Turning up pump 6.9
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New User
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Turning up pump 6.9
Ive been looking to turn up the pump on my 6.9 and saw people saying to run a pyro gauge. Is a pyro gauge just an egt gauge? And do I really need it if I only turn it up 1/4? And my truck will spit quite a bit of black smoke if I take off in second wthout reving up the truck and just letting off clutch normally (not burning or riding it) So did they smoke from the factory or is my pump already turned up?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
Likes: 48
From: California
Do you have a turbo?
A pyro is AKA a EGT gauge
1/4 flat? Probably wouldn't affect much. The bare minimum to notice anything would be a half flat, and even then, it might not be noticeable.
If your truck is already coal rolling, then I wouldn't turn up your pump more.
I think your pump is already turned up by whoever serviced the IP last.
Why are turning it up? Are you trying to eek out some more power? If you are already smoking at initial acceleration, then you are pretty much tuned to the best position of the fuel screw. If you want more power, you should time your IP instead of turning it up. You could have it mis-timed, which would lead to some smoking or just inefficiency and lack of power.
And if you are running a turbo and turned-up IP, then you should definitely have a pyro. You are just asking for engine problems if you exceed 1200 deg F in your manifold.
A pyro is AKA a EGT gauge
1/4 flat? Probably wouldn't affect much. The bare minimum to notice anything would be a half flat, and even then, it might not be noticeable.
If your truck is already coal rolling, then I wouldn't turn up your pump more.
I think your pump is already turned up by whoever serviced the IP last.
Why are turning it up? Are you trying to eek out some more power? If you are already smoking at initial acceleration, then you are pretty much tuned to the best position of the fuel screw. If you want more power, you should time your IP instead of turning it up. You could have it mis-timed, which would lead to some smoking or just inefficiency and lack of power.
And if you are running a turbo and turned-up IP, then you should definitely have a pyro. You are just asking for engine problems if you exceed 1200 deg F in your manifold.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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With a N/A engine, you want to turn /down/ the fuel until you just get the slightest haze at full throttle, high RPM. Too much fuel = high EGTs, lessened motor life because of it, lower fuel economy, and at extreme overfueling, you'll actually make /less/ power.
The solution for this problem, of course, is a turbo. Add a turbo, then add fuel to match. With a 6.9, you either add headstuds or limit your boost to around 6 psi... which is still worth a good 50% more HP than stock.
The solution for this problem, of course, is a turbo. Add a turbo, then add fuel to match. With a 6.9, you either add headstuds or limit your boost to around 6 psi... which is still worth a good 50% more HP than stock.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: California
I don't think it would add 50% more HP than stock. From what I read, the IDIT's got only a handful more HP with the turbo, but the substantial increase was in the improved torque.
Regardless, If the OP truly is an NA IDI, then adding a turbo would be good regardless of the minor HP/major TQ improvement.
Elder User
Joined: May 2018
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Right, both ATS and Banks advertised about a 30% HP gain. However, the factory IDIT HP rating was somewhat misleading because during that era insurance companies were basing premiums on HP ratings so the auto/truck industry were stating HP on the low side according to the automotive mags. But the Ford factory turbos (ATS) were derated due to the small turbo outlet and smaller exhaust system. The exhaust system directly from ATS was a 3", with straight through muffler and Ford factory turbos were only 2 1/2.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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This is what Ford did with the IDIT.
Take that same kit, crank the IP fuel screw up and you can easily add that 50% more HP(Stock being best case around 125 on the dyno(seen 85 before on a N/A bricknose), 190-200 being typical for a cranked factory turbo/stock IP setup*).
Now, less boost may or may not get you to that 190-200 number, though I did that with a Banks setup at 7-ish PSI last year. It looks like the pump runs out of fuel at the top end before being able to use a whole 15 or whatever.
*Note:
I was just at Hunting 4 Horsepower yesterday. We had a couple IDIs run, including at least one 'factory turbo' swap/pump crank on a bricknose. He put down 196 on the dyno.
This dyno is the same one that had been putting out low numbers all day due to not loading the trucks sufficiently, so the numbers could be on the low side depending.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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If its NA, turning up the pump wont get you anything, just lower fuel mileage and it will smoke.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2018
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I don't think it would add 50% more HP than stock. From what I read, the IDIT's got only a handful more HP with the turbo, but the substantial increase was in the improved torque.
Regardless, If the OP truly is an NA IDI, then adding a turbo would be good regardless of the minor HP/major TQ improvement.
Regardless, If the OP truly is an NA IDI, then adding a turbo would be good regardless of the minor HP/major TQ improvement.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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Thats funny Raymond, i was looking through some ATS paperwork, and the later ones they dont even recommend turning up the fuel screw, only adjusting the torque screw until you get a haze blipping the throttle. They even send a little piece of tinted lexan for reference lol.
IMO, if you have a turbo and youre turning up the fuel, max it out, its going to go there anyway because, well who doesnt want more power. Save yourself the work of doing it twice.
IMO, if you have a turbo and youre turning up the fuel, max it out, its going to go there anyway because, well who doesnt want more power. Save yourself the work of doing it twice.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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Thats funny Raymond, i was looking through some ATS paperwork, and the later ones they dont even recommend turning up the fuel screw, only adjusting the torque screw until you get a haze blipping the throttle. They even send a little piece of tinted lexan for reference lol.
IMO, if you have a turbo and youre turning up the fuel, max it out, its going to go there anyway because, well who doesnt want more power. Save yourself the work of doing it twice.
IMO, if you have a turbo and youre turning up the fuel, max it out, its going to go there anyway because, well who doesnt want more power. Save yourself the work of doing it twice.
Don't forget the torque screw(if there is one) - that's a major top-end drain(On the dyno last year I dyno'd a maxed pump rig at 150-ish HP; backed the torque screw out 1/4" to completely disable it and it laid down 200 a couple hours later). With the torque screw at stock position, it'll smoke badly flooring it at idle, but pull fuel at the top end.
Elder User
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 695
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Thats funny Raymond, i was looking through some ATS paperwork, and the later ones they dont even recommend turning up the fuel screw, only adjusting the torque screw until you get a haze blipping the throttle. They even send a little piece of tinted lexan for reference lol.
IMO, if you have a turbo and youre turning up the fuel, max it out, its going to go there anyway because, well who doesnt want more power. Save yourself the work of doing it twice.
IMO, if you have a turbo and youre turning up the fuel, max it out, its going to go there anyway because, well who doesnt want more power. Save yourself the work of doing it twice.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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The 093 kit came out in 93, the 088 in 88, and 085 in 85. Pumps with torque screws started somewhere in the 92 model year as rumor goes. My 92 had serpentine belts, but no torque screw. I dont know if they started when the turbos were an option or when.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,298
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From: NJ
You need a pyro. My old 6.9 would be at piston melting temperatures unloaded up steep hills, and that was with a turbo. It would be worse with no turbo. Towing and if I had no pyro and didn't have a feel for what was safe from driving by the pyro I would have melted pistons long before it lifted a head from a higher output pump and more boost. Driving by the pyro I got 4 years out of that engine before it failed, an inevitability with factory head bolts.
Also there is such a thing as too much fuel, likely the case if it's already smokey. With a high output pump you'll find giving it too much fuel at a low RPM or boost and it'll accelerate faster if you back out of it a bit until it's getting enough air to burn the additional fuel. In extreme cases with the really high output pumps you can stall the engine from too much fuel.
Also there is such a thing as too much fuel, likely the case if it's already smokey. With a high output pump you'll find giving it too much fuel at a low RPM or boost and it'll accelerate faster if you back out of it a bit until it's getting enough air to burn the additional fuel. In extreme cases with the really high output pumps you can stall the engine from too much fuel.
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New User
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Do you have a turbo?
A pyro is AKA a EGT gauge
1/4 flat? Probably wouldn't affect much. The bare minimum to notice anything would be a half flat, and even then, it might not be noticeable.
If your truck is already coal rolling, then I wouldn't turn up your pump more.
I think your pump is already turned up by whoever serviced the IP last.
Why are turning it up? Are you trying to eek out some more power? If you are already smoking at initial acceleration, then you are pretty much tuned to the best position of the fuel screw. If you want more power, you should time your IP instead of turning it up. You could have it mis-timed, which would lead to some smoking or just inefficiency and lack of power.
And if you are running a turbo and turned-up IP, then you should definitely have a pyro. You are just asking for engine problems if you exceed 1200 deg F in your manifold.
A pyro is AKA a EGT gauge
1/4 flat? Probably wouldn't affect much. The bare minimum to notice anything would be a half flat, and even then, it might not be noticeable.
If your truck is already coal rolling, then I wouldn't turn up your pump more.
I think your pump is already turned up by whoever serviced the IP last.
Why are turning it up? Are you trying to eek out some more power? If you are already smoking at initial acceleration, then you are pretty much tuned to the best position of the fuel screw. If you want more power, you should time your IP instead of turning it up. You could have it mis-timed, which would lead to some smoking or just inefficiency and lack of power.
And if you are running a turbo and turned-up IP, then you should definitely have a pyro. You are just asking for engine problems if you exceed 1200 deg F in your manifold.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
Likes: 48
From: California
Don't turn it up if it already smokes. If anything and considering you don't know your EGT's, you should probably turn it down a half flat to make sure you aren't exceeding the high egt's that can cause long term engine damage.
As far as I know, I don't know how to determine the current fuel screw orientation. It's just a hex allen key, so it's anybody's guess how much it's turned up.
As far as I know, I don't know how to determine the current fuel screw orientation. It's just a hex allen key, so it's anybody's guess how much it's turned up.