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Vacuum Line Routing Help

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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 02:11 PM
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Vacuum Line Routing Help


Hi all,
I just picked up a 2000 Excursion V10. I'm sorting through some of the issues. Two main issues I'm working on are 4x4 not engaging and blower motor not coming on. I've done a ton of reading. I realize both are vacuum controlled but I believe my issues are seperate causes.

First, the 4x4. After a bunch of investigation I found the passenger hub vacuum line not hooked up to anything. I also can not find an unattached vacuum line to plug it into. I see the vacuum line runs down from the switch valve behind the battery. Then at the frame there is a tee. One line runs to the drivers side hub and there other comes back up and attaches to a red line running to the top of the motor. My hunch is that there is something hooked up incorrectly there but I cant find a diagram anywhere. See the picture. I'm wondering if the line to the top of the motor should be hooked up somewhere else and that line after the tee should be hooked to the passenger hub vacuum line?

I'm not sure if my motor at the transfer case is working but figured I'd fix this vacuum issue first and go from there. When I swith it to 4hi or 4lo absolutely nothing happens. No lights, no noises. I checks the relays and swapped some around. I found voltage at some of the pins under the relays. I did all this before I found the disconnected vacuum line at the hub.

The front blower will work occasionally. New blower installed by PO. I dont think air is coming out of the defrost (vac issue) but I need to double check. When I put a hand vacuum pump on the HVAC it has vacuum so I think it's an electrical issue. Leaning towards blower motor resistor.

Thanks for the help!
Ryan
 
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 07:02 PM
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I have done more reading and diagnostics. The above image shows one line from what I assume is the intake creating vacuum. I have 2? One that runs to the reservoir and the other to the 4x4 system. This must be plumbed incorrectly as that supplies vacuum to the hub (only 1 currently connected) at all times. I can attach the tee to the other passenger hub but what do I do with the other red line that is currently attached to the tee coming off the PVH?

Also, did some diagnostics on the blower. When the blower is not working, the plug at the blower receives zero voltage in all 4 blower positions. So there is an electrical issue somewhere.

I took out some aftermarket alarm system th as t wasnt functioning properly as well. Most lines were just tapped, not spliced so I simply unplugged the wires from the taps. The only line that was cur was the starter. I spliced it back together.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 08:53 PM
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Partial good news. I was right in that there was more than one thing going on with my 4x4 system. I crawled back under after reading more and realizing the 2 pin plug is NOT the actuator motor. The actuator motor is on top and has a 6 pin plug. Well the 6 pin plug wasn't securely attached. The trans was just rebuilt under the POs ownership a few hundred miles ago and I'm guessing the guys putting the trans in didn't secure the plug. Well the good news is the transfer case is activating and lights in the dash are coming on (improvement from before) but of course the hubs aren't locking. I need to route the vacuum system correctly for that.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 08:57 PM
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Also, I found this diagram showing the routing of the vacuum system but I have 2 red lines coming from the motor. One goes to the reservoir as shown but the other attaches to the tee after the PVH valve. Perhaps a PO tried to get vacuum to the hubs after a failed PVH? Either way I need to plumb it correctly. Could anyone with a V10 snap a pic of their routing for me?

Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 10:53 PM
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Saw your post today but was busy chasing DTC daemons of my own...

first off, welcome to FTE excursion forum, and sorry to leave you hanging all day looking for answers.

I ditched my vacuum hubs years ago so this is from memory and I went and looked at my old vacuum line that I removed.

the line that is hooked up to your driver side hub, Follow it from the hub to where it plugs in at the vacuum port. Someplace along that route ( probably hidden behind something so remove the line from if nessasary.) is the T that goes to the other hub.

it looks like this.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 11:11 PM
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If you have a truck shop or hydraulic shop nearby they usually have airline stuff that you can make your own ( the connectors are the hard part to get to seal for long )
or just buy a new one from ford.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...sy-f81z3c124aa
 
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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 12:36 AM
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Thanks! I'm quite familiar with vacuum lines. Cut my teeth wrenching on old Mercedes diesels. Just about everything was vacuum controlled on those.

So I can change the lines to have it just to the hubs off the PVH but that means I need to unhook it from the red line coming from the motor. My real question now is how is everything else in the vacuum system hooked up? What should I do with that red line from the motor (note I have two lines coming from there. Other goes to the resevoir.)

And I'm in no rush. Just need it all ready by the middle of September for a hunting trip.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 05:00 PM
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Went to the parts yard today to look at some Excursions and pull a few small things and see if I could figure out the vacuum routing. It appears the 2nd red vacuum line from the intake attaches to this piece in the picture. Yellow arrow shows where it attaches. I got home and went to switch the lines around and surprise... there is no nipple to attach it to. So I suppose a PO broke it off, saw a line dangling and couldn't figure out where to attach it.

Can anyone tell me what this part in the picture is that the red vac hose attaches to? I'll prob head back to the yard tomorrow to pull a valve cover (a PO tried to glue the pipe nipple on the valve cover that goes to the intake) and I'll just pull whatever that part is as well.

I also pulled a selector switch for the blower and no change. Doesnt rule it out but chances of both being bad are slim. Going to get a new resistor next.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 05:48 PM
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Just found it. Vapor Canister Purge Valve/Solenoid. Must be emission related? You can clearly see where the vacuum line attaches. I'm guessing this part doesnt typically go bad. Probably take a gamble at the parts yard on a used one and get the vacuum lines hooked up correctly tomorrow.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 06:11 PM
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It can go bad but rarely. It is just a solenoid activated valve that is normally closed and opens when you start the engine. the valve allows the vapors from the carbon canister to be sucked into the intake, thereby clearing the charcoal canister. The canister captures the vapors from the gas tank. The shraeder valve under the cap is a test point to put vacuum on for diagnostics.
There is another valve that is normally open that vents the charcoal canister to the atmosphere. It closes when the purge valve opens and prevents outside air from being sucked into the intake, thereby forcing it to come from the canister. The canister vent valve is right on the back of the charcoal canister.

The Ford emissions facts summary book details the routing of the emissions system hoses and the operation of the emissions system
 
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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 06:49 PM
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Thanks for the help. Based on that I'll definitely pull one at the yard and save myself $50-60.

I remember this part in a YouTube video I watched but I cant recall what it is? Shouldn't it be attached to something? It's just sitting loose. It has some small coolant hoses attached to it (I assume to heat it up quicker.) The coolant hoses in this area look like they're going to leak any second. I'll need to replace them as well.

Ah, the joys of correcting years of POs negligence! Maybe I should start a new thread as I'm veering off the original topic??
 
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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 08:22 PM
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Found it. PCV valve. it sits in valve cover grommet. Will order a new one as the hoses are deteriorated.

 
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 03:43 AM
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Make sure you order the correct PCV valve and hoses for your year Excursion. And even then due to running changes in production it could be different than what the parts houses say. Ollder PCV valves can be just push in on a grommet while later ones are usually a twist bayonet insertion. Eyeball the parts carefully when you buy them to match the connection points on your engine. It sucks that you don't have the original to just be able to compare, but you gotta do what ya gotta do.
Let me know if you need help finding parts, I will do what I can to help.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 04:02 AM
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Oh, looky what I found for you!!!

Almost as good as a diagram!!! It even gives the part number!!!

 
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 09:14 AM
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Thanks again for the help. Yep, that's the video I watched. Seems pretty straightforward. If I am correct, the part number I need is YC3Z-6C324-BA

Mine seems to be just a push in one.
 
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