i have two gauge assemblies. This one has some wiring remaining. The other does not. I can see in the supplier catalogs that I can get new face “decals”. Is there a good way to troubleshoot the gauges? Remember I am going to convert to 12 volt, understand I need to add a voltage reducer to each electrical gauge.

 

Two wiper motors. Is there a company out there to rebuild them? Are they worth rebuilding vs. adding an electric conversion? I assume the linkage piece tells me both trucks had dual wipers.

 

Same questions on the heater. Rebuild? Is this easy enough for me to complete? Somewhere out there to send it off to have it refurbished?

 

again no idea what this is? Where it goes on the truck.

 

Heater control? I have seen 4 hole controls in the catalogs. Why do I have a two hole panel?

 

Not enough pics about these two. No catch/ keeper on the ash tray. Can this be purchased ? The glove box door has hinge attached. I also have, loose of course, what appears to be a spring. U shaped clip thing. No catch to keep the glove box door closed. Not sure how that works.

 

 

These are air deflectors that mount on both sides of your radiator near the top.

 

Understood on the fenders. Your skill set is well above my start point.

Post #13: Defroster pieces have a right and left. As most heaters were dealer installed, there would be natural variations discovered. Don't over think this one. Install the set that fits best and move along.

Post #14: The hood trim on the 49s was on the nose openings (including the hood release) and three pieces along each side (by the slots on the vertical surfaces). The piece shown is not stock. There also wasn't any stock piece on the nose - above the openings. It wasn't uncommon for owners to install aftermarket pieces.

Post #15: That appears to be a courtesy light that may have been in the glove box. Set it aside for now, not critical until you get to the rewiring stage.

Post #16: The gauge set looks to be in decent shape. You are correct that there are decals available for the faces. The larger face that holds the gauges doesn't have a ready fix from a supplier. You'll note the odd texture on the ivory/beige surface. Others have rehabed in some way - or just sanded down and resprayed as best they could. No bad solutions here.

The Shop Manual has a section on checking the gauges, as I recall. There was also a previous thread on here as well. I'll let others help find them. It seems that using flashlight batteries came into play.

Post #17: Wipers can be rehabed by a novice. There is a rebuilder - wiperman.com - that can also be used.

Post #18: The heater is a very doable rehab. If the core is sound - great. If not, and there is a radiator shop nearby, have them look at it along with the engine radiator. There are 12v motors available from a couple of sources, including NAPA. Firstrider, a member on this forum, specializes in restoring heater units. Look him up and he is certain to help.

Post #19: Those are horn mounting brackets - one has a horn relay still attached. Keep those.

Post #20: Again, as there were a variety of heaters there were a variety of heater control types. A two hole control was very common for recirculating heaters - the type shown in your earlier post.

Post #21: Two separate issues here. The ash tray does have two pieces, the tray itself (with the attendent bracket) and the front piece. Not sure about repops. They do show up on the buy/sell section here and on ebay periodically.

The glove box door is held closed with the u-spring. There isn't a latch or catch for this vintage.

See, not so bad. Keep the pics and questions coming Blick.

 

Hey Blick,
Nice going on posting the parts pics.. You'll generate lot's of interest & responses.
A few thoughts:
o Yes the c-clip is for keeping the glove box closed/latched. It doesn't work that well
in our experience. It also is a good paint scratcher if your dash is already painted.
We use small magnets to keep the glove box closed. It flies open otherwise.

o A member "firstrider" is our resident heater expert on here. He can rebuild
your heater or supply you with the necessary parts.

o We also have a member "reamer" who does cab corners & other
sheet metal pieces for '48 - '52 trucks. His parts fit our challenging curves.

Good luck over there!

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Your fuel, oil, and temperature gauges can be tested with a couple of c or d cell batteries. If I recall correctly, one will move the gauge halfway, and two will move it all the way. Someone smarter than me can correct me if I'm wrong. Also, there's a weep hole on the back the speedometer that you will want to use to oil it if it's sat for any period of time.

 

Also, if you haven't already, I'd recommend going over to the LMC truck and Mid Fifty websites and request their catalogs. Thumbing through those may help you determine what you have and what you need. Of course, we are always happy to help here as well.

 

 

We tested gauges in our old Volvos with battery. Just hook up wires to the gauges and touch them to separate poles of the batteries. If they work, they'll swing. If you're going 12V, you'll likely need to get 12V-ready sending units for most of them, or I think there are 12v voltage converters that can be installed behind the gauges to have them read correctly. You can definitely find them at LMC, Mid-Fifty, and Dennis Carpenter.

Good luck with the build! And keep the pics coming...

 

Post #28
First pic - still the horn brackets. They fit between the radiator support (the big u-shaped thing) and the inner fenders.
Second/Third pics - not sure on these yet.
Fourth pic - rear fender braces