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To start, I decided to replace my stock steering box with 275k on it due to the slop and dead-spot that it had developed. It had no issues turning my 38s on dry pavement at idle. So today I installed a brand new Blue Top steering box in my 2002 7.3. The mechanical portion of the install went smoothly with no problems. Unfortunately when it came time to flush, bleed, and fill the system I started having issues.
First, the instructions aren't explicitly clear which line is to be disconnected in order to purge the old fluid. They call it the "power steering pump return line", which according to the pictures I've found there is more than one. I called Ryan at Blue Top and he was helpful on the phone in letting me know that the intended line to be removed is the larger of the two threaded fittings on the top of the steering box. Line #7 in this pic:
After flushing the reservoir and then flushing the return line I decided to flush the entire system with 3 quarts of Mercon V using the YouTube tutorial. Now it was time to bleed the air from the system. I did exactly as the instructions said and jacked up the front of the truck, cycled the steering lock-to-lock slowly (did this countless times), while continuing to top off the reservoir.
With the front end in the air the steering was smooth and effortless (as it should be with no resistance). However, upon lowering the tires back to the pavement I can only get from center to full left or full right (half of a lock?) and then there's no more power steering. I jacked the truck back up and continued going lock-to-lock for about 30 minutes with no change in fluid level, no foaming, and no bubbles. No change in the issue.
At this point I tried calling Ryan again but it's after business hours. I did shoot him an email with this same writeup.
Can anybody help me get my steering back to where it needs to be? At least with the stock box I could navigate through a parking lot. The truck is undrivable the way it is currently acting.
I have done the similar procedure with numbe 2 unhooked at the highest point in the system which a line on the output to drain. That should get you drivable but these trucks really need a vacuum bleed at the powersteering pump and sometimes several times to get the right result.
I have done the similar procedure with numbe 2 unhooked at the highest point in the system which a line on the output to drain. That should get you drivable but these trucks really need a vacuum bleed at the powersteering pump and sometimes several times to get the right result.
When I performed the 3 quart flush of the system I unhooked the number 2 line that you're talking about. Do you have a procedure handy that lays out the vacuum bleed? I have a MityVac kit that should be able to be used.
I found this procedure that I think I'll try this afternoon.
NOTICE: If the air is not purged from the power steering system correctly, premature power steering pump failure can result. The condition can occur on pre-delivery vehicles with evidence of aerated fluid or on vehicles that have had steering component repairs.
1. NOTE: A whine heard from the power steering pump can be caused by air in the system. The power steering purge procedure must be carried out prior to any component repair for which power steering noise complaints are accompanied by evidence of aerated fluid. Remove the power steering pump reservoir cap. Check the fluid. 2. Raise the front wheels off the floor. Refer to the appropriate section in Group 100 for the procedure.
3. Tightly insert the stopper of the vacuum pump into the reservoir.
4. Start the engine.
5. Install the vacuum pump, apply vacuum and maintain the maximum vacuum of 68-85 kPa (20-25 in-Hg).
6. If equipped with Hydro-Boost®, apply the brake pedal twice.
7. NOTICE: Do not hold the steering wheel against the stops for more than 3 to 5 seconds at a time. Damage to the power steering pump can occur. Cycle the steering wheel fully from stop-to-stop 10 times.
8. Stop the engine.
9. Release the vacuum and remove the vacuum pump.
10. NOTICE: Do not overfill the reservoir. Fill the reservoir. • Use approved transmission fluid.
11. Start the engine.
12. Install the vacuum pump. Apply and maintain the maximum vacuum of 68-85 kPa (20-25 in-Hg).
13. NOTICE: Do not hold the steering wheel against the stops for more than 3 to 5 seconds at a time. Damage to the power steering pump can occur. Cycle the steering wheel fully from stop-to-stop 10 times.
14. Stop the engine, release the vacuum and remove the vacuum pump.
15. NOTICE: Do not overfill the reservoir. Fill the reservoir as needed and install the reservoir cap.
16. Visually inspect the power steering system for leaks.
17. NOTICE: Do not overfill the reservoir. Fill the reservoir as needed and visually inspect the power steering system for leaks.
18. Install the reservoir cap.
I'm actually surprised your stock system would turn 37's on dry pavement...was this with the brakes applied, sitting still or rolling? Because we have a 2000 7.3 and my 04 5.4 powered f350's and neither of them will turn the tires sitti g still or holding the brakes and we only have 33's
That's odd seeming to me Superdutyscaler as my 99f550 7.3 4x4 with 19.5 big *** toyos will turn the wheels no problem and my '03 5.4 with metric sized 33"s will turn the wheels no problem too. Both at a standstill. The 550 is a plow truck too and it'll do it with a 9.5 western v on the front no problemo.
