I believe the 2nd pic piece goes on top of the transmission between the trans and the cover to support the seal around the shift tower on the floor shift trans.

 

Yup, that's it.

 

 

 

Engine news came back today. Block has no cracks but does have a taper, will need bored .030 over. I'm looking at this as good news that the 70 year old block can be rebuilt. He has to take the crank in to the shop to get it checked for bearing size.

 

You can easily keep the gauge cluster 6 volts, just install a resistor for the gauges. I bought one several years ago for around $20.

At the time I was researching I discovered Ford had kept 6 volt instrument clusters into the 70's!, so parts are readily available.

 

The 600 cost on the guage cluster was to repair, paint, check repair guages and convert to 12v

 

So, to get the gauges to work on 12V, you'd need three voltage reducers, which are approximately $20 apiece from Speedway ($60 total). You can reface the gauges with decals that run about $40. What's left after that is a fresh coat of paint on the face plate, (also maybe the gauge needles), wiring for the gauges, and new bulbs for the gauge lights. I'll guess at $50 for the rest. Which means for around $150, you can have a pretty sharp looking gauge cluster that runs on 12V. Of course, that's assuming that all your gauges are currently in working order.

 

 

The cowl lids

 

Boxes and shelves of parts.

 

Turned the truck around and sat the old bed on. Just looking at it as a template for making a new one.

 

New bedsides dont have this piece and i didn't see it on the catalog.

Looking for help to find the piece that appears to be sitting on top of the front crossmember.

Appears to be a channel running down the inside of the bed.

 

Patches stitched on

My good fenders


at what point do I say. New is better than trying to fix these.

 

Paited truck color but with holes for trim strips.

This one was painted silver and had no holes for trim strips