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put a new head unit in the 2014 F250XLT for large rear view camera instead of the small one in the mirror.
everything worked fine. 3 hours later i went out to finish the install. rolled the windows down, did sme probing looking for the proper wires to tap into for the rear camera,but decided to not cut or hook up the camera. then put the dash back together.
now the windows will not roll up, rear view camera does not work, and the power mirror extenders do not work either.
all fuses in both in cab and under hood boxes test good with test light.
any ideas what i screwed up? the windows are down, and it is supposed to rain tonight.
You would not believe how complex these newer trucks are. I would go back and and do over exactly what you did, first looking for any wiring plugs that could have been unplugged or a pinched wire. If that doesn't help, put the old stuff back in place.
The stuff you are complaining about is controlled by the body control module behind the pass side kick panel. It looks like a fuse box but it is that, and a communication board on the network at the same time.
the thing is, i never unplugged anything. all i did was probe with a test light looking for the power wire that turned the rear camera monitor in the rear view mirror on.in the harness that runs up the passenger side of the windshield, i found power on the green blue wire (i think it was that color) for a few seconds, then the monitor went out. at that point i stopped and went to shut the windows,, and found the windows, and tow mirror extender did not work after testing all fuses.
just a thought Dave.....
what do you think about pulling the door panels and applying 12 volts to the window motors to close the windows like we used to do on the old trucks when the switch went bad?
You could do that, and I bet they would work. They have all these controls and fluff everywhere, but when you get down to it, there is still a regular motor doing the work to open and shut the window.
Have you ever heard of this software? I have never tried it, but it looks like it might be useful and not that expensive. The software is free, you just need to buy a adapter cable. https://forscan.org/home.html
i have tried it, and found it to be harder to use than a scanner on a carburated engine. and the people on the forscan forum and about as useless as the software too. ask a question an get told to "figure it out, it ain't that hard"
i tried pulling the panels off to access the motor, but you can not get to it with the window down and i do not want to just start sending power through the wires off the switches without having a wire color diagram. there are 6 wires going to the passenger side switch, and 10 or 12 to the driver side switch.
guess i am going to be wrapping the doors in plastic and taking it to one of the local electrical gurus to hope he can figure it out without going to the dealer.
i saw blue into the master window switch was power in. so i put 12 bolts to the blue wire in the switch plug and closed both windows.
i also noticed all the functions i lost seem to come from terminal 5 of the accessory delay relay. so hopefully that relay is the only thing bad and i will not have to replace the $900 BCM
final outcome of this nightmare:
apparently the company i got the truck from removed a phone or radio and did not disable the power wire. they instead tucked it up under the dash and it worked it's way loose and shorted out on a low power source burning out the computer board behind the in cab fuse box.
took an electrical specialty shop 10 days to pinpoint the problem, replace the fusebox and computer board, reprogram the computer, and remove the offending wire so it does not happen again.
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