When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thank you. Do you know if their gearboxes are rebuilt to the same precision as Redhead? I've installed several RH's, but the last two leaked from the shaft seal.
No clue but RH reviews over the past few years don't impress me.
I've got 4500 hard towing miles on my box from West Texas Off-road and zero issues.
I happened to be outside cleaning the yard and debris from Florence when Byron asked me about my steering work experiences.
I told him the following (paraphrasing)...
1. I would get a gallon of Valvoline synthetic ATF from Autozone for ~$7.
2. Raise the front end of the truck and flush the fluid system until he saw fresh fluid and see if things got easier.
3. He could disconnect the trackbar from the pitman arm and eliminate any binding the in the linkage to identify if the problem is in the steering gear or maybe the pump.
4. I asked about the adjustment screw and if it had ever been tightened.
5. I asked if the steering gear was original to the truck.
Maybe a couple of other things too, but don't remember now...
Sous, I got your text bud. Thanks!! Sorry I didn't get back to you. I was out of cell range until after supper and I think you are two hours ahead of me. Didn't wanna bug ya too late. I'll take a look at this and also what John said.
Originally Posted by Colorado350
Byron, before flushing the system check for cavitation as I mentioned in my first post. Flushing isn't going to fix a bad pump and it's free and takes 10 minutes.
West Texas Off Road does a great job, whether it's rebuilding your gear box or porting it for Hydro assist. They ported my PSC gearbox and did an outstanding job!
John, thanks my friend. I'll take a look in the morning. I am going to be going through the truck to take along trip this week. Hopefully I can get it taken care of before I head out.
Originally Posted by hydro man 17
Just one other thought. Have you checked the condition of the ball joints? One of the older truck at work had some pretty bad ball joints and it was difficult to keep it even close to staying on the road. Very tight to drive and the steering would not return to normal position after making even a slight turn.
Ball joints are fairly new and I checked them when i did the brakes this summer. They are tight I believe.
Originally Posted by akcooper9
Yes they can and do. The Brad and I both have modified PS pumps.
Byron, Maybe the truck found out you intend to move to Kommeifornia...and said, "Not if I have anything to say about it"!
Sounds like your pump died. If you open PS reservoir cover with truck running do you see an cavitation? What about when someone tries to turn the wheel if you have it on idle does it stop when you try to turn the wheel? If you don't see any cavitation or it stops it's your pump. Your brakes may also feel very soft and ineffective because the pump helps with braking too.
John, it's really odd, but your post did not show up until tonight. Timmayyyyyyyyyyyy's post was the first response, but now yours is there as the first one. Odd!!!!
Anyways, I'll look in the morning. I can remove the cap with the truck running? And yes, it pretty much stops unless I give it throttle. I'd love the hydro kit and all, but budget may not allow it just yet. I'll do a check and get back to you. Thanks!!
John, it's really odd, but your post did not show up until tonight. Timmayyyyyyyyyyyy's post was the first response, but now yours is there as the first one. Odd!!!!
Anyways, I'll look in the morning. I can remove the cap with the truck running? And yes, it pretty much stops unless I give it throttle. I'd love the hydro kit and all, but budget may not allow it just yet. I'll do a check and get back to you. Thanks!!
Yes, you can remove the cap while running. If no cavitation. I would say yes it’s your pump, you should see cavitation if the truck is running. When you give it throttle you should see... BTW, have you notified any brake issues, lack of solid braking, brake fade etc?
Yes, you can remove the cap while running. If no cavitation. I would say yes it’s your pump, you should see cavitation if the truck is running. When you give it throttle you should see... BTW, have you notified any brake issues, lack of solid braking, brake fade etc?
I hadn't noticed any brake issues and that is what made me wonder. They are tight and truck stops the best it ever has since doing the rear brakes this summer. What will I see if it there is cavitation?
To provide a different perspective to what John is saying, I can see a definitive drop (cavitation) of the fluid level with the cap off the reservoir, truck running and having someone depress the brakes or turn the wheel. This is because the pump is displacing fluid in the system and being refilled by the return at the same time. If the fluid appears to be stagnant, then this is what John is having you look for and as he said, would be a good sign of a pump needing to be replaced.
So, what you should see is what looks like a bit of a fluid level drop and some turbulence in the fluid. The fluid turbulence will be different than what the engine is making the fluid do just from vibration.
One thing you should keep an eye out for is in the following video.
I am not sure if you remember this issue I was having a few months back that turned out to be air in the system. Although, this problem did not present itself until about 6 months after replacing the steering gear and the ambient air temperature was in the 30's for a few days in a row. I just went out to start the truck and immediately noticed the issue and did not coorelate the problem to the hydroboost system because the steering gear had been replaced several months before that. I spent all day trouble shooting the issue and then flushed it with the fluid I had on hand from the gear change. Timmy was right, it was the fluid or air in the system and after about 1/2 a gallon, things were good.
I pushed another quart of fluid through just to be sure and all has been good since.
The ones that have the WTO rebuild, did you send yours or pay the core?
I sent mine in because it was a $900 PSC gearbox. Turn around was about 9 days including a weekend. They tore it down to port it, checked everything, said it was in excellent shape, ported it then sent it back.
Didn't you have some issues with the plumbing/lines from the WTO kit? Or perhaps you were just overthinking it like I tend to do?
I didn't read the instructions on how to modify or upgrade the pump, you probably have to remove it to do so?
Lines provided would work for a stock truck but I have a 3inch lift and due to where I mounted the ram, I needed to tweak the lines a bit. No big deal though.
I removed the pump and took it with me to WTOR and they modified it.
I hadn't noticed any brake issues and that is what made me wonder. They are tight and truck stops the best it ever has since doing the rear brakes this summer. What will I see if it there is cavitation?
Byron, the pump will always be "moving" fluid, (in the reservoir) if truck is running. However, once the pump is actually engaged you're going to see a bit of fluid level change but not much because the system is, or should be full. Often the pump works fine, you'll see cavitation WITHOUT a load on it but once a substantial load is put on it, the pump quits working. When mine went the steering was exceptionally hard but the brakes worked very good 90% of the time. But that 10% left me with a butt full of seat fabric because the brakes became very soft without warning.
You can put a pressure tester on the pump BETWEEN pump and gearbox and see what kind of PSI you're actually getting. You'll test it at idle to see ideal pressure IIRC 125-200 is in spec, then you'll use the restriction valve to dead head the pump, you should see PSI of 1425-1525 (ish). Repeat the test at least 2 more times to see if the pressures return to within 50 psi of the first test. If you see them return within 50 psi the pump is good.
I would start with a flush. Even if it doesn't fix the problem it's good for the system and if it does end up needing a new pump it won't get old crud pumped though it.
I would start with a flush. Even if it doesn't fix the problem it's good for the system and if it does end up needing a new pump it won't get old crud pumped though it.
Thats a good idear, right there but speaking for myself, if id go the WTO route, id have an oem reman ps pump to follow...not dign too much into wto site, are there "stages" to order by or its just a 1-deal pump?
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.