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Can anyone tell me the line hookup for my metering valve?
This is the way it was hooked up and could it cause my left disc brake to lock up when brake is released?
I don't know how your truck is plumbed or why, but the METERING VALVE is in no way connected to the PROPORTIONING VALVE.
The METERING VALVE is plumbed into the front disc brake plumbing circuit of the DUAL RESVR MC and the PROPORTIONING VALVE is located in the rear drum brake plumbing circuit. Both/either valve is on a separate circuit.
Did someone perform a DISC/DRUM UPGRADE from the origional OEM FOUR WHEEL DRUM SYSTEM?
What year model and series truck are we talking about here? Is this on an F250, F350 or, ....on an F100 that somebody 'worked' on? (No '67-'72 F100s came from the factory with front disc brakes).
A metering valve would only have been factory installed on a '68-'72 F250 or on an F350 that came equipped with (optional) factory front disc brakes. '68-'72 F250/F350 trucks would have come with drums all the way around, if the truck wasn't originally ordered with the optional front discs.
If it was a '68-'72 F250/F350, with factory front discs, the truck would have been equipped with a pressure differential valve (mounted inside the left frame rail, just behind the steering gearbox) along with a stand-alone metering valve (mounted to the crossmember under the engine) that would have had brake lines branching off the metering valve and out to the left and right front calipers.
If the truck is a '68-'72 F250/F350 with factory front discs, it would not have a proportioning valve for controlling the brake pressure rise to the rear drums. The proportioning feature didn't come about on the front disc brake equipped trucks until 1973 --which is when all 2WD F100s-F350s came standard with front disc brakes. 4WD trucks got front discs in '76.
I don't know how your truck is plumbed or why, but the METERING VALVE is in no way connected to the PROPORTIONING VALVE.
The METERING VALVE is plumbed into the front disc brake plumbing circuit of the DUAL RESVR MC and the PROPORTIONING VALVE is located in the rear drum brake plumbing circuit. Both/either valve is on a separate circuit.
Did someone perform a DISC/DRUM UPGRADE from the origional OEM FOUR WHEEL DRUM SYSTEM?
Someone is going to get hurt.
Thanks for the reply Kultulz... Yes, I upgraded the front brakes to disc 16 years ago and the doner truck was a 1979 f150 2wd not 4wd. The truck has not been on the road all these years and now I can't remember half the things I did back then. My problem started when I bleed the brake and when done the left front wheel was locked up but the right turned fine. If I opened the bleeder valve and let out some fluid, then the left would turn. I put a new caliper on the left and it didn't help, I tried swapping the pucks and it didn't help so I started looking at the meter valve I guess I installed back then. but now I'm starting to look at the proportioning valve.
it's driving me batty....I loaded a pic but it didn't go to the right place.
Thanks any help
Ron
Truck 1971 F100 2wd swb with 390fe no power brakes or steering wife bought new in 1970.
17 years ago I bought a front end off of a 1979 F150 explorer and used the ps, pb and front disc brakes.
I started to build the motor and then the project went hold till this year. Problem is, now I can’t remember half the things I did then. The last thing I did was work on the brakes and don’t remember installing the metering valve but I guess I did.
So, what I’ve got now is… I installed a new master cylinder, brake booster and proportioning valve and plumbed it to the rear and front metering blocks. 4 days ago I had a friend come over and he helped me bleed the brakes. I did this with the front tires off.
I put on the right tire and rotated the wheel all is good. I then put on the left wheel and tried to rotate it but it was locked tight so I opened the bleeder valve and let a little fluid out and the wheel rotated like it should. I tried putting a new caliper on the left and the same problem. I tried swapping the puck’s and still no go. Now I’m at a loss… got under the truck and seen the metering valve and thought it might be the problem but now I’m not sure. I’m going to upload a picture with this so you can see how I plumbed before.
According to Classic Performance Products Inc, If I’m going to use a “T” (metering valve?) I should use the outlet that goes to the left wheel (bottom outlet) not the right wheel outlet (top outlet) like I did. I would like to use the metering block if possible because it’s hard for me to work under the truck but it’s not a deal breaker…
With the combination valve (metering, pressure differential sensing and proportioning) installed below the MC, the other (stand-alone) metering valve isn't needed. --currently, you have TWO metering valves in series going to the front brakes. The stand-alone metering valve needs to be removed from the brake system.
With the combination valve (metering, pressure differential sensing and proportioning) installed below the MC, the other (stand-alone) metering valve isn't needed. --currently, you have TWO metering valves in series going to the front brakes. The stand-alone metering valve needs to be removed from the brake system.
Thanks Steve. I was hoping I could use it like a "T" fitting but I'll bite the bullet and make new lines.
Ron
The purpose of the metering (hold-off) valve is to momentarily delay pressure going to the front discs, in order for the rear drum wheel cylinder pistons to start expanding and begin moving the rear brake shoes towards the inner friction surface of the drums. Discs react instantly to the application of the brake pedal, drums do not. The delay in pressure to the front discs is to time the brakes so that they all start applying at about the same time.
The purpose of the metering (hold-off) valve is to momentarily delay pressure going to the front discs, in order for the rear drum wheel cylinder pistons to start expanding and begin moving the rear brake shoes towards the inner friction surface of the drums. Discs react instantly to the application of the brake pedal, drums do not. The delay in pressure to the front discs is to time the brakes so that they all start applying at about the same time.
Steve, Problem solved! Removed the metering valve and ran new lines from the proportioning valve, bleed the brakes and BOTH wheels turn now and stop the truck.
I would like to thank everyone that replied to my post.
Ron
Thanks for the reply Kultulz... Yes, I upgraded the front brakes to disc 16 years ago and the doner truck was a 1979 f150 2wd not 4wd.
The truck has not been on the road all these years and now I can't remember half the things I did back then.
Yeah, ultraranger has you covered. With the addition of the COMBINATION VALVE you recently installed, you now have two metering valves. What you need at the lower valve now installed is a distribution block, in this case just a Y to supply both front calipers from the one pressure line from the present COMBINATION VALVE.
I don't have my light truck info anymore and can't provide you with an ENGINEERING ILL showing the original install and PN.
BTW- Here is a photo of how the Y METERING VALVE (FREE-STANDING) was plumbed in the early seventies. Don't can that valve, someone will most likely need it one day.
See the two F's? Those are intended for the caliper supply lines.
Yeah, ultraranger has you covered. With the addition of the COMBINATION VALVE you recently installed, you now have two metering valves. What you need at the lower valve now installed is a distribution block, in this case just a Y to supply both front calipers from the one pressure line from the present COMBINATION VALVE.
I don't have my light truck info anymore and can't provide you with an ENGINEERING ILL showing the original install and PN.
BTW- Here is a photo of how the Y METERING VALVE (FREE-STANDING) was plumbed in the early seventies. Don't can that valve, someone will most likely need it one day.
See the two F's? Those are intended for the caliper supply lines.
Thanks KULTULZ, that's the same valve I have but I have a feeling my big mistake was I ran 1 "F" to the right brake and other "F" to the proportioning valve and the last one to the left brake. The left is the one that would lock up after bleeding the brakes and I would have to release some fluid from the caliper to get to spin freely. Totally didn't know what I was doing 16 years ago.
Anyway it's working now and I thank you for your input.
Ron
Steve, Problem solved! Removed the metering valve and ran new lines from the proportioning valve, bleed the brakes and BOTH wheels turn now and stop the truck.
I would like to thank everyone that replied to my post.
Ron
Glad to hear the brakes are functioning normally again and that the problem is resolved now.
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