Explorer master cylinder questions
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 292
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Explorer master cylinder questions
My stock nonvacuum master cylinder gave up the ghost last night. My local jy has a 95 explorer that did not have cruise control and has a proportioning valve. My question(s) are, do I need the explorer proportioning valve and what else in the braking system on my truck do I need to change, if anything? Thanks in advance for all your help.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,600
Likes: 1,174
From: San Jose, CA
Back to the top.
No idea on the Explorer as a donor. Is it the same piston size as your old one, and are you wanting that one because it comes with a booster?
I would not necessarily use the prop valve from a small SUV to try to make an old, full-size truck balance it's brakes properly. Might happen of course and I'm guessing others have tried lots of different things. I just happen to like the manually adjustable proportioning valves so I can find-tune my vehicles to the way I like them under all circumstances. If I wanted to drive my pickup full loaded with gear under the camper shell, it seems that the balancing/proportioning would be different from running around with an empty bed.
Why the Explorer by the way? That something others have done and I've just missed it? Any reason you don't want to just use a factory replacement for your particular setup? Is this a hydro-boost setup or something fancy like that?
Good luck.
Paul
No idea on the Explorer as a donor. Is it the same piston size as your old one, and are you wanting that one because it comes with a booster?
I would not necessarily use the prop valve from a small SUV to try to make an old, full-size truck balance it's brakes properly. Might happen of course and I'm guessing others have tried lots of different things. I just happen to like the manually adjustable proportioning valves so I can find-tune my vehicles to the way I like them under all circumstances. If I wanted to drive my pickup full loaded with gear under the camper shell, it seems that the balancing/proportioning would be different from running around with an empty bed.
Why the Explorer by the way? That something others have done and I've just missed it? Any reason you don't want to just use a factory replacement for your particular setup? Is this a hydro-boost setup or something fancy like that?
Good luck.
Paul
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 292
Likes: 6
From: Florida
I've seen others on here do it. The piston is the same size, bolt pattern is the same and the houseing is aluminum with a plastic reservoir so it won't rust and you don't have to open it to check fluid level.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 217
From: Northern VA
I've used a plastic-aluminum master cylinder from a 90's F-250 to replace the cast-iron type on my early 80's F-150. Use the existing proportioning valve and ditch the one on the MC, or at least hollow it out. Worked great for me and couldn't rust itself to death like the old one.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,600
Likes: 1,174
From: San Jose, CA
Cool. I like it.
I've always liked the look, the see-through aspect, and the lighter weight of the newer styles, but also had some trepidation of how the reservoir might fare in a small under-hood flash fire sometime. Not that you'd ever want that to happen anyway, but I always felt that you could survive a quick fire you put out, but if your master's reservoir melted, you'd be dead in the water even if the engine was still working.
Granted that's a long shot and one of those "how often is that really going to happen" scenarios. But they do happen sometimes, and I'm all about the what if's in life.
I've been wanting just one of the old-school full aluminum versions of our old style masters instead. Looks like the old GM/Bendix style, but in aluminum. CPP and MBM make them.
(hmm, as of today I can't put a picture where I want to inside the post. Could before, and after the forum change, but now it won't let me put it where I want)
Not as nice looking as the new plastic ones you're talking about, and you can't see the fluid level without popping the pesky top. I'm just a slow adopter I guess...
Paul
I've always liked the look, the see-through aspect, and the lighter weight of the newer styles, but also had some trepidation of how the reservoir might fare in a small under-hood flash fire sometime. Not that you'd ever want that to happen anyway, but I always felt that you could survive a quick fire you put out, but if your master's reservoir melted, you'd be dead in the water even if the engine was still working.
Granted that's a long shot and one of those "how often is that really going to happen" scenarios. But they do happen sometimes, and I'm all about the what if's in life.
I've been wanting just one of the old-school full aluminum versions of our old style masters instead. Looks like the old GM/Bendix style, but in aluminum. CPP and MBM make them.
(hmm, as of today I can't put a picture where I want to inside the post. Could before, and after the forum change, but now it won't let me put it where I want)
Not as nice looking as the new plastic ones you're talking about, and you can't see the fluid level without popping the pesky top. I'm just a slow adopter I guess...
Paul
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
My best guess would be that you need the correct fittings to match the new explorer master cylinder.
In terms of the proportioning valve, you should be able to run your stock Prop valve without issue. A lot of folks run a different proportioning valve when they get the chance because it helps clean up the engine bay quite a bit.
Myself, I'm running a Wilwood reducing prop valve so I could turn down the pressure to my rear brakes after swapping to disc brakes on the rear end.
If you're planning on running the stock set-up: discs (front) and drums (rear), then you'll have no issues with reusing your old proportioning valve.
Just make sure you bleed the system correctly when it comes time to do so. The stock prop valve can be finnicky to bleed and the plunger sometimes gets stuck in the "OPEN" position.
In terms of the proportioning valve, you should be able to run your stock Prop valve without issue. A lot of folks run a different proportioning valve when they get the chance because it helps clean up the engine bay quite a bit.
Myself, I'm running a Wilwood reducing prop valve so I could turn down the pressure to my rear brakes after swapping to disc brakes on the rear end.
If you're planning on running the stock set-up: discs (front) and drums (rear), then you'll have no issues with reusing your old proportioning valve.
Just make sure you bleed the system correctly when it comes time to do so. The stock prop valve can be finnicky to bleed and the plunger sometimes gets stuck in the "OPEN" position.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 991
Likes: 111
From: Dallas, OR
IIRC, the Explorer MC uses bubble flare fittings. Ultraranger would be your best bet with questions. I couldn't seem to find his original tutorial with a quick search during lunch break. PM him if he doesn't chime in here. He has done several of these swaps.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
The pictures confirm it.
Product Detail
IMHO, I don't see the point of bubble flares. Double flares worked just fine for dozens of years... and then suddenly everything switched to bubble flares. Seems like a cash grab if you ask me...
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 292
Likes: 6
From: Florida
After searching ultrarangers posts, I found the info needed. Thank you for the valuable info everybody. I'm heading to the jy tomorrow and will order the bubble flare fittings when I get home with the new-to-me MC. Slowly but surely Alberta is getting there.
SIDE NOTE: I plan on having Alberta at Gainesville raceway September 15th to give her a shake down race. If anybody wants to come out and race too or just hang out, I'd be glad to meet some of y'all.
SIDE NOTE: I plan on having Alberta at Gainesville raceway September 15th to give her a shake down race. If anybody wants to come out and race too or just hang out, I'd be glad to meet some of y'all.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 292
Likes: 6
From: Florida
I have a master cylinder from the jy. Now my concern is I pulled it off a booster and my truck does not have a booster. I didn't turn my stock booster in as a core bc I couldn't get the rod that attaches to the pedal out of the MC. Is it possible to remove that rod? It moves around like its attached inside the MC, but it doesn't unscrew and I couldn't see any kind of a clip/bolt to undo ... currently driving home from the jy, any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 292
Likes: 6
From: Florida
So I put a piece of round stock in the bolt hole of the rod and beat it with a hammer. The rod came out but it looks like there should be a grommet or something on the end to keep it in the MC. It is not there now and when the rod finally came out, it fell on the floor. So the missing "grommet" may be on the floor as well, but I don't know if it even exists or what it looks like so I gave up looking for it. Here are some pics of the aftermath.
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