Hey guys, I haven't been on here in a while. I recently purchased a toy hauler and the old 5.4 is definitely not up to the task, so it's time for a little upgrade. I've never owned a Diesel before, so I have a little learning to do. Most trucks I've found have a million miles on them, are all rusted out, or have just obviously been run into the ground and not maintained. However, I did find one that stands out. It's a 2006 Crew Cab DRW Lariat. It's in awesome condition inside and out, has 180K miles, has head studs done and EGR delete. Also has ball joints, tie rod ends, and alignment done recently. I took it for a short drive the other day and it was like driving a brand new truck. Asking price is $12,900 but I'm sure they will come down a bit if I have cash in hand.

Probably going to go take it for a longer drive tomorrow and give it a better look, so some tips on what else I should be looking for would be awesome. I'll definitely look through the tech folder also.

Here are some pics.

 

Nice looking rig
That said, please get something to monitor data live before you buy any 6.0
As clean as that truck may be, you might be buying an issue you don't know if you buy it and don't know something as simple as the difference between the ECT and the EOT, a critical thing on a 6.0
I would want to know things like FICM output
EOT/ECT delta(should not be over 15, prefer 5 to 10 at cruising)
ICP at hot idle, and WOT
IPR at hot idle, and WOT
Volts output

What color is the coolant?
Any white residue anywhere on the degas bottle?
Does it have an aftermarket oil filter? They are usually taller and have a rounded top, the correct OEM filter has more of a square, shorter cap.

Take the cap off the oil fill, lay the cap on top upside down. It might vibrate off but should not have enough blow by to lift it off.
Pull the dipstick, check the condition of the oil, smell it. Be sure there is no smell of fuel.
Some aftermarket air cleaners are not the greatest. If it has the OEM airbox, great. If not, I would be tempted to pull the tube and be sure the turbo fins are not dusted.

Not trying to scare you into not buying a 6.0.....it's an addicting engine and a helluva mill when it's in good shape..........and not that bad to work in if needed.
There are quite a few good ones left, but to an unsuspecting buyer there are some that are not good.

 

Above advice is spot on --- I'd say buy the truck and put a better engine in it (Cummins). How do I know this ? --- currently own Cummins powered trucks and generators, and Powerstroke 6.7L, 6.4L and 6.0L vehicles. The Cummins stuff is better, period, exclamation point.

 

Besides doing your homework up in the Tech Section (lots of before-you-buy stuff there). Shoot some under-hood pictures and post them up -- these guys are pretty good at spotting red flags off a pict. Any rust to be found? It looks like a 4x4, is it? With all the flood damaged vehicles out there, I'd also check in hidden places say on the frame where it is tough to hit with a water stream, also look under the dash at bare metal pieces for rust... It is a nice looking rig with really nice interior... Oh yeah, does it have a 5th wheel gooseneck hitch, or signs one has been removed?

x2 on getting something to monitor with and doing a COLD start check (of voltages and more) all the way through hard driving and a freeway check of oil to coolant temp difference. Then as soon as you get back pop the hood and take another look... Dual Alts would be nice...

Good luck!
Scott

 

 

Thanks, looks like someone beat me to that one, it was sold. I did find a couple others that look like they might have potential though. They're at dealers, so I won't be able to look at them until Monday. I did pick up a Scangauge II so I'll be able to get some data when I look at them.


Here, this should make you happy

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/d/cummins-swapped-ford-350/6664672183.html

 

I'd rather lose the great first lucky find truck, than get one that you find out all-too-much is wrong about later. It is like buying anything: knowledge IS power - the more you know, the better your decision and negotiating power will be. You'll find the right truck, but getting lucky isn't in ANY used car vocabulary that I communicate in, Cummins powered included!

 

Well, I brought this one home. 2007 F-350 SRW King Ranch, Crew Cab, Long Box. This thing is 99% immaculate inside and out. It's a one owner truck from Montana (Verified by Carfax) with 160,000 miles. Engine is a fresh rebuild by a reputable local diesel shop with ARP studs, EGR delete, and a new OEM oil cooler. It honestly drives like a brand new truck. Took it on a road trip with the family over the weekend, put on 500 miles and averaged 18 mpg. It has a B&W gooseneck hitch installed, but had a bedliner put in over the top of it. I went under the bedliner and pulled out the ball and it looks like it's never been used. Even the factory receiver hitch looks like it's probably only been used a couple times.

 

Did you look at the EOT and ECT values on a hot engine as navistarnut suggested? Even though a new oil cooler was installed, it would be worth getting the information (and posting).

Also, getting a fuel pressure gauge is important. Lots of things can cause low fuel pressure and this can result in ruined injectors (very costly).

Can you verify that the dummy plugs and standpipes were updated and that the STC fitting on the HPOP discharge was also updated? The shop that did the studs and EGR delete should be able to confirm. Also, what EGR delete did they install? Find out what machining was done on the heads and if they verified the final head thickness. Lastly, what head gaskets did they use?

I know this is now "after the fact", but it would still be good to know.

Are the injectors original?
That pic almost looks like a short bed to me. Nice looking truck.

 

I shouldn't probably say this, but when has that ever stopped me?

 

Sweet rig, that is exactly what I would like to find for myself (after a few more kids are out of the house )

Hopefully you have something to read data live.