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Assistance needed from the E4OD Gurus

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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 08:01 PM
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Centurion F350's Avatar
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Assistance needed from the E4OD Gurus

Long story short, I've lost overdrive....OD light will start flashing, when scanned it shows code 11 (all clear, no problems) and code 62 (slippage). Here are the build/repair details from the previous owner, (gearhead, built race cars, rebuilt many GM 350/400 trans):

April 2011 PO did the following work at 110k miles when a slipping stock torque converter led to trans failure:
Upgraded E4OD internals to heavy duty 95+ parts including,
B36022E/B73320 Brake Band
A36582DK/k73939DN Heavy Duty Front Planetary 6Gr Hub Kit
A36584EK Rear Planetary Kit
36263/36467 Parking Washer
36100/B73604 64 Tooth Overdrive Friction Disc
D36140B/73714G Overdrive Pressure Plate
36120/73605 Steel Overdrive Plate
D36420B/31A-110A Solenoid Pack Assembly 95- up
A36783/96-330 Center Support Bolt
A36783A/96-330 Intermediate Clutch Bolt
36309E/13832 Pump Bolt Gasket
M465TJ Transjel (red)
1-9728 ATP Trans Filter Kit
Rebuilt Triple Clutch Disc Torque Converter w/ Hardened Case and 500 RPM Stall
CX1448 FIPL Sensor
F0TP-7F293-AA MLPS/NSS
E5TZ-17B384A Tachometer Sensor
F85Z-2L373-AC ABS/Speed Sensor

I bought the truck with 138k miles and had no issues up to say 144k miles when I got a couple code 23, which indicates FIPL/TPS issue or failure to hold throttle wide open while scanning. Since getting the truck it always shifted on time and very firm. Shortly after, it started hunting for overdrive and when I checked the FIPL voltage both the idle and WOT settings were very low. The PO had told me he'd set it low intentionally so it would get into higher gear faster and be easier on fuel. I replaced the FIPL (CX1448) (plug cleaned and packed with dielectric grease)and set my range the closest it would get 1.27DCV at idle and 4.33DCV WOT....truck shifts well 1-3 but hunts for overdrive. Next I updated to the new style MLPS and plug (SW5978) (plug packed w/ dielectric grease), again, truck shifts well 1-3 but still no overdrive. Lastly, I pulled, cleaned and packed the plugs with dielectric grease for the solenoid shift pack, speed sensor and tachometer sensor....still no overdrive. I can turn overdrive off and it shifts fine, no slippage or codes, as soon as I try to use OD it codes. The PO rebuilt the trans to be heavy duty and the truck hasn't done any hauling or piled up a lot of highway miles so I fail to see how OD could actually be going out or the heavy duty torque converter failing already...the rebuild only has 34k miles on it. The fluid's still right on level, red and doesn't smell burnt, I also see no metal particulate on the dipstick. There's no unusual noises, shuttering or feeling of slippage. Shift RPM range as follows when taking off at a good clip:
Cold 2nd 2500rpm, 3rd 2500rpm
Warm 2nd 3200rpm, 3rd 3200rpm

I'm hoping this is something simple I'm overlooking but I've researched the hell out of it and I'll be damned if I can figure out what it is. Both the tach and speedo function properly and in unison with no flutter or fluctuation between them. I've done my own repairs ever since I started driving and owning a lot of Jeeps & GMs over the years there's been quite a bit of wrenching, I haven't ran into too many things I couldn't sort out but this electronic trans and turbo IDI diesel are new animals to me......

Lay into me guys....what'd I miss??? Thanks in advance!


 
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 09:26 PM
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From: SE Florida
Originally Posted by Centurion F350
The PO rebuilt the trans to be heavy duty and the truck hasn't done any hauling or piled up a lot of highway miles so I fail to see how OD could actually be going out or the heavy duty torque converter failing already...the rebuild only has 34k miles on it.
Anything built by man is imperfect. Imperfect things can fail. Something failed here. Assuming it is not going into overdrive and not that the torque converter isn't locking, the most likely scenario is a leak in the overdrive clutch circuit. At low miles like this it often is a damaged seal in the clutch itself. That's my guess.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 06:28 AM
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I'm assuming removal and total tear down then? Any other possibilities or things I can check prior to diving into it? The more I read about these E4OD the less enthusiastic I am about going through the effort and cost of putting another back in it, the whole purpose of buying the IDI was to stay away from anything electronic and have pure simplicity and reliability.....still wound up in a rats nest! I'd planned on regearing as I wont ever haul anything that requires 4.10s....I suppose I could go 3.55 with a C6 or ________??
 
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 09:10 AM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Well first off,this part was wrong for any IDI truck:
D36420B/31A-110A Solenoid Pack Assembly 95- up
You need the 89-94 pack.I can't explain why it ever worked though,only that it shouldn't never have lol.You can use a 95-97 E4OD and even a 4R100 trans if you want but the 89-94 pack is one of the older parts that must be used.


Next,here is the list of reasons why you might not get a shift into OD:

 
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 01:40 PM
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Good catch Ford, checked w/ the PO and they did wind up exchanging the correct shift solenoid w/ him due to resistors being in different locations....it DOES in fact have the 89-94 pack in it.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 12:24 PM
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What happens when only the OD push button is defect?
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mowagman
What happens when only the OD push button is defect?
It depends how it fails. If it is always shorted to ground, it will turn off overdrive when the truck is turned on. If it fails open you won't be able to turn off overdrive.

It's rare for the push button to fail. It's common for the wiring to the push button to fail.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 01:44 PM
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So can a failure in the wires lead to Centurionś problems?
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 03:47 PM
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From: SE Florida
No, it could not. If it was the OD OFF button it wouldn't go into overdrive, but it also would not set the slippage code. That code can only set in overdrive. So its shifting to overdrive, but can't maintain it. Something internal to the transmission has failed.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2018 | 08:45 AM
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Ah okay, thanks
 
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 08:53 AM
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On the fence......tear in and repair the upgraded E4OD or go with a 4R100, they're essentially the same animal since the E4OD has had everything upgraded aren't they?


Also, if I were to go into the E4OD for repair, is there anything on the build specs that's missing or should be upgraded/changed?


My biggest dilemma is putting more into the truck than it's worth, the PO did a lot of work to it a few years before I bought it and only racked up about 10k miles afterwards....my hesitance is the HD trans rebuild failing shortly after I got it has left a sour taste in my mouth. I received a pile of files, receipts, spare parts, information and continued support from the PO whenever I've checked back with him on what has/hasn't been done and questions regarding the trans build - honestly, the guy has been absolutely amazing and you can tell right off he's a gearhead through and through, I have zero reason to doubt the guy. In regards to what's already been done:
Trans Internals Upgraded to 4R100 (list in first post)
Reman 3 Clutch Torque Converter w/ Hardened Case and 500rpm Stall
New Upgraded Flywheel
New Injection Pump
New Lift Pump
New Oil Sending Unit
New Radiator, Cap, Hoses, Thermostat, Gasket
New Front Tires, Alignment, about ready for new rears
New Rear Aluminum Eagle Rims
New Oil Cooler, Seal, Gasket Set
New Starter
Both tanks dropped and cleaned
New Fuel Relay
Installed Boost Gauge
New Air Filter Monitor, Filter
Turbo has been rebuilt
New Glowplugs, O-Rings
New Batteries, Cables, Battery Blankets
New Block Heater
New Axle Seals, Wheel to Wheel
New Brakes Front & Rear
Zero Rust, Zeibart inside and out when new
Zero Dents

Downside:
All of the clearcoat's gone
Paint chips/rubs here and there
Small cracks starting in the rear fiberglass fenders
Cracks in the gel coat of most other fiberglass
Front seats are completely fubar
Needs windshield replaced
Due for new rear tires
Needs sending unit in rear tank
PO added keyless entry, it worked for him at some point but now has a gremlin in somewhere in the system
A/C must have a leak, it worked for the PO but only throws out heat now
Has chicken lights all the way around it, worked when I brought it home but has since developed an issue to where only 4 of the 5 cab lights work, chicken lights and lighted grab handles are dead
 
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 09:24 AM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
I wouldn't abandon the trans.Look at the list of possibilities.You could simply have a sticking valve and or broken/tangled springs in the valve body causing the issue.No need to drop the trans to inspect this.I would take it to a trans shop if your not up to it and just get it fixed since it's a nice reman.

You can't worry about these trucks values.There is basically no resale value to them.They're too old,too plentiful and too under powered for most to desire anymore.This makes them valuable to their owners only.If you worry about putting more into them than they're worth,then no one should ever buy one because usually,they require more in parts than you can buy them for.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 05:06 AM
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My hesitance isn't lack of confidence, I've worked on everything from small engines to heavy equipment and have always done all of my own repairs...ironically, an automatic transmission is the one common thing I've never had to tear into. With that being said I don't doubt I could carefully disassemble and reassemble one with the use of an accurate rebuild guide (working under the assumption something that's been worked on before may be assembled incorrectly) and the right parts...as with anything on the internet it's simply a matter of attaining the correct information, hence reaching out to the trans techs. The PO has proven to be a fantastic guy, gave me every record and spare part he had for the truck and has been very supportive and helpful when inquiring about what has and hasn't been done with the truck, well after the purchase.....seeing as he did his research, has lots of rebuild experience and something still went wrong, I do realize I'm far from infallible here. So...ask and learn, learn, learn!

As I understand it there's little that can be done through dropping the pan (with exception to the shift pack), disassembly is going to be a near must and in going through the build list I find nothing was done to upgrade/improve the pump, it only received new seals. That's where my contemplation kicks in, knowing something's jacked up and something wasn't upgraded nudges me towards tearing into it to inspect, repair and make every upgrade possible while it's apart so it's bullet proof, once and done. So far I've found one rebuild write-up that was geared specifically towards building up the E4OD.....I was hoping to get more feedback and find more info on builds to get a better feel on if it's something I can/want to handle or if it'd be better left to a professional. Leave no stone un-turned so to speak....

Heavy Duty build write-up:
Ford E4OD Overhaul for Heavy Duty Towing and Off-Road Use
 
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