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so I get a call from the shop where I am having some assembley work done. The wife want me to pay to have some of the work done as I just do not have the time to do it. I purchased a complete dbuilt wiring kit for it and they shop was to get the truck put back to tether to the pick it could move under its own power. Everything was great it was due to come back this weekend or Monday. The call was a panic call that there is something wrong with the transmission it kills the engine when it put in gear. I rebuilt the transmission. From a TCM kit I purchased a valve body. I did the initial ban setting wen the transmission was dory. I also have. I have read a ton of posts about what to check and related to trimming vacuum and the like. TC is new not a high rev stall it a close to stock lock up I think 600 or 800 rpm. It’s a 390 preformed cam an intake stock head 1965 year same as the block.
I am going to the shop in the morning. Any suggestion on smiple thing that should be checked. Can the ban be too tight and just cause the engine to stall?
I would start with the obvious and simple things that don't require a transmission teardown first. Is the idle speed just set too low? Can you give it a little extra throttle and keep it running in gear? Have they checked the timing? Vacuum leaks? Does it idle smooth in park/ neutral or is it running rough? I see quite a bit in the engine bay that looks pretty new- is this the first time the truck has been running? Transmission seems to be much lower on the suspect list to me.
Yes I do IT for a living and cars and trucks as a hobby. It funny how everyone goes to the exterm first the motor was running great when I started the project just added the intake and a cam. Change the distributor.when they started it the fisrttimeto break in the am they sad I needed a new fan call BS on that asked gif the got all the air out of it. And asked if it spoke right away or slowly ramped up? And did they check to make sure I did not place the thermostat in backwards? Know it OMG the trannies bad because it stall when you put it in gear. I bet they did not read the distributor install it’s a mechanical advance with a vacuum advance too. From summit the direction say it vacuum advances a few drgrees at lower rpm I notice it blocked off
Went by the shop this morning. They informed me that the torque converter is bad because the truck will go trough all the gear if the rear end is off the ground. They checked the transmission pressures and flows and it all good. So has to be the converter . The truck comes home Monday. I still feel it most likely be a engine issue not beginning to run under load. Before pull the transmission and order anew converter. What I was planing to do is get a vacuum gauge. Place the truck on jack stands try getting it to run in gear and slowly apply the breaks to see if it really stalls the motor. Then adjust the idle rpm to see if it really is an issue with the converter. Also was going to do a compress test the motor sat for a year or two what if I got rust in the cycles and blew the compression
Andy advice would be great. Either way if it is a bone head smiple thing I will be finding a new shop.
Thank for confirming what I already thought I am going to give the truck a good going over. And will post back they have been running it with open headers. My gut tells me it's a vaccum poor spark or timming issue . Or the carb is lean
For me, stalling in gear has almost always been vacuum leaks or low vacuum due to timing altho right now on my truck, it's due to one or both idle circuits being plugged. Again. If you have the mixture screws out more than a couple of turns, you are compensating for something elsewhere.
Agreed. With a brand new intake and distributor, there's just too many potential culprits right there at the top of the engine to ignore.
If you are running without a vacuum advance initially during the testing, I would make sure the timing is adjusted to at least 10, if not more like 12-14 degrees BTDC. That might be excessive for normal running with vacuum connected, but at least it will tell you if you're on to something.
Hate to spray carb cleaner near any new paint, but something to check for vacuum leaks at this point is a must. Even water would do the trick.
TC is new not a high rev stall it a close to stock lock up I think 600 or 800 rpm. Any suggestion on smiple thing that should be checked. Can the ban be too tight and just cause the engine to stall?
Not an expert...maybe this is a dumb statement, but I will put it out there anyway.
A C6 is a non lock up transmission....shouldn't you use a non-lock up torque converter?
It's a good question actually. But I think he was simply using that phrase as terminology to compare where the vehicle started moving. Not that it was actually a lock-up converter.
However, the reason it's a good question is just to make sure!
Didn't there used to be mechanical lock-up converters available for non-lockup transmissions? I thought when locking up first became a thing, they were trying to retrofit them. Maybe I'm thinking of something else though. I haven't had to buy a torque converter for anything in more than 40 years, so lots of stuff probably went right over my head.
It's a good question actually. But I think he was simply using that phrase as terminology to compare where the vehicle started moving. Not that it was actually a lock-up converter.
However, the reason it's a good question is just to make sure!
Didn't there used to be mechanical lock-up converters available for non-lockup transmissions? I thought when locking up first became a thing, they were trying to retrofit them. Maybe I'm thinking of something else though. I haven't had to buy a torque converter for anything in more than 40 years, so lots of stuff probably went right over my head.
Paul
That’s exactally why I put it out there...hoping he will come back and say it begins to STALL at 600 to 800 rpm.
I think I did read somewhere about people installing lock up torque converters in their C6s in hopes of improving economy. But I dont remember if it turned out well for them.
It a boss hog from ACC night stocker stock replacement. The truck has a performer cam in it. I am picking up a vaccum guage and spark feaster on my way home. They did a ****ty job on some of the work the fuel line is basic rubber hose from the tank to the carb I provided a holley electric fuel pump with Ron Frances safety switch and stainless steel braided line.. not installed so on no safety withe and it makes a hammering sound when the pump is on. Just like water hammer in a house so me and the shop owner are going to have not so nice conversation about that. I am sure the issue with stalling out is a vacuum crab or timing issue .The truck goes it to gear and then stalls not that the trans locks and break stops the engine like a manual trans would if the clutche was droped.
my wife was trying to be nice and help the project along by getting me to pay for some of the work to be done. The shop has been good to me and done good work before but this not good.
Be good lesson for my son to learn the meaning of if you really want it done right do yourself.
I let you know what I find out thith the engine side going to get it all dialed in then move backwards.
Also going to call ACC and confirm the selection of the TC I went through with them was correct.
As far as locking TC did not think that was a thing but just wanted to check if pay chance there was some off the wall TC I could orderd. It on the motor side.
Http://www.accperformance.com
Last edited by gstirewalt; Aug 22, 2018 at 09:32 PM.
Reason: Type o
Update! So it moves and goes it gear and dose not stall after a few simple adjustments. I adjusted the Carb idle stetting one side seems to have no effect. tighten the lose header bolts. that all so far and it when in all gears do stall. wanted to pull it around so it in the garage front first. so it backed out i pulled it out and less then 100 feet blow a power steering line.. I provided the correct line and fitting type but they decide to use the standard braided fuel and oil line AN fittings i provided for the fuel and transmission lines . So I have a mess of Power steering fluid to clean up. but the Transmission appears fine. I just need to dial in the motor. It goes in gear good no clucks or knocks. I will be calling the shop in the morning to at least rub their nose it in and let them know they lost another 10K of work on my mustang in paint and other work and not getting any referral when people ask about the truck. At least the have not done any real damage to the truck just power workmanship
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