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I am shocked - SHOCKED! - to hear that their cover is better than the others. Note the lack of empirical data... how about seeing the temperature differences, cutaways of each name brand cover showing the improvements, etc. Admittedly, it has been a while since I watched the earlier video, but something showing nice easy to understand numbers works better for me than "Ours came out best - trust me." Like when I compare prices and see most under $200 and theirs almost $400... numbers I can understand.
I'm still curious why the stock cover isn't sufficient. Highly experienced engineers are still using steel covers for EVERY make of truck, even today. IMO, aftermarket covers are a huge waste of money. I can buy a lot of beer and ammo for the cost of even the cheapest aftermarket cover.
They are plenty sufficient. Can't tell you how many people I know with diesel powered duallies that consistently tow ABOVE their trucks rating and even some that drag race their 3/4 ton's. Only one of them has an aftermarket diff cover. One guy has an '07 Ram 1-ton diesel that regularly tows his 30 something foot long 5th wheel, with his '74 Bronco AND his 800 lb atv on a car trailer behind that. It's a literal train. He has over 250k hard mountainous miles and beats on that thing regularly. He changed his rear diff fluid for the first time at 180k miles and everything looked brand new inside.
Does it matter if a buick sky lark bites it cracks the aluminum isn't noticed till 300 miles limping home with dry gears.
Ruffstuff covers on all my stuff or stock. I can trail fix metal with a sledge hammer if need be. Not so fixable aluminum has no place being placed close to dangerous things near the ground
Does it matter if a buick sky lark bites it cracks the aluminum isn't noticed till 300 miles limping home with dry gears.
Ruffstuff covers on all my stuff or stock. I can trail fix metal with a sledge hammer if need be. Not so fixable aluminum has no place being placed close to dangerous things near the ground
I have their covers on my D60 front and Sterling rear on my 68. You have to hit something hard to mess them up.
I worry more about dragging the rear cover over rocks in offroad application.
Here's the rear cover on my rear jeep axle. This cover hasn't seen many trails miles as jeeps always in my shop.
Cover has a 1/2" ring the rest is 3/8" beeeeeeef The thin stamped covers tend bend and pull off the face causeing leaks
Yes I had a impact with a build skylark. It drive under the rear of my cummins out of the blue.
As interesting as it was to watch all the testing, these videos are just a sales pitch. Nothing more. Personally, I have always run factory covers with zero issues. I just don't see the sense in wasting good money on a cover made of weaker material.
I'm still curious why the stock cover isn't sufficient. Highly experienced engineers are still using steel covers for EVERY make of truck, even today. IMO, aftermarket covers are a huge waste of money. I can buy a lot of beer and ammo for the cost of even the cheapest aftermarket cover.
I would say they are a positive to have but are never going to be needed unless you are towing all the time and working on the very brink of what the axle can handle. A lot more axles are destroyed from not having fluid in them or being filled with water than overheated by being over worked.
That price seems a little high unless it includes the factory bolts. I bought one a few years back off of Amazon for about $65. The bolts from Ford were over $50.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
