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I measured 1 inch between my radiator and condenser and also have a transmission cooler in front of that. On any modern day car/truck the condenser covers the rad...
Holes in the fan shroud keep air from getting trapped in the shroud at highway speeds. I have factory fan setups has flaps that get pushed open at highway speed and then close at slower speeds. I dont even run full shrouds and have no issues with cooling. I run 180 thermostats, fan turns on at 190, and off at 175..so they dont turn off once they are on and temps are stable at 180-190 depending on the car. Fluctuating temps to me mean air in the system.
That is pretty much the same location as OEMs use. The heat exchange from A/C condenser is significantly less than the radiator. You should not have a problem with that good, clean installation.
I know that you are sensitive based on your problems with the revere-vane water pump but really this should be OK. The real test is if your radiator boils over. I assume that you have a coolant recovery systeM?
You said it heats up fast, well it should. With an electric fan with a thermostat there should be really no cooling until the fan comes on or driving it and with only 30 miles it does not sound like your driving it much. Obviously a fresh engine will produce more heat until all internal surfaces mate in. Personally I prefer an engine that gets to temperature quickly and stabilizes where it should. It sounds to me that is what you are describing; gets to temperature, fan comes on, drops temperature, fan goes off, climbs back up, fan on again, all this with a decent break in cycles. I don't see an issue here.
Working on and around 4,000 to 16,000 HP engines, I became a firm believer in thermal equilibrium before demanding power. Y'all know that heat expands, and that different metals have different expansion coefficients, and design operating tolerances haven't been reached until expansion ceases. So then you can see where demanding power from a partially warm engine can cause problems. You will never get an engine to "warm up fast" and live very long. But if you're only concerned with getting down the 1320 then it's a moot point.
I got it all repaired correct was at a all week Street Rod show last week, truck performed very well and ran perfect and got lots of exposure and compliments . Thanks
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