratio mismatch causing the issues.
This set up was all I could find to make any aftermarket carb work.
#4
The only thing you could do is give is measurements from centerline to attachment points on the TV's and see how much you are out.
#5
Out of interest is there a way to tell if the aod is within safe working conditions and wont blow up a few months down the track?
#6
Thanks mate, ill have a go at it again tomorrow. Ive got it to a point where it will shift into od at around 43mph which seems to be normal. Downshifting is still average, it likes to stay in third most of the time unless i give it half throttle. The TV cable is maxxed out at WOT so thats as good as Im going to get it with this set up I think. I was hoping the lokar kit wouldve been better suited for the application, Ive seen they have updated it to no longer need the corrector bracket. I might invest in that if this gives me more headaches.
Out of interest is there a way to tell if the aod is within safe working conditions and wont blow up a few months down the track?
Out of interest is there a way to tell if the aod is within safe working conditions and wont blow up a few months down the track?
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...tci-431000.pdf
#7
Yes. You need to set the TV with a pressure gauge.
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...tci-431000.pdf
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...tci-431000.pdf
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#8
Yes. You need to set the TV with a pressure gauge.
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...tci-431000.pdf
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...tci-431000.pdf
The older Lokar kits (like mine) requires a TV corrector bracket bolted to the carburetor in order to shift correctly. Make sure you have the correct bracket for your carburetor. The newer kits changed the bracket on the transmission end to accomplish the same thing. Make sure the TV cable uses the correct hole for your carburetor.
Since you changed your carburetor, make sure your TV cable is pulling straight, or parallel. If it isn't, the geometry will be off and it won't shift correctly.
Watch the video below. It is talking about the GM 700R4 with a Holley, but the same principles apply:
#9
Every time I tried that method, I get the same results as woosa - early shifts. That method is probably to achieve the safest, *minimum* TV pressure. Full size luxury cars used that setting, but I think trucks and Mustangs used a bit more TV pressure. If you set the TV cable to achieve full pull at full throttle, I have found that the shifts are more positive and the transmission is much more responsive. That is how I set it on my own truck. If you look on your driver's side visor or in your owner's manual, it states that overdrive should come in right around 45 MPH under moderate throttle.
The older Lokar kits (like mine) requires a TV corrector bracket bolted to the carburetor in order to shift correctly. Make sure you have the correct bracket for your carburetor. The newer kits changed the bracket on the transmission end to accomplish the same thing. Make sure the TV cable uses the correct hole for your carburetor.
Since you changed your carburetor, make sure your TV cable is pulling straight, or parallel. If it isn't, the geometry will be off and it won't shift correctly.
Watch the video below. It is talking about the GM 700R4 with a Holley, but the same principles apply:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWQhO3Zu6Z0
The older Lokar kits (like mine) requires a TV corrector bracket bolted to the carburetor in order to shift correctly. Make sure you have the correct bracket for your carburetor. The newer kits changed the bracket on the transmission end to accomplish the same thing. Make sure the TV cable uses the correct hole for your carburetor.
Since you changed your carburetor, make sure your TV cable is pulling straight, or parallel. If it isn't, the geometry will be off and it won't shift correctly.
Watch the video below. It is talking about the GM 700R4 with a Holley, but the same principles apply:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWQhO3Zu6Z0
I hate the cable set ups they stretch and go out of adjustment and are generally just a pain. Even Ford had issues with TV cables stretching and going out of adjustment.
The Rod set up is so much easier to deal with and never goes out of adjustment.
And the set up procedure was the same for all vehicles..
#10
#11
Full pull (or more TV pressure) will make the AOD more responsive with firmer, more positive upshifts and it will downshift quicker. Lower TV pressure will result in lazy, softer upshifts and delayed downshifting.
EDIT: If TV pressure is set too high, upshifts will be late and hard and the TV cable will physically prevent the throttle lever from reaching full throttle. This can result in the TV cable being pulled out of adjustment at wide open throttle and/or stretch. Also, the AOD will have a harder time automatically downshifting when coming to a complete stop.
#12
My personal opinion reading this thread, I think you guys are fighting the way the trans was setup from the factory. I can't prove it, but early soft shifts (not too soft though) and delayed downshifting sound like fuel saving measures, and with the EPA breathing down their necks, I be that was their priority in the factory transmission setup.
#13
81 would have been the rod the cable was used behind EFI motors. The rod is the most reliable set up.
#14
That is incorrect.
Full pull (or more TV pressure) will make the AOD more responsive with firmer, more positive upshifts and it will downshift quicker. Lower TV pressure will result in lazy, softer upshifts and delayed downshifting.
EDIT: If TV pressure is set too high, upshifts will be late and hard and the TV cable will physically prevent the throttle lever from reaching full throttle. This can result in the TV cable being pulled out of adjustment at wide open throttle and/or stretch. Also, the AOD will have a harder time automatically downshifting when coming to a complete stop.
Full pull (or more TV pressure) will make the AOD more responsive with firmer, more positive upshifts and it will downshift quicker. Lower TV pressure will result in lazy, softer upshifts and delayed downshifting.
EDIT: If TV pressure is set too high, upshifts will be late and hard and the TV cable will physically prevent the throttle lever from reaching full throttle. This can result in the TV cable being pulled out of adjustment at wide open throttle and/or stretch. Also, the AOD will have a harder time automatically downshifting when coming to a complete stop.
And it is far cheaper than the lokar cable set up.
#15
Well after everything Ive determined Im an idiot lol. Turns out I have the newer style lokar cable, so take away the corrector bracket, set it up and everythings fine. I have set the line pressure higher just like lariat and i can still reach WOT.
i guess it pays to read the instructions thoroughly.
Thanks for the help everyone 👍
i guess it pays to read the instructions thoroughly.
Thanks for the help everyone 👍