i have no dash lights replaced the headlight switch and the fuse checks out good i have a power probe and when i powered up the fuse terminal the dash lights light up any help would be great thank you

 

Im going through the same problem. Ive been told that the whole light/headlight switch needs to be replaced. I also didnt realize that these trucks could dim their dash lights by turning the **** counter clockwise or vise versa..but sadly..this did not fix anything. So a new switch it is.

 

You dim the dash (instrument cluster) lights by turning the headlamp switch **** to the right. Turning the **** to the left turns on the dome lamp.

D3ZZ-11654-A (replaced C5DZ-11654-A; C5TZ-11654-A, B & C) .. Headlamp Switch Kit (Motorcraft SW-1245).

Original 1965/72 F100/350 switch marked: C5TB-11652-A or D2TB-11652-AA.

Applications: 1965/72 F100/350 / 1966/76 Bronco // 1965 Mustang from 8/17/64 to 11/16/64 / 1966 Mustang / 1970/72 Maverick/Comet / 1971/72 Mustang.

 

If you look closely at the front end of the headlight switch(nearest the dash), you'll see a round, wire wound resistor with a wiper arm attached. This dims the dash lights. Very typical to wear out, get crusty and fail to work(properly or at all).

 

It's made of a composition material, that...is in-famous for cracking apart.

 

Yes, rheostat is what I needed to call it, but in technical terms it's a variable resistor. The bakeolite material from back in the day was very time sensitive and cracks with age. Then you include any carbon arcing from using it, the conductivity goes away and the dash lights fail to come on.

My '69 F100 is in dire need of a new headlight switch. I always have to "giggle" the **** to find the one spot that makes the dash lights work. I've had the truck 23 yrs.....I'll get around to it someday LOL!!

 

hi guys thanks for all the advice i still dont have dash lights

i replaced the headlight switch already and the fuse is good and when i power

up the fuse panel for the dash lights the lights light up any help would be great

thank you

 

Sounds like someone got some wires crossed up if they work without the headlights coming on(or using the headlight switch).

If you are applying power to the fuse at the panel, that is before the headlight switch. So it's bypassing it somehow.

 

I don't have dash lights.

Is the dash light bulb(s) accessible from under the dash or does one have to get to it by taking the whole panel off?

Figured I'd try to check this first (well, actually, changing all the fuses was first) and I'll try the other suggestion of checking that switch too. Other than that, I'm assuming the bulb might be burnt out.

 

Yep..just pop the dash out and unscrew some stuff. The back will pop off giving u access to the lightbulbs

 

Ditto on my truck lol. One of these days heh heh heh.

Yet now seeing this thread, and having had issues with a wiper motor I replaced lately, I see the same issue being found - old wiring lol.

I will change switch when I change my rusty cab one of these days ( my 71 350 cab has a switch lol)

Found you can rewire these trucks one wire at a time. I'm opting for new wiring harness complete when I do my swap. Cheap option too!

Good thread, got me thinking again lol

 

I just bought a 1969 f250 2wd. I can't find the dash lights anywhere in not sure if they were ripped out by the previous owner or what can someone please help me to figure out how I can have dash light for night driving

 

Lower pic shows the backside of the instrument cluster. The bulbs are 13466.

 

Rotate the headlight ****. If you go from one extreme to the other without getting any dash illumination, you've likely got a bad headlight switch.

There's a 'secret' to removing the switch. When you need to remove the **** from the switch housing, depress the little spring-loaded button that's on top of the switch housing. It's inside, you'll have to reach up under the dash to find it.

Otherwise, it's SOP; disconnect the battery, loosen the bezel, disconnect the connector etc.

Last time I had to change out the light switch, it came with a bracket that wasn't mounted to the switch housing. I glued the bracket in place with some JB Weld.

 

Thipdar great tip on the JB Weld for that bracket. It is definitely a great trick and just used the same on mine. Otherwise you need 4 hands and a set of mirrors I swear! Especially on mine as the AC unit goes under the column and has a vent right under that switch. A MAJOR PITA even with that bracket attached for mine!