Brake support key?
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Brake support key?
1982 F250 4x4, found I had a wicked rattle in the pass wheel vicinity, took wheel off, and the caliper fell off. Brake support key is missing now. Ordered what was supposed to be the correct one from Dorman and it's 3/8" wide on the inside of the slot, rather than 5/8" wide like it needs to be. Dunno if that one is for an F150 or what, but I'm having trouble finding the right one. Raybestos makes what they say is the right one, but the pic of it looks suspiciously like the one I just got that didn't fit. Can't find any specs on it anywhere. Any info on part # or a replacement is appreciated.
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
LMC lists the hardware kit for your 4x4 250 as the same for a 4x2 250 with duel piston calipers.
Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
The 100/150 4x4 or 4x2 trucks do not use the same part numbers as yours so you may be right they are for the lite duty trucks.
Besides the hardware kit #10 for your truck you will need the bolts #5 if the "wedge" fell out because the bolt holds the wedge from falling out.
If you don't go thru LMC I cant see why you cant get them thru a local parts store.
Dave ----
Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
The 100/150 4x4 or 4x2 trucks do not use the same part numbers as yours so you may be right they are for the lite duty trucks.
Besides the hardware kit #10 for your truck you will need the bolts #5 if the "wedge" fell out because the bolt holds the wedge from falling out.
If you don't go thru LMC I cant see why you cant get them thru a local parts store.
Dave ----
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Thanks so much. The bolt was still in the bracket, but I think I'll order the bolt too like you said. After I took the driver's side off to see exactly what I was missing, the bolt in the driver's side has like a special shoulder under the cap to fit in the indent in the key. The remaining bolt in the passenger side just looks like a hardware store special, which of course is probably why I'm having to find a new key to start with. It's the smallest of things on this truck that are driving me nuts!
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Thanks so much. The bolt was still in the bracket, but I think I'll order the bolt too like you said. After I took the driver's side off to see exactly what I was missing, the bolt in the driver's side has like a special shoulder under the cap to fit in the indent in the key. The remaining bolt in the passenger side just looks like a hardware store special, which of course is probably why I'm having to find a new key to start with. It's the smallest of things on this truck that are driving me nuts!
There was a post not too long ago about this very same thing.
The bolts also like to rust and snap when you need to do a pad change I coat the bolt, the wedge and caliper slides with never seize.
Dave ----
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From: Virginia
I would look at the other side carefully and verify if you do have the right key. The reason I say this, they can be a bear sometimes to get back in correctly. The first time I took one apart and went to put the same parts and caliper back in, I fought it for 15 minutes and could not get it back in place. I finally figured out you have to put the caliper in place, and then grab the caliper with one hand and lift it up against the upper caliper bracket, and also lift it out a little bit till by eye you can see a square cavity form between the caliper and the lower support of the bracket. As soon as you see that quickly stick the key in to get it started. And don't forget the leaf spring that goes in with it, and don't forget to clean the caliper surfaces and the caliper bracket surfaces that the pieces rub on, and then apply never seize or high temp grease. The key area and the slides on the caliper move each time the brake is applied and then released, you will notice there is only a piston on one side of the caliper, but there are two brake pads. For the brake pad opposite the pad to apply, the whole caliper must be able to move.
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