When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So first start if the morning I turnkey on 20-30 secs even though it's 60-70° cranks over fine but sputters for a second or two and is fine occasionally stalls but starts right back up. Will idle fine runs fine other than some lack of power on take off thinking that's turbo problem. I upgraded to blue spring and banjo bolts. Replaced intercooler tubes and hoses. Still no change. But now I noticed a whistle coming from the fuel filter housing under the hood. Idk if it has been doing this the whole time cause I usually have radio on and the vacuum pump is running. Checked the fuel bowl before starting and was full. Soaked housing in soapy water didn't see anything. Any help is greatly appreciated thanks
Yeah the only thing that is suspect is vgt 85% at start up but once you tap the throttle it moves and doesn't go back to 85 also had a code for crank sensor po336 so I replaced that also and cleaned out the ebp sensor and tube with no change also want to make clear it only does it in the morning on first start is fine the rest of the day
Ok just did first start up and vgt wasn't on 85 at first but is now still haven't touched throttle and checked codes again p2290? Icp to started around 1100 then was 860 now 760 map 14 ipr26 icp to low under 700 while I'm hear putting up info for other gauges 650 guess I will watch it and see what happens leveled out around 580
Idk maybe, it did line out around 580 and pressure will be higher when cold and as oil warms up. pressure will drop and when you push the throttle it goes up. Leaning towards fuel leak but I can't find one, no puddles or anything wet. Could something in fuel tank cause this? Have full tank and it doesn't matter full or quarter still the same. I can' find anything to make it better or worse to give me a direction to go. I know it's not a 6.4 but I'm going to check oil I got nothing else at this point
Nummy, are you familiar with how these injectors work? Injector pressure icp is not the fuel pressure. It is the oil pressure that powers the plunger to inject the fuel. Without at least 500psi the injectors won’t work. Need much more when running under load. Otherwise they will not run properly.
The fuel pressure simply fills the injectors. But if that drops too low you can get injector damage because the injectors slam on a partial fill.
What I was trying to say is, as oil warms up the pressure will come down cause it has less resistance. When I give it throttle it goes up. What's a normal number for icp at idle on warm engine
The pressure is controlled, the PCM adjusts the IPR duty cycle to maintain desired pressure as the oil heats up. It does vary somewhat from cold to hot.
Cold idle
ICP: 790 - 805
IPR: 26 - 27%
Hot idle:
ICP: 570 - 590
IPR: 22.2%
Cruise:
ICP: around 1000
IPR: 30-35%
Compare ICP desired to ICP actual. Also, watch the IPR commended valve operation (IPR duty cycle) along with the pressure.
To check the fuel, if thats what you want to do, pull the cap off of the secondary fuel filter bowl. Remove the fuel from the filter bowl, if it doesn't drain out. Then have someone turn the key to the KOEO position. Watch for bubbles as the bowl fills. Make sure the helper is ready to quickly turn the key off.
Also - get a fuel pressure gauge. It should NEVER drop below 45 psig.
Cool thanks guys. Guess if I see bubbles then I'm sucking air. It would have to a small leak cause I can let it sit like 8 hours and will start fine but I will definitely be checking that out
Ok, so best I can figure out is I have a sticktion problem. It's not smoking when running. So I've found where people have taken the spool valves out of the injectors sanded them down with 600 or higher grit sandpaper and have fixed the problem. Which leads me to, Can this be done without pulling out the injectors? Cause as far as I know they aren't leaking so I don't want to create a problem while trying to fix one. I was going to order new stand pipes and dummy plugs and fill heads with rags so I don't lose pin, nut, bolt or washers in engine. Going to pull wheel wells cause I have to fix my leaking exhaust manifolds. Just turned 106k. Thank You everyone for your advice and help
Ok, so best I can figure out is I have a sticktion problem. It's not smoking when running. So I've found where people have taken the spool valves out of the injectors sanded them down with 600 or higher grit sandpaper and have fixed the problem. Which leads me to, Can this be done without pulling out the injectors? Cause as far as I know they aren't leaking so I don't want to create a problem while trying to fix one. I was going to order new stand pipes and dummy plugs and fill heads with rags so I don't lose pin, nut, bolt or washers in engine. Going to pull wheel wells cause I have to fix my leaking exhaust manifolds. Just turned 106k. Thank You everyone for your advice and help
I wouldn’t do the spool valves on the truck. Take them out and do them on a bench. I have removed and cleaned the spool valves and gotten lucky I didn’t cause more problems but I did have to go back in and replace one injector after a few thousand miles to replace one I didn’t get just right. This job is not an easy one and can cause lots of problems when done incorrectly so be prepared for the fallout if you mess up. Seen it time and time again.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.